epp_b

I should start by saying that I am new here and I that have already...
a.) skimmed over the FAQ, which is all objective and factual information, and
b.) searched on all of the topics I'm about to ask about, I just need some elaboration

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I've been looking for a used car for myself for about 3 months now, and only in the last week have I test driven some cars that make me say, "Yes! I like this thing!" The car that did this most for me was a 1990 Mazda RX-7 (naturally aspirated, no turbo; but it loves to rev and it keeps the power going for most of them!). I just can't explain in words how much fun this car is (of course, I probably don't need to tell that to most of you). This particular car is in OK cosmetic condition, seemingly good mechanical condition, it's got 150,000 KMs (that's about 93,000 miles). The car has a small chip on the front left, a small spot of rust on the rear left quarter panel behind the wheel, the left front indicator cover is missing, and there are a few little nicks here and there, but the guy selling it is a private broker who says that all of that will be fixed before the car is sold.

Now, everyone I've talked to (eg.: a relative, who used to be a mechanic and is now power mech. teacher; my dad's co-worker who is a big car enthusiast) tells me that an RX-7 is a high-maintenence car, due in part to the fact that it's, at soul, a sports car and the other part due its unique rotory engine (eg.: oil changes are every 2,000-3,000 KMs instead of 5,000 KMs with normal piston engines; and I'm sure there's more, too). Now, while I know the basics of how to take care of a car by keeping it clean, checking and topping up fluids, changing the oil and so on and so forth; I don't pretend to be a mechanic, because I'm certainly not one I've basically been told that, with an RX-7, it really only works for you if you're a mechanic, know a lot about tinkering with cars or have/are willing to spend money to maintain it properly (interestingly, not by people who actually own RX-7s... ). What is your opinion on this? Not being someone who knows a whole lot about working with the innards of cars, would having an RX-7 end up being a money-pit for me?

Secondly, I need a year-round car and I need to be able to use it in the winter time -- which can get colder than -30 degrees celsius (generally, I don't even use a car or leave the house at that point), but my job doesn't require me to drive to and from work every day, so it probably sits as many days as it's actually driven. When I do drive a car in any weather that's even slightly cold, I let it warm up for several minutes before even putting it into gear -- I'm kind of paranoid that way, but it serves my cars well. I live in a small town where they just sprinkle some dirt on the roads instead of salt. Every month or so, I have to head out to the city where they use a lot of salt, but I make darn sure that any car I have gets cleaned thoroughly after driving in any amount of salt. After reading some posts that I've searched for, it seems that, even with cleaning the salt off a car, the salt will still eat it up. Can this be the case when it's exposed to salt -- but immediately cleaned off -- only a few times a year? How is it in winter for reliability and -- with good winter tires -- driveability?

Oh, after doing a bit more searching, I've also read here that it needs to be modified to cool properly for hot days in the summer time because rotory engines run hotter than "normal" piston engines. It gets as hot as it does cold here: 35 degrees celsius some days, so that is definitely something I would need to know about. Is this basically a one-time modification? Can it become expensive?

Sorry for the long post, but thanks for taking the time to read it

Syncro

iTrader: (1)

I heard about this before when I lived in Ottawa.

Maybe it's simply a quick thermostat change between summer\winter?

Icemark

Actually the RX-7 has considerably less maintenance requirements because of the engine. There is no timing belt, there are no valves to adjust, there is no head gasket to replace, etc.

And a 2000 to 3000KM oil change is radically to often and just throwing away money. Turbo models should have the oil changed every 3000 MILES not km (whats that- about 5K km???). while non turbo models with decent compression should have their oil changed every 5000 miles (again, not KM- around 8000km if I recall my conversions correctly.)

So you can see that the overall maintenance requirements are considerably less.

Of course common things like belts, spark plugs and filters still should be done much like much other cars.

What the big key in ownership is, is to find a car that has not been abused and forgotten about by the previous owner. Someone that did do regular oil changes and did drive the car. And remember any car (regardless of the brand, or manufacture) will need some work when it is 15-20 years old. That is what you should be thinking most about. Not the level of maintenance (no matter how much less that is than on a piston powered car).


There are no modifications required for the car to run correctly on hot days. The FC was designed to operate in a full range of temperatures, and does not have any problems dealing with warm or hot weather as long as the cooling system was maintained.

Now you do get some (shall we say nicely) less experienced owners that think that the car does not need the lower engine shroud or the stock fan or stock radiator or stock thermostat. Theses idiots remove or substitute those things and then complain about their car not cooling correctly. And that is simply because they hacked up their cars.

But with a properly functioning stock cooling system you can drive the car in 120F temps and not have an issue at all.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Biggest problem for you owning a 7 will simply be winter driving.

Ive drove several N/A's in the snow:

They are DANGEROUS even with good snow tires.

Now thats not to say that you can't get away with it but its a question of do you really want to have to worry about sliding out (not just the back end, the front end is the more un-predictable end in ANY amount of snow) every time you get in the car in the winter?

As far as maintenance goes, you can own a 7 and not have it be too much of a money pit if you keep up with regular maintenance. The only stipulation in that would be that you don't buy a piece of ****. Most 7's for sale are simply that. Take your time and find a nice, clean, well maintained car with - preferably - under 150,000kms. Even if its $1500 more than another, trust me, its worth it.

