GBone21

I am in the middle this swap and am wondering if I can just use the s5 electrical solenoids (relief, vdi, 6 port, etc..) or do I need to swap the ones from the s4? Also, the 6 port actuators get air from the air tube going to the cat on the s4, I am reusing the s4 LIM so do I still use that source to open them up or do I need to hook them up to a solenoid? These are just my current issues, I have read every post I can find on this but not exactly what I am trying to find out.
thanx for any info

Icemark

I used the S5 ACV on my conversion, because it had the port output for the VDI and aux port solenoids. It bolts right up to the S4 LIM.

If you are keeping the S4 LIM, then you can continue to use the air tube hooked up to the exhaust to run them.

In this case then just use your EGR soleniod (and the appropriate RPM switch driving it) for running the VDI.

GBone21

thank you Mark
I was hoping that you were around.
I am keeping the s4 LIM, everything else (except TB) is going to s5. I am basically begining to bolt it back together right now. Is there anything that I could do at this point to improve power or prevent a costly mistake?
I replaced every hose, rewrapped all wires, cleaned, etc..already

GBone21

Since I am using the s5 spider and solenoids, cant I just use the VDI solenoid? Or is this incorrect? The s5 has no egr solenoid right? But I still will use the summit RPM switch (I dont see yours for sell yet) to activate it right?
As you can tell, I am having some trouble, but I am determined to make this work. Icemark, do you have any helpful notes of your swap?
thank you

slvr7

iTrader: (1)

Hi GBone,

Sure, you can use the VDI solenoid on the S5 rack. I, like Icemark, used an S5 ACV, which has a small nipple on it, to supply the pressurized air for the airpump to the VDI solenoid. With the S4 ACV, an easy way to accomplish the same thing is to drill a small hole in the inlet tube to the ACV, and press fit / epoxy a small hose barb into it. As you know, you'll need a rpm switch to activate the solenoid at around 5200 rpm. Visit the archive if you're interested in building your own for cheap.

Other little things off the top of my head - helps to have an S5 BAC valve with connector, you'll have to extend the two leads from the harness on the driver's side to the pass. side. You might make the S4 BAC work, but the air supply hose nipple may be 'dis-oriented'. Also, th eintake air temp sender needs it's leads lengthened. Basically, if you can use as much S5 stuff (hoses, AWS valve, intake tube) as you can lay your hands on, it's easier.

wozzoom

I think all your questions will be answered here:

http://wozzoo.tripod.com/Info/89Intake.htm

GBone21

thank you slvr7 and wozzoom
I really appreciate it. This info will keep me busy for a couple of nights after work. Please forgive my ignorance, but the "intake tube" from an s5 is different than an s4?
What will I need to do different? I have everything except an intake tube off an s5.
You are talking about AFM to TB right?
thanx again

Icemark

this is what I have came up with for vac routing. It fixes some of the mistakes that carl's write up has:



The yellow line feeds all the air bleeds (including the ones at the oil injectors, and 2ndary fuel injectors).

You might have a slightly different set up, using all the vac spiders, but this should help otherwise.

Drak green is the fuel lines.

Dark blue is the positive pressure lines from the air pump tap/ACV/Air pump.

And yes, you can use the S4 intake tube with the S5 setup.

GBone21

thanx Icemark,
I printed that out a couple of weeks ago, but did not know that that was your doing. On the middle section (with the VDI), what do I do with the 2 vac nipples that are right below secondary injectors? and the 2 that are below those right by the mounting holes? thanx again

mazdapu

This may be common knowledge but the rear housings are different and the intake manifold may touch the housing causing a vacuum leak where it meets the lower intake manifold.

Mark
Mt Peak Automotive

GBone21

I just found a picture of the 4 nipples that are in question, so I think I have this part figured out for now.

mazdapu,
I am pretty sure that I have done all of my grinding of the block, drilling new holes, etc... all figured out. There will be no leak (cough, cough) if all goes as planned.
thank you

drago86

in what way is the rear housing different?

GBone21

Just to make sure that I have it correct, I will plug the tube coming off the exhaust that used to supply the actuators and use the s5 acv on the s4 LIM and hook up the small tube on the acv to the supply tube for the actuators. thanx

GBone21

I have just found the world of the FSM, Icemark, they used yer work!!! LOL j/k, thanx for always helping me (and eveyone) out.