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S4 N/A wont start

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Old 07-24-09, 12:44 PM
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S4 N/A wont start

so i thought it was cuz it had no fuel in it but i just put some in and wont even crank at all but the radio stay on??? and also the guy who i bought it from had added some fuel cut off switch that i removed but i was able to start after i did that but now it wont, Im new to rotary so i dont know what do, could it be flooded?
Old 07-24-09, 07:15 PM
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If it doesn't crank at all then its electrical. Your battery may be dead or the connections to the battery or the starter need attention. It takes far more juice to start your engine than it does to run your radio. If it cranks and doesn't start then its time to look elsewhere.
Old 07-24-09, 07:44 PM
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The radio stays on when you put the key to START, but the starter does not turn over? That's what I read into what you wrote. Is that right?
Old 07-25-09, 02:00 PM
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well i think is electrical cuz i got it crank but still nothing but when i pull the key the radio stays on still and when i bought it had something called RICON???? wired into it that was wired sub and the e fan but i took it out sub and rewired the e fan to a switch. could that be what the problem is ill try to get a pic what the RICON thing looks like
Old 07-25-09, 02:09 PM
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I'd ignore the riceroni and work on the car.

You need to determine if you are getting spark. One cheap fast way is to stare at the tach needle when turning the engine over with the starter. IF the tach needle makes small little tiny bounces, that means the coils are getting power......and the ENGINE fuse is good......and the ECU is getting power.........the CAS wiring is good etc.

So write back as to what the tach needle does when turning the engine over with the starter.

Do you use a digital meter?

If you made sure the key was to OFF and not ACC and the radio still works............whoever installed it wired it to the batt bus or he wired something else in the car and he has wired it so badly that the item he wired up is backfeeding the ACC bus off the BATT bus. Too hard to figure out from here. It's just botched up a bit.

A fifteen year old MAZDA RX-7 is a MECHANICS dream car but someone else's nightmare. Sell it and get the Money for Junkers Gov't programs $4500 free buck on a new car. I'm pretty sure the RX average milage city/hwy is less than 18mpg. That figure applys only to cars that got a average less than 18mpg. And the car has to be registered and running the full prior year before trading up/down.
Old 07-25-09, 02:14 PM
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so when the key is out the radio is on does it turn off after a while or does it just stay on the whole time
Old 07-26-09, 02:41 AM
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ok so i havent been able to get to the rx the last few days cuz its at my dads shop but what happens is the radio will turn on when i try to crank the car but when i pull the key out its stays on but when i put the key back in it shuts off for a few seconds then turns back on???


HAILERS2: im only 19 and dont have any credit to get a new car so i dont think i could do that and ill try to look at the tach when i go try to work on it agian on monday and the guy was a dumbass who i bought it from and didn't know anything and what is ACC? and CAS wiring?
Old 07-26-09, 09:06 AM
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Look at the ignitioin switch. One of the positions is ACC and when the key is in ACC, the radio will be playable but there will be no power going to things like the ECU/coils etc.

If memory serves, to turn everything off you need to turn the key fully anti clockwise then remove the key. If you leave the key in ACC and then remove the key, then the radio can be played.

CAS is the crank angle sensor on the front left side of the engine that looks similar to a distributor on older cars. It determines the timing of the engine/ECU.

IF the tach bounces then the problem is most likely NOT electrical but mechanical. As in fuel etc.

Key to ON, engine OFF, and then jumper the yellow two socket fuel pump check connector. IF you hear the pump working and fuel flowing thru the fuel rails, then it's not a fuel pump problem.
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