My 88 GXL non-turbo refuses to start. Here's everything I've checked so far..

1. Ignition: AFM, crank angle sensor, main relay, circuit opening relay, all seem ok. Spark plugs are new NGK. Have spark at leading coil. Should there be spark at trailing coil as well? (I couldn't see any)

2. Fuel system seems to be working overtime. I realize the rx has flooding problems but it should at least attempt to start when the injector fuse is removed, correct?

3. I checked the water thermo sensor near water pump. Resistance did not come close to recommended book values. Will this cause a no start situation? Disconnecting it didn't help.


I haven't tried the ATF trick, nor have I checked compression. However, the car was running like a top before the flooding issue. Now it just refuses to start. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

 

What exactly is it doing?? Is it cranking?? The fuse that needs to be removed is the EGI fuse, then crank for like 10 seconds, then replace and try to start. THis is if it is flooded of course. Give us a little more info so we know exactly what the problem is.

 

I've tried removing the EGI fuse, with no luck.

If I crank it continuously (20 secs or more) then it seems to 'skip' for a split second, in an attempt to start.
Of course, that's with the EGI connected. If you look at my original post, you'll see everything i've checked already.

Another question..could the oil metering pump also prevent the engine from starting?

 

my car floods alot usually, what i do is leave the EGI fuse in and push the pedal to the floor causes the fuel pump to shut off ( says in the owners manual to start it this way i think) helps starting sometimes and you dont have to pop the hood but sometimes it can take a while sometimes ive had to crank up to 15 seconds but then agian my car has low compression

 

oh btw i meant the gas pedal.

 

Im not 100% sure, but I think that it will start with the OPM not working.....although i wouldnt want it to Hmm...Im kinda at a loss....maybe get a compression check. I wouldnt go dumping ATF in it till your sure of the problem. Heres something yuo can try:
remove the 2 leading plugs, then crank the engine. If it sounds very smooth and steady, like evenly spaced *poofs*, then you are getting at least some compression at all three faces. If it sounds uneven, ( Ive heard it refeered to as a galloping horse), the one of your seals is gone, and your getting no compression. Someone else back me up here as I may have left something out .

 

Oh and ImportBoi22: I think thats only on a S5 that the pedal to the floor shuts off fuel, its different on a S4.

 

oh damn s4's hehe i'd try it anyways. I dont know much about s4's but im trying to help in anyway possible thanks for tellin me i know what its like having a broken FC

 

Lead plugs firing is all you need. Their the bottom plugs coming from the front coil assy.

Yup. Don't do the foot to the floor. Thats only applicable to 89 and newer. Will cause flooding on series four.

Oil metering pump won't effect it in the least on a series four.

Strongly suggest buying two Lead plugs. Pull the ones you have. Pull the EGI fuse. Spin the engine for about thirty seconds. Put the plugs in.

Now the part that about half the folk don't approve. Go to the left rear strut tower and find the fuel pump plug under the carpet on the aft side of the strut tower. Disconnect it. Buy some Starting fluid. With the fuse back in and the plugs in, spray just for one to two seconds into the intake before the filter assy.

Get in the car, hold the pedal all the way down. Crank the engine.

What happened???? Did it go varoom for a monent? Or did it just crank? Just crank. Spray one more time for one to two seconds and try again.


If it went varoom. Sray again for one to two seconds max and try again. If it goes varoom, turn the key off. REconnect the fuel pump plug. Spray for a second or two, and start the car.

Let us know what happen. Also tell us if someone has been moving the crank angle sensor around or any other thing similar.

The caution about starter fluid. If used as described above no harm will come to the car. But if you use starter fluid in a continuous spraying to keep the car running, you'll get knock. Knock isn't good for the engine. Just don't continuously spray and all will be well.

 

push start that bitch !!

 

It could be really really flooded.

that happened to me before and pulling the fuse wouldnt help

what i did was pull the egi fuse out. push gas pedal to floor and crank it for like 15 seconds.
then let it sit for like 10 or so minutes letting the starter motor cool down. then cranked it again and so on.

I did that like 4-6 times then put the fuse back in. i tried starting it and it started but was sputtering a bit at lower rpms so i added gas and went right up to 1500 rpm and stayed there while massive amounts of white smoke came out the back of my car.
let the car sit there for 5 or so minutes idling turned it off
after that it started fine.
I recommend getting a fuel cutoff switch now everytime my car wont i flip it on and it starts right up then flip it back.
gl luck anyways hope my way helps lot easier then the other ways these ppl r thinking off

 

Hailers ...You rock you always have an answer and I've never read any smartass comments from you, like some others Thanks again from me and all other newbees

 

I just picked up my car a little over a week ago, so I know little to nothing about it. It's an 88GXL. I had new plugs and wires installed.

After a day it failed to start. It cranks but I smell a lot of fuel. Could the tricks in the above posts work for me as well? If so what and wherre is the "EGI Fuse"?


Mario

 

The EGI fuse is in the fuse box in the engine bay. Its on the drivers side, its a small black fuse box about 1" wide and 6" long.

 

I have an 88 turbo2 and when the engine is hot it won't start it will just crank, i can push start it too!?!?
will any of the above work for me?

 

Mayebe you have a hot starter. Get the starter checked or replace it. It is also possible it could be flooding.

 

Yes. My TII has hot starting issues as well. I try to park on a slight grade and just bump start it if it won't start with the starter. You be surprised how little of an incline you need to bump start your car. My car will start most of the time when it's hot if I hold the gas pedal to the floor while cranking.
I need to yank the primaries out and send them away to get balanced and blueprinted. I have very good compression, 120 PSI on both rotors, so I'm hoping it's the injectors flooding it out. I am installing a fuel cut switch for a temporary fix ...... I hate band-aid fixes.

 

Thanks Rxmfn7.


jimmyv13, will a fuel cut off switch solve the flooding problem for now? At what point will you need to use it?

Thanks,
Mario

 

Yeah, it will TEMPORARILY HELP you start your car, but it will not FIX the problem.

I had a cut switch in my NA, and I used it as follows:
To start car,make sure cut switch is in the off position:
1. Turn key to acc.
2. Pray to God of your choice that your car will start.(proper RX-7 etiquette ).
3. Turn key to engage starter.
4. Wait 2 seconds and flip cut switch to on.

It started EVERY time using this method.

When turning off car, I used the cut switch.

I sold the car before I could investigate the flooding problem any further.