my father is replacing his spark plugs on his 2009 rx8 r3. (spark plugs that were on there stock)
He offered to give me those spark plugs since it's only been used for a month or two.
Will the spark plugs on the rx8 work on my n/a 1987 mazda rx7 s4 engine?

Thank you in advance!

 

Why?

 

^^???What do you mean why? Free spark plugs that are practically brand new? **** yea man, I'm not sure if they work, but if I were you I would just remove my RX-7 spark plugs and compare them visually with the RX-8 plugs. Make sure the tip of the spark plug won't protrude into the combustion chamber and damage the apex seal (which I find very unlikely seeing as how the plugs are coming from another rotary). Anyhow, you could also just compare the part #'s on the plugs.

 

RX-8 plugs are actually a different length. i don't recommend running them.

 

the rx8 trailing plugs are slightly longer, not a good idea.

the leadings will work.

my s4 didn't like them, but try it

 

You guys are some cheap mother *******.... Doesn't it cost like $20 for plugs? Cheap bastards, this is why everyone complains about their FC breaking down, cheap out on the car and it will **** out on you.

 

^^^ So true... It's almost pointless to reply or give info in the 2nd gen section anymore
TwEaK

 

use rx7 spark plugs

 

Get the best of both worlds.

Sell the rx8 plugs on ebay and buy some rx7 plugs. :P

 

I just wanted to know if it works, dang. If the rx-8 plugs worked on an rx7 I would use them since they are the ones that came with the rx8 the one mazda trusted with the rotary release. if they don't fit i was just going to get some high quality ones. so i'm not cheap!

for everyone else thank you. I now know they don't fit and i can go order some new sparks for the rx7

 

the iridiums will work for the leading, like platinum they give off a better spark and last longer but also are a bit more expensive. some ignitions don't like swapping plugs like that though and i have never bothered to test it since the OEM plugs last at least 15k miles and only cost $4 each and if you really want to be cheap then just replace the leading plugs 3 times to 1 pair of trailings since the trailings wear and are utilized much less.

i won't give you a splitfire commercial ad but there isn't much to be gained by replacing with "upgraded" spark plugs. i did always laugh when i saw those ads though..

 

Try 54$. Arround here I couldent find ANY the guy at autozone said "Dude theres no such thing as leading and trailing" And if you sell them, then someone else just uses them... if the problem is used parts why not just stop using them in general?

I have my recept i might go look for it...

 

if you paid $54 for OEM ngk plugs then you should ask for lube next time.

 

Hahaha I did, when you need something you have to pay.... even at local shops they were 10 Bucks and didnt have trailing

 

I would like to see the receipt please. What is the tax for being stupid like 400%?

 

So... What are you saying? The problem isn't used parts, the problem is reusing spark plugs. Its not like its an exhaust system, or coilovers, or a motor. This is ******* spark plugs, they're cheap and should be replaced as they become worn with NEW, would you change your oil with used oil? Didn't think so... And get with the program dude, you can find almost any part online.

 

seriously $54 is crazy.. i pay about $7.50 a plug at Advance Auto they never have it in stock but they can usually get it in the following day.. this thread is pointless already...

when it comes to maint. stuff everything should be replaced with new or if not something better..people always then wonder and post why is my motor running like crap? or i think i blew my motor any idea why?

TwEaK

 

hahahaha get used to it!

 

alot of people on here are straight up ******** but are very knolegable also, so put up with it and learn alot!!

 

Hey guys I have a 1994 Cutlass and an '83 GSL with a mildly souped up 12a. Anyhow I was changing my oil and plugs and brake fluid on the Cutlass and decided to re-use all that stuff on the Rex but after only 150 miles my motor blew and I couldn't stop so I caused a 5 car pile-up on the highway. Any idea why?

 

Yeah man,

You probably didn't have the oil tightened down to the factory torque setting.

That and after you do a big maintenance like that you need to re-brake in the car, i bet you didn't spend the first 73 of those 150 miles at 1565rpm like it suggests in the haynes manual.

 

Nah I always keep my rotary around 9500 rpm so I don't get carbon buildup. This particular day I was only running about 8700 in third because there was construction so I was going about 70. And my brakes are brand new from the junkyard off of an 81 LE so I should be ok there.

 

Good idea about the carbon build up, have you been using organic cooking oil as a fuel additive? it is supposed to work on the pistons through osmosis keeping everything well lubricated. Also what exactly went wrong with your car? I can help you get to the bottom of this.

And I wouldent use the bakes off a 81 LE unless you are talking about the Ford F250 LE, then you are doing it right. I think everything should be upgraded to truck parts when you are running so much power.

 

I haven't heard of using cooking oil in the fuel, I just run diesel because it is an oil based fuel in the first place. Anyway what happened was after I did my oil change and all I was cruising along in third on the highway like normal, getting *** out around the slightest corners trying to keep slipping the clutch and keep the RPM to 9000 or so when the motor started knocking. I wound it up a bit higher and all of a sudden it made a loud clunk and I tried to stop so I hit the brakes but they went to the floor and were soft and then I was going like 70 so I went into oncoming traffic and crashed.
Maybe it's because I was drifting too hard and forgot to heel and toe?

 

You should NEVER and I mean NEVER remove your heel from the brake, these are hard core performance cars built by an elite team of professional drifters who were also engineers and they did not intend them to be sold to the general public.

That knocking noise was probably your counter steer alarm. It warns you as you are entering over drift. You could have used a weight transfer method to correct, but it would have been difficult as I don't think the 83 came with a telescoping gyro, that and we all know these cars have way oo much torque to control responsibly.

I have heard about great success coming from diesel conversions. I myself use a 73/27 blend of diesel and 114octane.