RX7 died when running, won't start
06-01-20, 10:08 AM
#26
It would idle like this on a cold start and smooth out just a bit when warm, not sure if this sounds abnormal or not. Some people say it sounds rough, others say it's fine.
https://youtu.be/z6_dMhIA_cM
https://youtu.be/z6_dMhIA_cM
Yes a fuel pump can overheat if not submerged/intaking gas which running. I have personally experienced a catastrophic failure in a car being serviced with the key left on, car jacked up, and little/no fuel. However as setup stock, the fuel pump will not run with key to ON; the car must be cranking or running, if everything is working as intended.
06-01-20, 10:38 AM
#27
Full Member
Thread Starter
Just sounds like a slightly lumpy/hunting idle to me...on a modified car, that doesn't surprise me. So I'm in the camp of that's not terribly concerning.
Which issue exactly are you referring to? We've talked about a few now. The AFM can certainly cause the car to not run right, and as mentioned earlier the AFM triggers the fuel pump when running.
Yes a fuel pump can overheat if not submerged/intaking gas which running. I have personally experienced a catastrophic failure in a car being serviced with the key left on, car jacked up, and little/no fuel. However as setup stock, the fuel pump will not run with key to ON; the car must be cranking or running, if everything is working as intended.
Which issue exactly are you referring to? We've talked about a few now. The AFM can certainly cause the car to not run right, and as mentioned earlier the AFM triggers the fuel pump when running.
Yes a fuel pump can overheat if not submerged/intaking gas which running. I have personally experienced a catastrophic failure in a car being serviced with the key left on, car jacked up, and little/no fuel. However as setup stock, the fuel pump will not run with key to ON; the car must be cranking or running, if everything is working as intended.
I am not entirely sure how low I was on gas when it died on me, but I suspect it was on it's last legs before running out. I hear the pump running when I jump that jumper by the AFM, so is there another way that I can test it to ensure it's still running strong? I think it's odd that the car came with three extra junk AFM's in the rear.
06-01-20, 10:56 AM
#28
Ok, good to hear on the idle. It stays around 750 - 800 when it idled before (after warm). On a cold start the car would have a problem idling and needed me to press the gas for about a minute or maybe two depending on how cold it is outside. Then it would hold an idle and not stall.
I am not entirely sure how low I was on gas when it died on me, but I suspect it was on it's last legs before running out. I hear the pump running when I jump that jumper by the AFM, so is there another way that I can test it to ensure it's still running strong? I think it's odd that the car came with three extra junk AFM's in the rear.
I am not entirely sure how low I was on gas when it died on me, but I suspect it was on it's last legs before running out. I hear the pump running when I jump that jumper by the AFM, so is there another way that I can test it to ensure it's still running strong? I think it's odd that the car came with three extra junk AFM's in the rear.
A fuel pressure test will tell you if the pump is healthy or not. You can "rent" a kit for free from Autozone.
Check out the fuel section of the FSM, starting on page 66:
https://rotaryheads.com/PDF/2nd_gen/...systems_na.pdf
If you just want to check the pump itself, pressure should be 64-85.3psi.
Normally most people check the regulated pressure, which is expected to be 34.1-39.8psi.
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He_162 (06-01-20)
06-01-20, 12:48 PM
#29
Full Member
Thread Starter
The cold start issue you describe it totally normal for a car that has had the "emissions" deleted. I do the same thing, just hold the throttle for a bit depending on how cold it is.
A fuel pressure test will tell you if the pump is healthy or not. You can "rent" a kit for free from Autozone.
Check out the fuel section of the FSM, starting on page 66:
https://rotaryheads.com/PDF/2nd_gen/...systems_na.pdf
If you just want to check the pump itself, pressure should be 64-85.3psi.
Normally most people check the regulated pressure, which is expected to be 34.1-39.8psi.
A fuel pressure test will tell you if the pump is healthy or not. You can "rent" a kit for free from Autozone.
Check out the fuel section of the FSM, starting on page 66:
https://rotaryheads.com/PDF/2nd_gen/...systems_na.pdf
If you just want to check the pump itself, pressure should be 64-85.3psi.
Normally most people check the regulated pressure, which is expected to be 34.1-39.8psi.
06-01-20, 07:50 PM
#30
Full Member
Thread Starter
Battery was disconnected overnight, I forgot to plug the AFM in when I was cranking it yesterday. I plugged it in now, and when I went to crank I got a sputter like it wanted to start and then it died again. Also, when I move key to "on" position, the dash still shows 0 voltage like the battery isn't connected. I tested with my multi meter and it was showing it was pretty close to fully charged. After that sputter I couldn't get it to want to start again, and the trailing plugs were still dry. Not sure if any of this is helpful info, hopefully gonna get to autozone tomorrow to borrow a fuel pressure test kit.
06-01-20, 10:49 PM
#31
Full Member
Thread Starter
So I got a new fuel pump instead of just buying the tester because I figured it would be just as easy to switch it out and then test it than to use the tester. I got the pump assembly out and I made sure to grind down the side of the ground where it attaches to the assembly. I then went and did the same to any and all places where the car has a ground that I could find and went for start, it sputtered and stalled again. I pulled the plugs and found it to be flooded. I de-flooded and then went for start and she came roaring to life, didn't want to idle and was a lot more sensitive to throttle than before. After two minutes it idled at 1500, and another 5- 7 minutes and it dropped down to 1000 rpms and idled there. Took it around the parking lot and seemed to sound and run right. Idles smoother as well. Will flush coolant and do an oil change tomorrow and respond back here to let y'all know how it's doing.
-edit-
My guess is that the problem was a combination of a bad trailing coil, weak pump, and bad grounds in multiple places on the vehicle that led to it finally burning out the pump, killing one leading coil, and also the AFM to fuel pump wire was corroded.
-edit-
My guess is that the problem was a combination of a bad trailing coil, weak pump, and bad grounds in multiple places on the vehicle that led to it finally burning out the pump, killing one leading coil, and also the AFM to fuel pump wire was corroded.
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DC5Daniel (06-02-20)
06-02-20, 07:20 AM
#32
So I got a new fuel pump instead of just buying the tester because I figured it would be just as easy to switch it out and then test it than to use the tester. I got the pump assembly out and I made sure to grind down the side of the ground where it attaches to the assembly. I then went and did the same to any and all places where the car has a ground that I could find and went for start, it sputtered and stalled again. I pulled the plugs and found it to be flooded. I de-flooded and then went for start and she came roaring to life, didn't want to idle and was a lot more sensitive to throttle than before. After two minutes it idled at 1500, and another 5- 7 minutes and it dropped down to 1000 rpms and idled there. Took it around the parking lot and seemed to sound and run right. Idles smoother as well. Will flush coolant and do an oil change tomorrow and respond back here to let y'all know how it's doing.
-edit-
My guess is that the problem was a combination of a bad trailing coil, weak pump, and bad grounds in multiple places on the vehicle that led to it finally burning out the pump, killing one leading coil, and also the AFM to fuel pump wire was corroded.
-edit-
My guess is that the problem was a combination of a bad trailing coil, weak pump, and bad grounds in multiple places on the vehicle that led to it finally burning out the pump, killing one leading coil, and also the AFM to fuel pump wire was corroded.
The following users liked this post:
He_162 (06-02-20)
The following users liked this post:
He_162 (06-02-20)
06-12-20, 06:25 AM
#34
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'88 convertible - bone stock. Had similar problem...not restarting when hot....happened intermittently ..would sometimes restart after cooling down for 30-60 minutes...finally just died and would not start at all. ...found that crank sensor was faulty...replaced and so-far-so-good.
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