Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

My roomate picked up an 86 RX7 as a winter project. It basically is a shell, as the previous owner gutted everything nonessential. We connected everything possible electronically. Our problem is when we turn the key, the fuel pump doesn't prime, the idiot lights do not turn on, and the starter does not click or turn. The computer does not beep, there are no sounds or clicks of any kind.

Some things worth mentioning: The wiring is intact. There is a large white connector behind the passenger side hatch release that goes to nothing (looks important). Ignition switch seems good because with the key on, the wipers work. All interior fuses and engine fuses are ok.

In the course of writing this, I saw that the starter is dangling on the ground. The wires are hooked up, but the black and yellow wire is not connected.

Please give us some things to check. Thanks in advance.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Fuel pump does not prime unless the fuel check connector is jumpered and key to on or key to on with the AFM flapper perched open.

Alternator White/Black wire needs to have 1 to 3 volts with key to on for idiot lights to come on. You can check for voltage at the alternator but the plug with the W/B wire needs to be connected. You have a choice of back probing the wire, pricking the wire with a needle to measure the voltage off of or you could measure the voltage on the W/B wire at the Alternator warning light relay found at the bottom of the CPU and this plug has 4 wires to it. At this same 4 wire plug if you ground the Yellow/Blue wire the idiot lights should turn on. This would tell you if the Y/L wire to the idiot lights as well as the idiot lights themselves are good.

There is a Black/White wire that runs to the starter solenoid and this particular wire should have voltage on it with the key to start. Does it? Besides the B/W wire the negative ground terminal needs to be connected to the starter as well as the positive cable from the battery

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

The wire at the alt has no voltage with key on. The starter solenoid Does not have voltage with key on. The starter itself does after I reinstalled it. I cannot find the y/b wire at the CPU. Actually I couldn't see the w/b wire there either. You mean the black CPU by the fuse box right?

I also see that the clutch switch is missing. I jumped the connector but nothing changed. I wasn't sure if it had to be jumped or if one of those wires needed grounded or what. Is there another place I can find the y/b wire?

satch

iTrader: (1)

There is voltage on the B/W wire at the starter solenoid w/key to "start" and not "on."

Does the B/W wire at the back of the alternator have voltage w/key to on? Plug can be disconnected to test this particular wire. If it doesn't have voltage w/key to "on" then I suggest you check the 15 amp Engine fuse in the interior fuse box.

I made a mistake regarding the specific location of the Yellow/Blue wire at the CPU as it is in the largest plug connected to the CPU (plug F-04) which is located towards the top of the CPU and not the bottom. Sorry about that. W/B wire is in this same plug.

The interlock switch houses two wires and they are Black/Red and Black/Green. Are these the two wires you jumpered. Also, does this car have the factory alarm.

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

I don't know if the alarm system is intact or not. I have never owned an rx7 with a functional one, so I've never bothered with them. The alarm light lit up for a few seconds when we were messing around in the car, but hasn't since. I know that the alarm can disable the starter. If it may be causing a problem, I'd rather disable it entirely for the time being. I will get back to you about the other things tomorrow, thanks for your help.

satch

iTrader: (1)

If the car has the alarm then the car has the Starter Cut relay which is next to the Main relay. Disconnect the plug from below it and jumper a B/G wire to the B/W wire. There are two B/G wires in this plug. One has voltage w/key to on. You want to jumper the other B/G wire to the B/W wire.

Also, there is a Black/Yellow wire at the CPU (largest plug). This wire plays a role in the idiot lights turning on and should have voltage w/key to on. If it doesn't then check the 7.5 amp Meter fuse.

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

Ok. Neither of the b/g wires have voltage with key on. The b/y Wire has about 50mv with key on. Engine and meter fuses are good.

The clutch switch is nonexistant. The plug for it is there, with wires that are Y/L and B/Y, verified on my other car. The alarm light blinks indefinitely when the key is taken out. WTF....

