RX7freak08

Well I have a thing going on right now with my engine.
I'm doing a
S4 n/a Large Street Ported engine
S4 n/a polished rotors with 0.01 shaved from the sides for high rpm side housing rubing.
Complete Rebuild
Solid Corner Seals
S5 VDI ported intake and secondary throttle body modification and other modification thanks to jeff.
Sonically cleaned 550cc for secondaries and 460cc for primaries.
Cold Air intake.
Removal of all emissions
6 port sleeve inserts also with electric ports
Oil Pressure modification
FD fuel Pump

This is what i will be starting out with at first break it in drive it for about 10,000 miles and then what i want to do. I want to put a S5 stock turbo with ported wastegate on it.

What I will have to do is
Take out the 6 port and electric 6 ports
Modify the lower intake
switch my 460cc primaries to 550ccs
megasquirt
of course the ported waste gate on the S5 stock turbo
Ported exhaust manifold.
2.5 inch downpipe
home made intercooler piping and adapter.

If there is anything else just let me know. I'm open for any opinions.
Thanks for reading.

walken

iTrader: (6)

stock fuel pump and 460 for secondaries or your call will be slower and eat more gas.

you're going to have to do a lot more than just "modify" your lower intake. I tried this and failed. you need ported turbo lower and stock upper manifolds.

go with s4 manifolds unless you are going to fab electronic vdi. closed you'll lose all power past 6k. open and it will take forever to get there.

RX7freak08

Where did you get 460cc injectors for secondaries i'm going to have 550cc for secondaries and I was saying switch out the 460cc primaries for the 550cc.

Well I bet I can modify it I mean aaron cake said to modify the lower intake manifold. Now I can try to buy a t2 lower intake manifold from japan2la (I think that is his name)

Now your saying to put the VDI on a electronic air pump and go off of that. I'll lose power with the VDI closed of course I am. But the turbo will kick in on at 3000 rpm and the VDI kicks on at 5000 so with the VDI wouldn't it be like another turbo just gone off of a vaccum line.

If i'm wrong on any of this let me know.

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

Secondaries only come on at high RPMs (remember all those 3800 rpm brickwall threads? That's due to a problem with the secondaries coming online as fast as they should) I discussed my 6port turbo setup with Chris and Ari at Rx7.com (their shop is right across town) and their idea matched my own. Run the stock 460cc primaries to keep your normal cruising drivability, and run 720cc secondaries to handle the boost when it comes on. Since you already have the 560cc injectors as secondaries, I'd move them down to primaries and still add the 720cc secondaries.
You'll also starve under boost pretty quick if you run the stock fuel pump. They recommended the FD fuel pump which is a direct swap, and not much more expensive than the walbro knockoffs on ebay. They also said they've seen so many problems with Walbro's that they don't even carry them or recommend them.

Remember with NA rotors, you're going to be making NA power and compression even when you're out of boost (minus a bit from the intake restriction of the turbo blades) so you're going to have more power out of boost than the TII's do, AND you're going to get INTO boost quicker because of the higher compression coming out.

Additionally, my personal belief is screw the 6 port actuation. I removed the sleeves entirely. Not for an NA car, but for a turbo car, you're going to be forcing air in anyway, and the sleeves and actuation will just get in the way. Some I've seen have filled in the bottom of the sleeve port with JB Weld to smooth the flow into the 5 and 6 port, but I'd be afraid of it breaking off and aspirating. Once the boost comes in, air is going to fill into that dead zone and new air will skip right over the top of it, so I don't see that the 5 and 6 port actuators are necessary at all on a forced induction car. Mazda apparently agreed or you'd see them on the TII's and FD's.

Aaron Cake had an awesome setup, but he did some things in the interest of peak power that I wouldn't recommend for the increase in difficulty. He reused the stock NA manifolds because they flow better than the TII manifolds, so he can get more power out of them, and that's true. But it's about 3.5 million times easier to just use the stock TII intake manifolds all the way to the filter, because then you can use the stock TII exhaust manifolds. The engine block is almost 100% the same, other than oil and water supply, the front cover oil return and an extra stud hole in the intermediate iron. You'll find it incredibly easy to port a stock TII LIM using your 6 port gasket as a template, bolt on a TII front cover to get the oil return, run an oil filter "sandwich adapter" with a big NPT nipple for your oil supply, pick your water up from the nipple on the rear iron and return it to the back of the water pump.

