myersprostatus

iTrader: (2)

alright, so i did a search and still somethings arent very clear.

i put the s5 turbo motor into my 86 gxl, i put all the parts needed to run normal fuel
new omp, front cover, thottle body etc. etc.
now im just down to the wiring, im just a kid so its kind of difficult for me and any info is appreciated. i bypassed the solenoid resistor which is right from what i read, im using the s5 injectors which are high imp, this is correct, yes?
im pretty sure i know what to splice but any information i mean any information that can help i would love. I bought an n332 ecu as well.
i just want to know if im doing everything correctly, right injectors/ecu/etc etc.
im using the s4 n/t harness and if anyone could tell me what i should do to wrap everything up, i really need to get this car running.
someone thats done the swap before can you lay down the law, lolz, ive been working my *** off to get the money for all these parts and its been sitting for months while i wait for funds, i really really really would love to drive this car lol.

again a step process on what to do for wiring etc would be lovely
thanks all and i hope i can final everything out this week from all your guys help
thanks again
-mitch

HKSpoweredFC3S

Well, im just a kid too lol, but mine is a S5 gxl ('90) and i put a S5 JDM Turbo motor and trans in it, but, i bought the n374 ecu (ofcourse the upgraded N370) from the S5 Turbo II's.

I had to extend my harness, it was fairly easy, and its always best to use a turbo harness and a turbo ecu together...so try and find a turbo ecu like atleast a N370...

but, everything should match up, go buy some wires, slice em and dice em. line up w/e needs to whereever.

but i dont know about n/a harness's...def. not anything about S4 N/A harness into a S5 Turbo motor...that can get realy confussing...did your motor not come with a turbo harness??

myersprostatus

iTrader: (2)

it came with the turbo harness but everyone that usually does the swap uses the n/a harness. the n332 is the s4 turbo ecu which is what i needed. the series swap is a big change from doing a straight s5 to s5 swap. im pretty sure on what im doing i just wanna make sure and get some tips and help at the same time.

dang common peoples, noone wants to input on the swap they did? camman, por favor

rx-711

iTrader: (2)

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...o_s5_swap.html

myersprostatus

iTrader: (2)

my situations diff. s5 turbo to s4 non turbo, not to mention extensive wiring that would be alot better explained and understood by a person i can talk to personally on oh lets say an rx7 forum. what a coincidence, thanks though.

a big concern of mine is the injectors. im using high imp injectors with an n332 ecu. from what ive read i need to bypass the solenoid which i did i just want to make sure im supposed to use the high imp injectors and not low imp.

again not to mention some tips i could get from someone who has personally done the swap and kept the na harness. please theres gotta be someone out there

HAILERS

I'm a mere child, but here goes for what it's worth.

For all practical reasons the non turbo na harness will work on your car because you changed the front cover to one with a mechanical OMP. Hopefully a rod from the pump to the throttle to control the omp. If not.......that's a different thread that needs to be started.

As Mom always says, if the harness had a solenoid resistor package, then sohn, you may not just remove that resistor package and think you've taken care of business. She claims that that item, the solenoid resistor package, feeds power to each injector, and if it's left off the harness, then the *air gap* b/t it's plug and the injectors is tooooo big to make a circuit.

She also *claims* (what does she know, she's a gurl*) that since you have a series five motor with high impedence injectors, that you need to finish the job with the solenoid resistor package. She says, "kid, remove the solenoid resistor assy from the car. Cut its haness right in two, as in the middle of the harness. Now take the actual resistor package part of it, and bury it in the back yard where we buried uncle Fred.

Now take the rest of that harness and join ALL FIVE wires together. Either by soldering them together or crimping ALL FIVE together. Then plug the outfit back to the EM harness. Now your injectors have power once more" she said.

The old woman took a picture of what I described above. I'll post it after I take my nap.

myersprostatus

iTrader: (2)

alright sweet, yeah i crimped them together. alright at least now i know im going somewhere, thanks for the post. i liked the story lol

HKSpoweredFC3S

aw okay =] see, i dont know too much about s4 =D

so now i know that a n332 is a turbo s4 ecu lol.

HAILERS

If you used the stock non turbo harness your doing fine. You've taken care of the solneoid resistor issue. Good.

The engine is the same as your non turbo. Has four injectors just like the n/a engine. You just run the secondary injector wires a bit different. You run them on the inboard side of the intake instead of the outboard side. Big deal.

Almost every thing else should work normal. As you read, the BAC plug on the na engine is on the left side of the engine. So you have to lengthen those two wires to reach over to the right side of the engine. Maybe splice in a foot or two more wire. Make sure these two wires do not touch each other (bare wire part of them).

I really don't remember if the TPS wires reached on my car or not. I forget (have not had my nap yet). Some say they will reach. Ok.

For now and until you get the engine idling and running right, ignore the knock sensor. Leave it disconnected for now.

If you do not have power steering, good. If you do have pwr steering, let us know and you need to depin a wire at the ECU. Not a big deal.

Right now the engine should start and run if you have a turbo ECU/boost sensor/afm.
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Oh. I have NOT done a series five turbo engine to a non turbo car. Only a series four Turbo engine to a non turbo car. There will be two problems I did not have on the series four to series four. You have a TPS with a Narrow and a Full range TPS. In other words two tps sensors. You only need to use one. The narrow range one. Soooooo, I know what I'd do. I'd find the three wires on the series five engine that are meant for the narrow range. I'd cut those three wires and put three spade connectors on them and mate them with the series four na TPS harness plug. I'd do zip with the three wires for the Full range TPS .

That is a little vague. It's a general idea. I'd have to figure out which wires on the series five engine are meant for the Narrow range. I probably could do that given enough rope and time.

There's also a solenoid dedicated to the turbo on that rack. It's for boost control. Something needs to happen to that since the N332 can't perform that function. Maybe have to cap off the line going to the turbo. A vacuum type line. I'm not sure of exactly what to do with that. At least not right now.

So I now realize you've some small problems I've not thought about before. Those are not big problems.

The OMP rod to the throttle body is a bit of a problem. Have you addressed that yet?

HAILERS

.Not one of the better jpgs out there, but look at the jpg of the series five TPS plug.

Your looking into the mating half of the plug. This plug is on the pigtail attached to your series five TPS. It has six wires. Three are for the narrow range. Those are the ones you need to mate with your series four harness tps plug.

Your series four tps plug, the one on the EM harness, has three wires and they are the same color as the colors in the jpg attached to this post.

So you could make three *JUMPER WIRES* that connect b/t the two plugs. On one end of each jumper wire you'd have a male terminal. On the other end of each jumper wire you'd have a female terminal. Then you'd just attach each wire to its proper place. Like green/red to green red, white/brown to white brown etc.

I doubt the wire colors on the series five TPS pigtail are those colors. But the series four tps connector on the EM harness will have those colors. Just match them with the picture attached. Make any sense?

myersprostatus

iTrader: (2)

hailers your a life saver, thanks alot for your effort and time you put into helping me. i really do appreciate it, ALOT, sounds pretty legit, ill keep looking into the little ecu prob, shouldnt be to difficult. you saved me alot of time lol. thanks alot again!!!
-mitch

HAILERS

About the only way to overcome no rod going to the OMP from the throttle body, is to either get a series four throttle body or to premix the gas.

Leaving the OMP on, with no rod on it will not harm a thing if you premix.

I re-read some of my posts and...........sometimes even I have a problem trying to figure out what the heck I said. humor