Also the wire at the back of the alt definitely has no voltage.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Oh boy! Is the weather at least nice? Okay, one thing at a time. The wires you speak of, Y/L and B/Y are for the clutch switch and not the "Interlock switch." The Clutch switch is for the cruise control and not for the purpose of starting the car. The item used for starting the car is the Interlock switch which is located at the top (not low) of the clutch pedal and has a B/G and B/R wire and the B/R wire has voltage with the key to start and not on and the B/G wire would have voltage with the key to start and the pedal depressed. Recheck at the top of the pedal for this switch and associated wires. If it isn't there then the B/R wire from the ignition switch would go directly to the Starter Cut relay and would have voltage with the key to start. Also try the two B/G wires once again with the key to start and with the clutch depressed.

EDIT:

The B/G wire at the Starter Cut relay which is supposed to have voltage w/key to on is powered by the 10 amp Power Steering fuse in the interior fuse box so check the condition of this fuse.

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

Neither of those wires have voltage under either circumstance. The interlock switch is there and connected by the way. B/G wires are a no go again. I appreciate your help by the way. You seem to know exactly what you're talking about.

satch

iTrader: (1)

You mentioned in your initial post that with the key to on the wipers worked? This is how it's suppose to work but could you try it once again to see if it works. Also, try the turn signals w/key to on while you're at it. If they don't work then perhaps the Main fuse in the engine fuse box is blown and that would explain what is happening or more to the point what is not happening.

Also, w/key to on the Main relay should click. Does it? The wire which powers the relay comes from the same B/W wire at the back of the alternator which you said didn't have power so I'm not holding out much hope.

Lastly, when you check for voltage on items under the dash you can't just use any piece of metal for the ground but you have to be selective. Sometimes this means trying different grounding sources.

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

The relay does not click.
The wipers do indeed work with the key on. Um.... Actually they work with the key out of the ignition too. Weird. Also the button indicators on the logicon work with the running lights off and key out.

The main fuse appears ok visually.

I'm retesting wires now, but I figured id tell you about the key issues.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The wipers should only work with the key to on. What about the turn signals though? Try them w/key to on at first and then with no key. Either your ignition switch is problematic or the wipers work with no key because they were rewired to run off the battery bus fuse(s) which have power 24/7 just like the horn, flashers and interior courtesy lights which I suggest you check as well.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Locate the Black wire that leads to the ignition switch located underneath the dash just to the side of the steering column on the side closest to the driver's side door. This fairly thick Black wire is in the same two wire plug as a Black/White wire. Take a pin and stab the heart of this Black wire and take a voltage reading as it has to be there 24/7.

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

Horn and flashers work. I can't test the lights though because I don't have the mirror assembly. Turn signals don't work period. I have an ignition switch I can pull from my parts car if you believe it to be the culprit.

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

I don't see a solid black wire. Here's what I got:

Thick; B/Y, B/W, W/R, R/B, Solid blue
Thin; R/B, B

Also, the b/y and w/r, and then the b/w and bl connect to each other and then loop back to the ignition switch.

satch

iTrader: (1)

You say R/B but I think you mean "B/R." One ignition plug has just a B/R wire in it. This wire should have voltage on it with key to start as this is the wire that leads to the Interlock switch. If it doesn't have voltage w/key to start at the Interlock switch then I guess it won't produce better results if you test it via a pin ***** method but try it any way.

There is an ignition plug that has two wires that are Blue and a B/R wire. The Blue wire is for ACC so with key to ACC the radio if installed should work and the remote mirrors as well. Look at the B/W wire again and disconnect that plug to find the other wire in that plug which should be solid Black. With the plug connected though this B/W wire powers up the IG1 fuses in the interior fuse box which powers the Main relay and B/W wire to the alternator among other items. Pin ***** this wire and w/key to on check for voltage.

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

Problem solved. There are two identical connectors near the ignition.switch, and they were reversed. I connected them correctly and now the ignition functions properly, the starter runs and all is well, thanks for all your help!

satch

iTrader: (1)

Music to my ears and brain as well!

Innovation

iTrader: (1)

I'm glad that was solved. I guess us idiots learned something.