Besides, electric (s5) AND pneumatic (s4) require provisions in the LIM that the TII LIM doesn't have, which is further argument for getting rid of it in the interest of easy installation. With the NA compression on a stock turbo, you're probably going to be in boost at around 2000 rpms anyway, and with the NA rotors you're ALREADY going to have more torque down low than the TII's came with from the factory WITHOUT 5/6 ports anyway.

RX7freak08

Ok so what do i need to do this swap.

RX7freak08

someone

BklynRX7

I cant find the writeup anymore but someone on nopistons did a great step by step for turboing a 6 port engine. I am doing this same swap over the winter. Ill list what im doing but there are variations you can do, try looking nat aaron cakes writeup on www.aaroncake.net for other ways to run the oil and coolant lines
Parts needed:
tii ecu
tii uim, lim and tb
tii throttle cable
tii turbo
tii exhaust
tii front cover
aftermarket oil filter pedestal
misc lines and fittings

1)replace n/a front cover with tii front cover

2) port tii lim to match n/a gasket and allow air to reach 5/6 ports

3)reroute coolant line going into the BAC valve down tot he turbo then back to the BAC valve

4)install aftermarket oil filter pedestal to allow output an oil line tot he turbo oil input

5) use stock turbo oil return to return oil to the front cover.

6) remove 5/6 port sleeves

7) install tii ecu, safcII, and tii MAP sensor, I also suggest installing the knock sensor unit

after that you can choose to use the stock ic or go front mount

BklynRX7

Also, Alot of people suggest changing the driveline entirely to the tii drivelien because its more durable, but I feel this is optional.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

shouldn't u be working? =P

RX7freak08

Ummm now I heard that it isn't very reliable. Is that true?

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

If tuned correctly, it should be plenty reliable. The biggest problem you're going to have is that you're going to be using 15-20 year old parts, so make sure they're in good shape.

RX7freak08

Ummm now also what about tuning it would it be a problem with tuning would i have to tune it like every week or month or something.

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

Oh no, tune it once, correctly, then you can pretty much leave it alone. Tuning in this case doesn't mean a 'tuneup' like changing plugs and wires like the old piston guys are used to. In this case it's a matter of tuning your standalone ECU or piggyback ECU to add the appropriate amount of fuel for the different throttle settings, rpms, and ignition settings (where applicable) using a wideband o2 sensor with datalogging or a dyno so that you don't go lean, start getting detonation, and blow an apex seal (worst case) or run pig rich, get crappy performance and 7mpg. In most cases you'd only have to retune if changed something on the engine side.

Your best option if you don't have a lot of experience tuning is to set it up so that you KNOW it's rich, and baby it over to a reputable shop in your area that does dyno tuning. They'll charge you about $200-300 and they will set it up correctly. Then, resist the urge to futz with it.

BklynRX7

This is work

RX7freak08

Hey Richter12x2 umm you seem to know alot what your talking about you live dallas texas it isn't far from where i'm at. If I save up about 1000 to 1500 or so bring my car to you will you be able to take care of my transfer.

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

I've just done a lot of research on it. You don't want me to do it for you - my conversion's taken more than a year now, and I still haven't started it yet. I did a lot of other things too, while it was apart, but I've got way too much on my plate at the moment to take on more work on what was supposed to be a hobby. For $1000 or $1500 though, there are a couple of good shops in Dallas that can probably do the work for you, and tune it as well.

Plus, they're probably bonded, so if worst case occurs and they screw something up, you'll be able to take legal action and actually have a chance at recovering damages to your car. I can't even fit another car on my property at the moment.

RX7freak08

Ok that is fine.

RX7freak08

Hey anyone know anything else.

Derek King

iTrader: (2)

instead of dealing with ******* with all the intake manifold **** and tii throttle cable ect.. you could prollly just get an ebay manifold and that would kick the turbo out far enough that the na manifold shouldnt cause you problems. Im running a 6 port turbo with the tii manifolds and even with the port matching it flows worth a ****

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

how do you know this? My port matched s4 6 port turbo put out 184.5 rwhp seems to flow just fine..

Derek King

iTrader: (2)

because they dont match up that great imo. i would rather have a complete s4 na manifold

RX7freak08

Ummm why can't you use a s5 intake.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

haha maybe the s5 is different then the s4 but mine matches up PERFECTLY. Maybe you just have a REALLY bad port job. Mine is smooth and perfect.

mazda13B88

184 rwhp. i thought ur hp would be higher for turbo

Derek King

iTrader: (2)

agreed, maby it has to do with the port match of the manifolds?