S4 vs. S5 chassis
04-22-02, 04:15 PM
#1
WTB S5 N/A FC
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: College Station, Tx
Posts: 2,778
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
S4 vs. S5 chassis
Ok, my body is shot. As some of you may know, my baby has around $2k in body damage to fix, so I have decided to just swap my engine and mods into another chassis. I was wondering, which chassis is better? S4 or S5? Would a S4 with a S5 drivetrain be faster, or would it be the other way around? I plan on swappin the front clip and mouldings over if I get a S4, so looks really do not matter.
04-22-02, 04:42 PM
#2
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
There is little difference between the actual body on the two, its more the bolt on support stuff like the metal in the dash assembly, gas tank, and the mouse belts.
Some of the S5 stuff also went cheaper with Mazda trying to keep costs down, and IMO not as good as the S4. Stuff like the power steering became engine speed sensing (rather than the better vehicle speed sense), the sway bar endlinks became plastic, the LSD became a fluid based design and has a retarded engagement.
Given your questions a S4 body with a S5 motor would be faster than anything else (as far as FC models go).
Some of the S5 stuff also went cheaper with Mazda trying to keep costs down, and IMO not as good as the S4. Stuff like the power steering became engine speed sensing (rather than the better vehicle speed sense), the sway bar endlinks became plastic, the LSD became a fluid based design and has a retarded engagement.
Given your questions a S4 body with a S5 motor would be faster than anything else (as far as FC models go).
04-22-02, 05:28 PM
#3
Super Raterhater
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: NY, MA, MI, OR, TX, and now LA or AZ!
Posts: 10,624
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Not to mention the wiring nightmare you're going to run into. You do know you have to change out almost every wire in the car to run a series 4 engine w/series 4 ecu in there right? The harnesses don't plug into each other.
04-23-02, 08:49 AM
#4
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2001
Location: AL
Posts: 770
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bare chassis are the same. Its all the bolt on items that are different. Fender, bumper covers, wiring harness, dash, door panels, etc.........
For convenience only go with the same series as what you have. Generally the series 4 will cost less especially if you find a good chassis with a blown motor.
For convenience only go with the same series as what you have. Generally the series 4 will cost less especially if you find a good chassis with a blown motor.
04-23-02, 08:53 AM
#5
Super Newbie
Find an SE and stick your dash with harness, engine, tranny, ECU, harness, 5 lug stuff, and bumpers on it. Almost as much fun as a TII swap, but still not as fast 
Trending Topics
04-23-02, 10:56 AM
#8
WTB S5 N/A FC
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: College Station, Tx
Posts: 2,778
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Good idea. I might just try that in my new chassis. I have found a white 90 GXL for $700, and a black 90 GXL w/ full suspension upgrades for $800, both with popped engines. Now to steal.....er borrow the $$$. 
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
joel(PA)
Group Buy & Product Dev. FD RX-7
8
10-04-15 06:07 PM
joel(PA)
Race Car Tech
0
10-01-15 10:25 AM