Slash261994

iTrader: (1)

I am almost at the end of this project and ready to start driving! Except the car cranks for 5 or 10 seconds before starting, but it always starts. Once it starts the idle is high (around 1500rpm) and if i try to adjust it with the idle ajustment screw the idle starts bouncing between 1000 and 1500. The only way the idle doesnt bounce is with the screw all the way in.

Mlammert

Did you adjust and set the TPS after the car was fully warmed up?
FC3S Pro v2.0:&nbsp TPS adjustment for 1986-1988 RX-7 Turbo II models

Slash261994

iTrader: (1)

I forgot to say that sadly its an NA but yes I did. My temp guage doesnt work but i let the car idle for like 15 mins at 1500 so I would think that would be good.

Slash261994

iTrader: (1)

Bump?

lduley

iTrader: (1)

letting it idle for 15 mins is not hot enough, you need to take it for a half hour drive then adjust it

Slash261994

iTrader: (1)

Ok ill put the temp guage in somewhere else and then do that.

Slash261994

iTrader: (1)

sorry about the long gap. I installed a coolant temp gauge and properly adjusted the tps. I went through and replaced my vacuum lines. still hard to start. its really only on the first start of the day that it takes a few tries of cranking it for 5 or 10 seconds at a time to get it to start. pressing the gas pedal slightly seams to help. after this first start it usually only takes around 2 or 3 seconds of cranking to start but then idles like sh*t.

Slash261994

iTrader: (1)

bump?

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

Any smoke on startup? What color?

Slash261994

iTrader: (1)

Blue smoke on startup that does clear up after some time. I think the injectors may be leaking. I just sent them out to get cleaned so we will see how that goes.

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

Blue smoke is oil right? Maybe you have some oil seepage after it sits from worn oil control rings.

Slash261994

iTrader: (1)

I am premixing a small amount as a security blanket so that what i thought the smoke was from. would the oil control rings make it hard to start and idle poorly tho?

Slash261994

iTrader: (1)

So I got the injectors cleaned and that didnt make a difference at all. Still need to press the pedal a little bit in krder to start it and that is still a whole process

Rotary Alkymist

You should drive it around for a half hour/ hour and then put a timing light on it. Be sure not to run any accessories and also to jump the 2 pin green connector by the battery. Even a few degrees greatly affects the ability to start and idle. Especially if the compression is questionable. Have you checked your compression?

Slash261994

iTrader: (1)

I cant really set the timing because the idle ia hunting and as it revs it changes the timing. I havnt checked my compression but i really don't think thats it because it has plenty of power and starts easier when hot while if it had bad compression it would start harder

Slash261994

iTrader: (1)

If I open the Maf up slightly the car starts right up and idles smoother. also once the thermowax melts the idle gets a little better. does this mean its definitly a vacuum leak?

Slash261994

iTrader: (1)

the car starts right up if you open the maf a little bit. also the idle gets a little bit better after the car warms up sightly.

CryoSignal

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like a vacuum leak to me. By holding the maf open you're almost accounting for the extra air from the leak.

Slash261994

iTrader: (1)

Sorry about the late reply, I fixed the issue and forgot to update the thread. What ended up happening was the AWS solenoid was not present on this engine and I had hooked up the vacuum lines in such a way that the AWS was essentially always on. now the car now idles too low and takes a long time to start but its drivable.