nizzan1984

Ok so I was trying to start my rx7 last week, and it wouldn't turn over at all. I threw jumper cables on the battery, but it still wouldn't even crank at all. I got a new battery today thinking that was the problem, but it's still doing the same thing. I also noticed that the side markers/ brake lights light up, but the headlights wont pop up.

The car ran perfectly fine a month ago until the alternator belt snapped. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

-Alex

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

A little more info would help.
Does it click when you turn the key?
Is the starter getting 12v when you turn the key?

707Stang

def, need more info. silly question but does the engine turn by hand?

nizzan1984

The starter doesn't click at all. I would imagine the starter is getting 12v because I was using a new battery on jumper cables yesterday.

Im thinking a fuse could have blown when the alternator belt snapped?

importtuner137

In order to be sure the starter is getting voltage you need to at least make sure that the wiring is connected. Make sure that a wire isn't improperly grounded ect.

Go48

iTrader: (7)

Assuming you have a manual transmission, check the interlock switch on the clutch pedal. You are stepping on the clutch pedal when attempting to start the car, right?

If you need to know more about that switch, get a copy of the service manual at: http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual

Otherwise, as already suggested, check the grounds.

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

If you think it may be a fuse, why are you asking instead of checking?

I sound like a dick I'm sure, but nobody here can check that for you, and I can only assume your eyes work.

HAILERS

Main fuse in the engine bay is the only fuse that can make the starter not .........spin.

Jack the car up....................shifter in neutral.............grab a screwdriver...........pull the small elect plug off it's blade on the starter solenoid.......................bridge the gap b/t the small blade and the large cable on the solenoid.................starter will spin. If it does, then the starter is not the problem but the wiring to the starter from the ignition switch is not good. See the post above that referred to the clutch interlock switch at the very top of the clutch pedal.

nizzan1984

Ok thanks for all of the suggestions guys, I will try everything you all said tomorrow when I go to work on the car.

calpatriot

you can check pretty easily to see if voltage is getting to the starter. With the lights on, do they dim when you try to engage the starter? If they do, the starter is pulling current (causing a voltage drop), and thus your wiring is likely ok. Problem would then be something blocking the engine from turning over, i.e. carbon lock, internal damage, etc.

If the lights don't dim, it is likely there is an open circuit somewhere between the ignition switch and the starter (or even in the starter itself). Possibilities include a blown fuse, bad wiring, bad relay, etc.

If you are not hearing a click when you turn the key to start, it is likely that the lights won't dim either (starter not drawing current)...

nizzan1984

Ok guys I really think it could have to do with the factory security system. When the battery is hooked up even with the doors closed, the alarm light on the dash is always on and when the doors are closed, the door light is on. Nothing in the car will work except for the brake lights, side markers, dashboard lights (when lights are turned on) and the dome light. Everything else in the car wont work. Is there some way I can disconnect the factory alarm?

Oh, and the alarm light stays on even if the doors are locked or unlocked.

HAILERS

ALL the items you listed are on the BATTERY bus and prove nothing much at all.

To PROVE the ignition switch is getting power, turn the key to ON. Then turn the left/right turn signals on and see if they work. IF they work, then the igniton switch is getting power. IF they don't work, then the ignition switch is not getting power. Also try the wipers. IF they don't work, the problem is no powe at the ignition switch.

The ignition switch when turned to ON, feeds the other busses in the interior fuse box that ARE NOT on the battery bus. Those other busses feed power to the fuel pump, ECU, injectors and the other worth while things on a RX.

nizzan1984

Ok I see what your saying. If the ignition switch isn't getting power, what are the possible reasons as to why it isn't getting power?

