Saturday my friend bought an 87 basket case that was previously swapped with an S4 turbo engine. The guy who did the swap a couple of years ago was another friend of mine then another kid got it and ultimately tore everything off of it except the LIM and exhaust mani/turbo.

I put it all back together, rewired a whole bunch of **** that was messed up, and put new injector pigtails on it.

I can't find an 02 sensor wire anywhere in the harness. Who knows what they've done with it.

We couldn't get any injector drive signal and just for ***** and giggles threw an NA ECU in it. It fired right up. So I took a two hour drive and got a good N332. We plugged it in and it fired right up and ran great.

I shut it off and we put coolant in, the hood on, and cleaned all the crap out of it and it idled for maybe 20 minutes. Then died.

I tried and tried to get it to start. Nothing. I tried the AFM from my car. Still nothing. I was thinking maybe the pigtail is no good.

I want this out of my garage and I'm getting sick of working on it. Any ideas?

 

Did it run out of fuel?

 

Lol. That's almost an insult. It has half tank of gas.

 

Having a half tank of gas and getting fuel aren't necessarily the same thing.

Edit: Not trying to be insulting, I simply question your logic.
The car ran for a few hours, with two different ECUs and then idled for what, twenty minutes?
It doesn't seem most likely that the pigtail is the culprit, it sounds like it stopped getting fuel.

It's certainly easy enough to check before bounding after more esoteric solutions.

 

Did you check the 15 amp Engine fuse (powers fuel pump) plus the two EGI fuses?

 

Well if that's your question, yes. It is definitely getting fuel. I pulled the plugs. It is getting spark too. Sometimes it will fire then die after a couple seconds, like it will with a bad AFM. That's why I tried mine. I'm thinking its not getting a cood connection. I just wanted another point of view on it. But, with both AFMs if you push the flapper with the key on the fuel pump runs. Maybe it just flooded itself. Im going to try it again after work tonight. The old ECU was an Rtek 1.7 and the one I picked up is a regular N332. The car has 1000cc secondaries but stock primaries. It has the old **** style SAFC and was running rich as hell when it was running. The wideband was reading between 10.1 and 11.2

 

Also, since it didn't get revved past 2k the secondaries shouldnt matter anyway

 

And Satch, All the fuses are good.

 

Flooded, low compression. It's too rich.

 

Molotovman, I was kinda thinking that but I'm in denial. haha. I may try some ATF, maybe the seals are sticking. It sat for quite a long time. I hope the bastard will run tonight. I know the guy isnt feeling a rebuild.

 

A rebuild seems a bit extreme and misguided for the scenario. Troubleshooting, discovering, and fixing the true problem will most likely be much less work.

 

Did I suggest a rebuild, no, I did not. I'm failing to see how you have contributed to solving his situation besides providing common sense troubleshooting knowledge.

If he's got low compression and it's super rich at idle like that it will stall and flood easily. He knew what I meant.
I'd start by trying to lean it out.

 

Did you fix this? Between the sensor and SAFC, you should get the idle afr's under control. You can jumper the fuel pump check connector to rule out the AFM. Do you know it's fresh gas in the tank and the filters aren't clogged?

 

If it starts and then dies immediately then the fuel check connector should be jumpered to see if it changes the outcome. There are two places to jumper the check connector. Either at the check connector itself or at the Circuit Opening Relay such that the solid Black wire and the Brown wire on the bottom row of relay plug are jumpered together. Sometimes a wiring snafu can cause the fuel check connector to not work so the relay is usually the best location to make the jumper. Another possibilty for dying immediately after start up would be a vacuum leak.

 

Hey guys I got it running. I checked out my fsm and found the o2 sensor pin at the ecu. 2D. it was a blue wire with a yellow tracer. (the book said GY) I understand that wire colors differ from 86-87 to 88, then S5 can be different all together. Anyway, I found a wire matching the description cut off and taped up in the harness. I tested for continuity and it was good so I wired it up and pulled the plugs and cranked all the **** out. Tossed new plugs in and it fired right up. It ran pretty good, a bit rich though. We're gonna scrap the SAFC and wire in an SAFC-II and hes going to send the good ecu out to Rtek and it should be golden.

 

No, you're right - you didn't. But DarkSlide did.

Good to hear - congrats!