S4 w/S5 swap revving on it's own?
#1
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S4 w/S5 swap revving on it's own?
Well let's see I blew my old S4 motor bought an S5 and I swaped the front cover's,omp and injectors ect. Ok well when I start it up its automatically wanting to redline and I don't know what the heck I did wrong? I got a new tps and tried another mass air sensor but still does the same thing. I'm wondering if some wireing could be the issue and I'm wondering if anybody could have the slightest idea on where I should start checking? Oh and my throttle is all the way closed an so are the 2nd set or whatever. So again if anybody could help me out that would be great because I'm starting a new job and this is my only car to drive right now. Thanks.
Oh yeah and also my oil pressure shoots up as far as the little peg will let it go as soon as I turn the key the the on posistion. Could this have anything to do with the revving? Kinda sounds llke something is backwards but I just dunno what?
Oh yeah and also my oil pressure shoots up as far as the little peg will let it go as soon as I turn the key the the on posistion. Could this have anything to do with the revving? Kinda sounds llke something is backwards but I just dunno what?
Last edited by TII_88; 06-17-09 at 02:59 PM. Reason: Forgot to add something.
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Yeah all butterflies are closed and I even re-adjusted my cable and I took it all the way off an started the car and it does the same thing. I'm lost and I bet it's something simple.
#4
Top Down, Boost Up
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Unplug the TPS, BAC & AWS solenoid and start the car. Try different combinations of the 3, as well. See if it does the same thing, or if you get a change. The BAC and AWS are supposed to direct enough air into the manifold so idle goes up to 3k RPM, but I suppose if their duty cycles were increased, they could rev the engine up much higher.
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Well I think I'm goin g to try what rocket88 said and then see where I am after that. I'm hopeing it's something really simple that I'm overlooking. But I'll try that and I'll let ya know how that turns out. Thanks
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Well I disconnected my tps and bac and it went into limp mode and revved between 1 an 2 grand. I am not sure where the aws is located so I didn't disconnect it yet. I'm really need to get my car on the road asap so I have a ride to my new job I'm starting next week. Thanks for the help so far tho and keep commin with idea's cuz every bit helps.
#9
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Well I disconnected my tps and bac and it went into limp mode and revved between 1 an 2 grand. I am not sure where the aws is located so I didn't disconnect it yet. I'm really need to get my car on the road asap so I have a ride to my new job I'm starting next week. Thanks for the help so far tho and keep commin with idea's cuz every bit helps.
The AWS solenoid is on top of the intake manifold, next to the intercooler.
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Well again I don't have an S4 engine so I don't have the AWS then, but the ECU Injectors and are S4. I kept the S5 turbo and manifold along with lim and tim and I put the S4 throttle body on it. Maybe I put the injectors in wrong like the primary's in the secondary's place and vice versa, would that make is rev like this?
#11
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Unless you removed it, S4s and S5s alike both have the AWS solenoids. A turbo will also have the ASV, which is connected to the AWS & is located on the back side of the UIM.
If your injectors are stock, they're all 550cc. You can stick them in wherever you want.
You didn't answer my previous question. Does the engine idle without the TPS plugged in? What does it do if you have it running, then plug the TPS back in? It's possible your TPS adjustment on the TB is out of whack.
If your injectors are stock, they're all 550cc. You can stick them in wherever you want.
You didn't answer my previous question. Does the engine idle without the TPS plugged in? What does it do if you have it running, then plug the TPS back in? It's possible your TPS adjustment on the TB is out of whack.
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Oh ok well I don't think I looked good enough. And ok the injector part helps out thanks. And when I unplugg the TPS it revvs between 1 and 2 grand and did not hold idle. Then I plugged it back in and started the car up and as soon as it started it wanted to revv to high hell again. I don't understand it because it's not getting enough air to do that. Both sets of butterflies are closed. It would have to be a massive vacc leak for that kinda revving am I right? Or mybe a bunk ECU.
#13
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Ok well, it sounds like the TPS is the problem. Adjust the TPS set screw so the plunger is allowed to extend further (ie the TPS shows lower throttle opening). You're going to totally take the TPS out of adjustment, but you can go back and fix it once you can get the car to hold a steady idle under 1k RPM. If you combine the BAC/AWS cold start air with a TPS that is pressed in too far, you can definitely get an engine that wants to rev way too high.
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K but I purchased a brand new TPS and does the same thing. But I'll try adjusting it like u said. With the old TPS is did the same thing and I pressed it all the way shut while a friend started my car an still did the same thing. But yeah I'm hopeing it needa adjusted because I don't feel like dealing with finding an buying a used ECU and it being messed up as well.
