So I read up on swapping the Rx-8 trans onto the FC? Is it a direct bolt up? I know people spoke about having to make custom trans mounts but I never saw anything on an adapter plate or anything. Along with that, people complained that the Rx-8 6-speed was shorter and the shifter was too far forward, but could be fixed through replacing the Rx-8 tailshaft housing with the miata tailshaft housing. Thanks for any pointers or explanations on things, I want to get a closer gear ratio on my TII and this was a way I read about

 

I don't believe you need an adapter plate. Most 13B engines use the same trans mounting pattern. In addition to needing custom mounts, and the shifter being farther forward, the driveshaft will not be a bolt in affair. Your N/A driveshaft has a different seal diameter than the RX8. The automatic and Turbo driveshafts will mate to the RX8 trans, but will be the wrong length. An auto driveshaft will be too short, and the T2 driveshaft will be too long. Short of just having one made, best bet would be to get a T2 driveshaft, chop out a section of it and reweld and balance it. You'll also need to slot the mounting flange holes on the T2 driveshaft as it has a larger bolt pattern than the N/A diff.

Of course, then you have to worry about the clutch. The RX8 shares the spline pattern with a T2. I believe the N/A one is smaller, so you'll likely need to swap out the flywheel and clutch for T2 ones (of the same series as your current engine).

other things to consider as well....The wiring will need to be redone for the reverse lights, and you'll loose the speedeometer cable hookup.

The good news is that the RX8 slave cylinder bolts right up to the FC slave flex hose.

maybe some good reference material for you can be seen here

 

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-gene...ed-fc-1143531/

i think there is some combination of shifter parts that can move the shifter back, 90% sure that its not the whole tail housing though.

 

https://www.pineappleracing.com/swap...eedintofc.aspx

You don't need an adapter plate for mounting the transmission to the engine, but you need to do something to make the shifter fit (otherwise it's in your radio bezel), you need to figure out mounts and the driveshaft.
Oh, and also the clutch slave, but Pineapple Racing has you covered for that as well as the shifter.

Another thing to consider is finding an 09+ transmission, https://mazdatrix.com/product/trans-...on-rx8-manual/, due to it being much stronger than the 04-08.

Good luck!

 

The link listed for Pineapple racing is actually the swap kit I'm using in my car (I was the beta tester). His kit provides a shifter adapter, and the transmission crossmember mount required to install the Rx8 S2 transmission in an FC. You will need a T2/Rx8 clutch and flywheel, an RX8 Starter, new slave cylinder (offered by Pineapple), and a different driveshaft. IF you had a driveshaft made to install a T2 transmission into your NA rear end car like I did, the driveshaft is interchangeable with this swap. Otherwise, you'll need to get one built.

I will say, this swap has been a fantastic experience for me. I have a high revving PP, and the T2 transmission did not want to shift at above 9k. This swap resolved that issue, and it drives like a modern car now.

 

not doubting this, this is more of a question. isn't there some physical interference issue with the Rx-8 slave? i think it supposedly hits the oil filter and i vaguely remember reading somewhere that the slave from an Acura Integra (or some Honda) was the fix for the issue.

 

Correct. While the Rx8 slave is "compatible" it does not fit with this swap. You need to use a early 2000's Honda or Mitsubishi slave cylinder. I can't recall which one, but Rob's website says the kit includes one.

 

except for not having a speedometer?
.

 

I have a speedometer. I'm using a Speedhut GPS speedometer adapter in order to use the factory cluster. Works like a charm.

https://speedhut.com/accessories/sen...eed-converter/

 

I'm also using that Speedhut speedometer adapter in my FC. The ford cable works good with very little modification.

 

that’s pretty cool

how does all this compare to other transmission options though?

.

 

It depends on your specific goals. If you're building a high torque engine, the S2 Rx8 transmission isn't going to be your best option. For lower power, or high revving/hp and low torque, it's a great option.

