visitor86

My FC S4 1988 rx7's problem, is that the car won't start up right away all the time. You would here a click noise but it won't start the car right away. After 1 through 12 seconds the car would start. Is there a way to make the car start right away after the car has been turned off? If you don't understand what I am trying to say here is a video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mstq4Kx5y60

Another problem is that when starting up the car idle is really high it would go up to 2000 rpm and it would drop to around 1200 rpm. But when the car is driven around after a while it drops to 750 rpm on idle.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C5pgTEZzvVE

satch

iTrader: (1)

The car won't idle at 750 rpm until the car is warmed up so your situation seems to be normal. You're going to have to go through the starting circuit and isolate why the starter doesn't engage when the key is initially turned. If the ignition switch always has constant voltage to it then the problem could be the ignition switch, interlock switch on the clutch, the starter cut relay ( featured on cars w/alarm), and the starter in addition to an intermediate connector located before the starter. If the car was formerly an automatic then there would additional possibilties as well. There's always the possibilty that the battery cables might contribute to this problem as well.

If the Interlock switch has voltage on the Black/Red wire at this two wire switch each and every time the key is turned to start then this rules out the ignition switch as the source of the starting issue (clutch does not need to be depressed to test the B/R wire). If the Black/Green wire at the Interlock switch always has voltage w/key to start "and" clutch depressed then this would rule out the Interlock switch as the culprit. Try testing these two wires as mentioned above and see what results you get.

w0ppe

+1 on satch's response. The electricity isn't going to the start because something is restricting it. The only thing I could add is that if it's a sometimes issue, then you could have cold-solder points even though the relays and switches may look intact.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Probably the starter solenoid.

visitor86

Thanks man, I'll have to take a look at it tomorrow as it is getting dark.

HAILERS2

Does your volt gauge ever work? Not related to the starter click, click, click problem. I just noticed it didn't move when the key was put to any position.

If it works on a sometimes basis.........next time the engine is running, give a gentle rap to the clear plastic cover that covers the meters. Then rap just a bit harder if that did not work and see it the needle will now show movement. If it then moves I'd say the small screws on the back of the gauge that hold it to the circuit board are corroded a touch and just need removing and corrosion removed and screws reinstalled.

Starter click could be several things. Not the clutch interlock switch on the clutch pedal imho........I'd say you can change out the starter solenoid and it will work good for a week maybe but the click will return after a week. See if that happens ......or not. Probably will keep happening. Been there........done that on a couple of my cars. Expensive sometimes. Depends. Solenoids are not priced too high but if you have someone else replace it.......expensive imho.

visitor86

The voltage gauge works inconsistently it just, turns on when it wants to. I tried the rapping part right now, and the voltage meter turns on now. Haha, thanks man.

satch

iTrader: (1)

HAILERS still accepts S&H Green Stamps.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

And Pets.com gift cards.