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Well it seems that no matter which way I adjust the TPS it does the same thing. I'm thiking the TPS is not the problem so I'm goin to go past that for now and look for vacuum leaks and or other things.
#16
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Try readjusting the throttle plates with a feeler gauge per the FSM. They don't have to be off much to give you a high idle. As long as the TPS is plugged in and working properly, the ECU will limit the idle speed to a maximum of between 1500 and 2000. It will cut fuel at said rpm limit and cause the engine to rev constantly.
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K well I even tried holdin the throttle plates shut while a friend started the car an it still revved up to redline. Got a brand new tps an the problem still remains. This is starting to stump me.
#18
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If you've held the throttle plates closed and the car still overrevs that would indicate that it's still getting air from somewhere.
It must be metered air because if there was a giant leak in the intake, it wouldn't run at all.
If it was a vac leak or the TPS, you'd have an inconsistent/hunting idle, not a solid 4k and higher.
I'd look at the BAC and AWS solenoid again.
It must be metered air because if there was a giant leak in the intake, it wouldn't run at all.
If it was a vac leak or the TPS, you'd have an inconsistent/hunting idle, not a solid 4k and higher.
I'd look at the BAC and AWS solenoid again.
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K but what about after disconnecting the BAC it still does it because thats what I have done an still no change. I dunno whats up but there is AWS on the engine at all but my old S4 has one. I'm going to take a very close look at things again and again untill I fugure sumthing out damnit lol.
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Ok well I started my car with the TPS unplugged the other day so it would idle between 1 and 2 grand and when doing that the car revved out again so I turned it off and seen the one of my injectors were leaking. then I took off tim and seen that it was 2 of them that were leaking. Could this finally have been whats makeing my car revv like crazy?
#21
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yes and no. hard to say about that. but the throttle sensor is probably out or range. adjust it to where you see about 1/4 inch of the screw out the bottom of the threads. this will probably work.
#22
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IDK if this helps but i just recently did a TII swap as well (S4) and the same thing was happening to me. i took the throttle cable off and started it and it idled fine. try that and see what you come up with. after putting it back on it still revved up and i noticed that my throttle cable bracket was so slightly bent and was pulling the throttle plate (im talking less than a hair away from the stopper bar thing) to much and was causing it to rev high. i bent it back towards the manifold and the thing runs like a champ. Just an idea. hope you get her runnin'
~Andrew
~Andrew
#23
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this happened to my car a little bit ago i start it but its an n/a and it goes to 8 grandish and holds plz let me know how/if u fix it
from what i saw in the dark if i put the key to the run position but not running i hear a clicking like a solenoid but if i remove the egi comp fuse the clicking stops
idk if this is something or nothing but is that happening to u 2
and sorry if this doesnt make since im really tired
ill let u know if i find anything tomorrow when i look at it
from what i saw in the dark if i put the key to the run position but not running i hear a clicking like a solenoid but if i remove the egi comp fuse the clicking stops
idk if this is something or nothing but is that happening to u 2
and sorry if this doesnt make since im really tired
ill let u know if i find anything tomorrow when i look at it
#24
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Well I bought new O-Rings for the injectors and now my car revvs to 3 grand so I'm getting somewhere lol. But yeah I'll try adjusting the throttle cable and see if thats makeing it revv that high cus it's running good besides the oil pressure saying it's waaaaay past 114psi. O need to find out why its doin that now? Could that be because the S4 and S5 oil pressure sensors put out different electrical current? I dunno but I'll unplugg it tomorrow and see whats up with it because it's worrying me a lil bit. As long as its not readin no oil pressure its good tho, I hope.
#25
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The whole problem sounds like fuel injector problems. Not stuck injectors etc, but the injectors don't have the right GROMMETS (I did NOT say O'RINGS) on the bottoms of the injectors. The things are leaking AIR and prior to that the leaking O'RINGS were leaking fuel past the lower grommets feeding fuel to the fire.
Series four and series five injectors use different lower GROMMETS.
Plus, take the guys advice somewhere above and leave the throttle cable/cruise cables disconnected from the throttle body. Plus make sure all the nipples on the back of the throttle body are connected up like they're supposed to be.
Series four and series five injectors use different lower GROMMETS.
Plus, take the guys advice somewhere above and leave the throttle cable/cruise cables disconnected from the throttle body. Plus make sure all the nipples on the back of the throttle body are connected up like they're supposed to be.