^ Derek King knows nothing.

 

lol whats up jacob

 

Ok so now I need alittle help with this one.
I would need the whole turbo intake. With the 6 port lim modification.
s5 turbo with ported waste gate.
the downpipe
front cover.
fmic
Standalone.

Would that be about it for the conversion.

 

Oil pedestal sandwich adapter with an NPT fitting for an oil source, and the stock turbo lines. Don't forget that the stock turbo water line is dry when using the 4 port LIM on a 6 port motor, so you'll need to pick it up off the back iron.

 

Ok that works. So it looks like my street ported 6 port is going to be a turbo 6 port.

 

Will the FD Fuel pump be good for this? Also can you port the exhaust manifold? How much psi can you get out of a s5 turbo?

 

You probably don't want to go nuts on the boost because you're going to be running NA rotors, so the chance for detonation will be higher if you lean out. The FD fuel pump is recommended for this, along with larger secondary injectors. I haven't heard of porting the exhaust manifold, but you better have a wicked *** die grinder bit and a lot of time on your hands, that thing's solid. A lot of people recommend porting the wastegate though if you're going to be running plus boost, so that you can dump it off quicker.

 

ok ummmm. Now for my large street ported n/a I have 460cc primaries and everyone is worried that it wont be enough so should i just get the 550cc primaries. This is for the n/a and when i do the turbo can i keep that setup. My secondaries for both would still be the 550cc.

 

you should be fine with 460 cc.

 

I've got a 13 page write up I found on here a while ago for this very same purpose. It even as some pics, if someone wants me to email it let me know.

I myself want to use as many NA components as I can, I'm planning to go with this route:

Custom exhaust manifold to space the turbo right with the NA intake, S5 turbo, downpipe, 550pri/720sec, SAFC2, and a FMIC, running at about 10lbs of boost.

Of course there's other stuff that needs to go with this but its the main idea.

I just figure if you are going to use all the T2 components, why not just swap in a full T2 motor?

 

Because a full T2 motor runs about $1500 used vs $500 in parts, and a 6 port turbocharged will make more HP, stock for stock and be in boost faster because of the higher compression rotors

Primaries are going to be used primarily for idle and driving out of boost - Chris and Ari recommend sticking with the 460cc primaries for idle purposes if you're adjusting the stock computer (SAFC) but with a full standalone, it probably doesn't matter as much. Then add 720cc secondaries so that you won't starve under boost.

Since the block is pretty much the same, it's just easier to use the T2 manifolds instead of mocking up something custom just so you can keep the NA intake manifold.

 

nope, that was at 4 psi on a heatsoaked stock intercooler. Pretty good, others have commented the same also. Without the heatsoaked interheater, it is night and day. Anyways,

https://www.rx7club.com/time-slips-dyno-128/184-5-whp-s4-na-t-6-port-stock-4-psi-677566/


also that is 184.5 rwhp, so around 212 hp at the flywheel.

 

Ok ummm another thing. I have pineapple sleeve inserts. What I was wonder they made those for better air flow and if you take those out it is pointless for a turbo to go through. When the turbo spools up the air/fuel will just be hitting that wall and going out so mainly it wont be getting anywhere. So i was thinking if you can take the pin out of the sleeve and like tach weld or like make it stick to the intake port so it can just flow out.

 

to much work, not worth it. Take the inserts out.

 

but you know what i mean. Is there nothing that can be done because I can make it work.

 

You're forcing air into it - sure you'll have a dead air zone in the outboard corner of the ports the sleeves go into, but it'll fill up with air almost instantly once you're in boost.

 

So I'm going to leave the sleeves and try making it stay somehow.

 

to much work, not worth it. Take the inserts out.


Your turbo will negate all intake flow problems trust me. (that is what the person is trying to say above)

 

Ok I trust you guys but it just seems like it would work.

 

I was going to, then I thought about what would happen if it vibrated itself loose and managed to close itself underneath the intake where I had no way to adjust it or even tell that's what happened.

Vibrates itself closed, all of a sudden I'm running rich on the Wideband, so I start taking gas out to compensate, only since it was just one rotor that was rich, now I'm leaning out the other one, do a nice high throttle run and POW. Detonation on the OTHER rotor because I adjusted it to lean to compensate for the one with the closed off valve.

It just didn't seem worth the risk for an extra 2hp worth of airflow, but that's just me. If you get it to work and stay fine, post pics! I wouldn't use JB weld or anything, because if a chunk of that broke loose and aspirated it wouldn't be a pretty picture.

 

I was thinking of ease of installation. It seems a T2 swap is a much easier route to take, plug and play wise. The main reason I'm going with 6-port-turbo is because my block was just rebuilt earlier this year, and it seems like it will be a fun idea to take on.

The 460 primaries actually makes sense, I'll have to give that some thought since I just want to go piggyback.

 

The sleeves also cause turbulence which consumes some top end hp. With the sleeves, you're just trading high end hp for low end hp. There's no overall gain, if any.

 

well I might do it when the time comes but I just have to find a good route to go with that. So when i get a standalone 460cc primaries is ok right.

 

if you're running a turbo I would suggest getting either 4 x 550 or 2 x 460 , 2 x 720 minimum.

 

But will the 550cc be to much for my large streetported n/a.