Sorry for all the questions, its just that I live 30 mins away from where I keep the 7 so I want to make sure I gather up every bit of info I can to solve the problem.

satch

iTrader: (1)

100 amp main fuse supplies voltage to B/W wire from connector "X01" which transitions into a B wire via connector "X04." This Black wire goes to your ignition switch. The ignition switch then passes voltage to the B/L wire with the key turned to start.The B/L wire goes to the starter cut relay located by the main relay. At this relay the voltage is passed onto the B/G wire "if" the relay receives a ground source from the theft contol system within the CPU from the LG/Y wire and the relay also receives voltage from the B/G wire that comes from connector "X05". X05 gets the voltage from the O/W wire as it passes through the antenna. The ignition switch has a connector "X03" which is where the "O/W" wire comes from (as it then goes to the antenna and so on). If all of this occurs properly then the B/G wire passes the voltage to the starter interlock switch which then passes the voltage to the B/R wire which then arrives at the starter to trigger it to turn over so as to start the car.

http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/S5wiring.pdf

HAILERS

First thing to do when you go to work on the car again is........................key to ON. Turn wipers on and or turn the turn signals to left or right. IF any of these items work, then the ignition switch is getting power and that is not the problem.

IF those items don't work, then look at the jpg attached and look at the black connector with one single black wire. Now go to your car and make sure yours is connected together. And or look at the MAIN fuse in the engine bay (80a series four, 100 amps other cars) and make sure it's good; It's held in the engine bay fuse box with two BOLTS. One on the front of the box and one on the rear of the box.

If those quick checks don't show a problem, then follow the START circuit in the jpg on the post above this one and remember what the other posters mentioned abou the clutch interlock switch.

IF your car has no Theft control unit, then the start circuit will not have the Starter Cut Relay shown in some diagrams.

Probably just blew the Main Fuse though when you get down to it.

EDIT: I forgot about your post mentioning the THEFT light. So you do have a Starter Cut Relay and that relay if pulled in by the THEFT control unit, would keep the starter from getting the trigger voltage. That's why that relay exists....to keep the engine from turning over when someone tries to steal it. Sorry, I'm too lazy to erase or cut my other words above.

nizzan1984

Well I actually had a used 100A fuse lying around, so I threw it in and hooked the battery up. The second I put the positive cable on the battery, it blew. I bought a new one so im going to check all the grounds today, and see what happens.

calpatriot

Improving your grounds wont solve that problem. It sounds like you have a circuit shorted to ground. It takes a lot of current to blow a 100a fuse (something more than 100a...). I would caution you against hooking up the battery to the system again until you find and correct the short. Without doing that, you are literally playing with fire.

To isolate the short you will need to disconnect the circuits downstream of the blown fuse, and check the continuity to ground from the 100a fuse pins until you can isolate which circuit contains the short.

The snapped alternator belt may have been a symptom of the short--the system tried to draw too much current from the alternator, and the belt was the weak link...maybe.

Putting 100a through the circuit again (even for the short time it takes to blow the fuse) is likely to cause more damage to insulation, wiring, etc, and my even start a fire. Use something of very low amperage to check the continuity.

skullzaflare

possibly the alternator burnt up the regulator and hot grounded to the motor?

nizzan1984

The alternator belt snapped because it was loose from the previous owner for some reason. The car ran perfectly fine before the belt snapped, so thats why this is such a mystery to me. Could it be a possibility that the used fuse that I had just blew because it was old?

Im going out there today, and im checking all of the wires so hopefully I will find something.

2Fierce

iTrader: (7)

Any solutions yet? I got the same problem!!!

nizzan1984

I gave up for awhile because I still couldn't find the problem. I am going back this week sometime to give it another shot.

The last time I was there, I disconnected the alternator, and the fuse didn't blow. Im guessing the problem is either the starter or the ground wire. I will let you know when I find out, because those 100A fuses aren't cheap!

calpatriot

If the fues blew when the alternator was in the circuit, but not when it is out of the circuit, that would suggest that the alternator, or its wiring and or connectors, are the source of the short. Pull the alternator and have it bench checked.

nizzan1984

Thats the funny part, I bought a new alternator and it blew again. I just need to spend more time checking all the wires.

Chrisandshirley Ritchie

We have a 1991 Mazda RX7 5 speed convertible. We tried to start the car and it won't start. There's no click or anything. Nothing works on the car except the headlights and the horn. It won't make any other noises and none of the lights come on inside the car. The windows won't roll up/down. All the fuses look good and the battery has 12v. Anyone have any ideas about what's going on with it?