I have a peripheral port tuned to 10k that makes nearly 300whp. For me, this transmission was a good option due to the low cost, better synchros, and gear spacing applicable to my engine. It's been leagues better than my t2 box in this specific application.

 

I was just adding up the costs and was pretty sure you dyno’d more peak tq than any NA Renesis ever did is why I asked. They do shift nice, but won’t hold up if pushed hard, like a track car. On a street car you might be ok.

Was thinking a Nissan 370Z CD009 trans swap with similar gearing (closer to the S1) and shifting ability might cost slightly more initially, but be mostly bulletproof on a 13BPP, even most turbo engines too.
.

 

The cost wasn't too high for me, as I got the transmission from an auction parts car for $400.

The CD009 is a good option, but very heavy and barely fits in the transmission tunnel. For what it's worth, Pineapple racing has been running this transmission in his 3 Rotor (now 2 rotor) Repu for years.

Regardless, I feel this is a good option for me. User experience may vary.

 

yeah, it is about 45 - 50 lbs heavier than an S2 RX8 trans, but low and centered, and I heard it is a tighter fit in an FC too. Not trying to knock on the thread or convince anyone though. The Nissan CD009 is a so much stronger option that some people might not be aware of is all.

I blew up 5 RX8 transmissions just autocrossing them, but to be fair on four of them it was always shifting hard into 2nd gear at Pro Solo events that use a drag-type start (spins the gear teeth off) and there are recent threads on RX8Club of track cars eating them (spins 3rd gear teeth off). Used Series 2 RX8 transmissions are getting a lot harder to find because they made a lot less of those 2009-2011 models along with it going on 11 years of no longer making them, and when they go out it almost always costs more to rebuild than buying a new one.

So if you go easy on shifting it with good oil maintenance then I can see it lasting 50k+ miles. In 2020 I did only pay $1650 for the latest new 370Z CD009 version at a local Nissan dealership, but I believe they increased the price post-covid now. At the time that was maybe $500-$600 less than a new Mazda S2 transmission even with my Motorsports wholesale discount pricing. The 3x+ increased torque capacity of the CD009 should be considered imo.

So I hadn’t seen a dyno from your car in several years and it seemed like you were making less than 300 hp then. Got a link or photo of a newer one?
.

 

Why does the pineapple swap kit say it requires the use of a S2 trans instead of S1? I ask because I have an S1 trans laying in my shop and I was considering throwing it in, but all the fab work turned me off... a drop in kit is much more up my alley.

 

the shifter linkage is different on the S1 vs S2. The S2 you can extend right out the back of the tailshaft, so it's easy to just make a kit to move the shifter position. Not so easy on the S1's.

 

Mazda has some P6Y1-03-000's coming with an ETA of September 25th
so its not dead yet. price looks like its still circa 2019 too

 

I swapped in an S1 since it was available. Shifter relocation was the same concept as the other S2 swaps on here.
You just have to make your own hole in the tailhousing.

 

Well **** if thats the case I'll just do that and put a grommet or seal on there....that's an easy fix. I already have a S1 trans sitting here

Any photos of what you did?

 

To clarify, I was just pointing out the hole is there in an s2 and you have to make your own on an s1.
you still need to make a coupler, shift rod extension and grind the tailhousing for clearance.

 

The shift rod looks like its completely replaced in the pineapple kit though.

https://www.pineappleracing.com/swap...eedintofc.aspx

Click on view more images and theen check the long rod.

 

True. Probably because there's very limited room for coupler engagement and they added a rear shift rod support.
I didn't think it was necessary and could've interfere with the driveshaft.
It's definitely a premium bolt-in product but my solution should work for a lot less

 

I have a whole TII engine going into my car, including a TII flywheel and I'm upgrading my clutch, so that all is covered. The main issue in running into is the driveshaft. I cant find a TII driveshaft, I would use the auto driveshaft but nobody says it ago, and having one made I'm sure is at least a grand+

 

mazdatrix will make you one for $450

https://mazdatrix.com/product/drives...steel-typical/