So basically its all up to you. But just bear in mind that Ive gone trough a couple winter's in an N/A 7 and it can be very taxing on your nerves (especially when your woman is in the car) to pepper that little skid machine around.

ahabion

About a year ago, i was in the same situation you were... and i thought that an rx7 turbo would be too much work and maintenence to do in comparison to my civic, which is true... but what i've really learned from this forum is that as long as you put forth the effort to maintain it properly (no shortcuts, and if you do, it better not be crap) then you'll have a reliable car.

I'm not sure about you ever overheating in Canada due to weather... there are folks here in GA, FL, Cali, AZ, TX that do just fine with stock setups... its just that you have to change the thermostat every once in a while and it would be a good idea to replace the stock radiator as they are prone to fail.

Snow... i wouldnt see how that would be different for any other RWD car...

All in all, if you're only going to go knee deep... i wouldnt recommend it... i think that many rx7 fans dive in.

epp_b

Well, it seems that it's more of a matter of finding one at all around where I live. The one I looked at seemed pretty good, the engine looked clean (of course, that doesn't necessarily mean anything), no rust around the wheel wells, the interior was clean and together; but, thanks for the advice. I was told that the oil had been changed every 3000 KMs.

I suppose it rather depends on what kind oil is used (?) I've always made sure my oil is changed every 5,000 KMs regardless of the car. In my previous car, a 2001 Nissan Sentra SE (got totalled by my sister ), I used 5W30, for example.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

You've never driven an FC in the snow have you? I'd rather pilot our vert 5.0 mustang around than the squirelly little FC chassis when it comes to snow.

epp_b

Hmmm...it has to be pretty bad to be worse than a 5.0L Mustang with more torque than you know what to do with...

Icemark

Not really dependent on the type of oil as long as it is a SF or better quality oil.

On the FC in your climate you will probably use 10W30 most of the time. It is fine for climates from OF to around 85-90F If you are seeing temps above 90F consistently, then use a 15W40 or 20W50.

If you are consistently getting under 0F then you can use 5W30, but you really do not want to use that above 80F.

the Majority of owners use Castrol GTX oil, but again, as long as it meets SF or better quailty any oil should be fine up to 5000 miles

daviddeep

iTrader: (4)

Quite a few of the N/A cars (mine included) had open differentials which makes winter traction even more of an issue. Add to this the light weight and the RX-7 is far from a great winter driver. If your commute doesn't involve many hills, you may be OK, but climbing a snowy or icy hill in my RX-7 was far from a treat. I now have a front wheel drive van for that.

staticguitar313

iTrader: (2)

its definetly not a wet weather car haha, a little to much throttle on wet or snowy roads and your facing the other direction. I rained just the other day and i had no trouble redlining first just trying to take off normally from a stop . . .

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Biggest thing is the wieght.

In snow the FC seriously has no idea where it wants to go. You can be gliding down the road, in neutral, at say 50km/h in a light dusting of snow and you will feel the fron end darting slightly whereever it pleases. In some cases its controllable, but you experience this 100% of the time there is slick stuff on the road.

At least in a heavier RWD car that doesn't have static 50/50 weight distriution, the front end remains relatively straight and its mostly a matter of keeping your right foot under close watch.

TwelveA

BUY IT!!!! lol I had 11 rx7. They are FUN!!!

ProjectR13B

iTrader: (1)

my RX-7 was more reliable and took more abuse than my honda. sadly the owners before me didnt take car of the car at all so it has some serious rust issues and then my engine blew. but, its not uncommon for a well maintained RX-7 to live as long as any other car.

Fitness Stain

i didnt know much about cars in general when i bought my 7 a few years back. i had a friend or 4 that helped me out when i couldnt figure it out ...
you'll find yourself begging for tools on xmas

i never thought i'd be good with cars, but i've surprised myself many times with what i have accomplished.

epp_b

Well, maybe there's a chance for the mechanically declined after all
I'm not completely hopeless, I guess -- I do work with computer hardware, if that means anything.

Oy, too many acronyms! I know what the oil ratings are, but what do "FC" and "SF" mean?

So, in an extreme climate where winters can be colder than minus 30 celsius and summers can be hotter than plus 30 celsius, I would need to use different oil grades for different seasons?

gtr06

It was only really expensive for me when the exhaust system needed to be replaced, but then again its quite expensive in most other cars as well, so look for one with exhausts that aren't leaking.

Also got bald tires when I bought it, going to have to get them replaced with decent ones which will probably cost just as much as my exhaust repairs.

Other than that minimum rust and a good body will save you a lot of headaches as well.

epp_b

This particular car has already had some major exhaust work done.

Well, it would definitely need new tires for winter if I decided go that route.

theory

iTrader: (5)

Up to this year I had never even done an oil change in my life. Since I got my 87 RX7 in may I've accomplished alot of things I wouldn't have ever thought I could do. Download the Factory Service Manuals, and purchase a Haynes manual and just do some reading. You can do alot more then you think given a little time, some reading, some patience and some tools!

epp_b

Oh, I should ask one more thing: does a stock 1990 RX-7 have a limited slip diff? I understand that it is better for in the winter time (presumably because the inside wheel doesn't lose grip while making a turn?).

gtr06

depends on the model, I think its listed in the sticky. LSD just means more work, you have to check and/or add fluid and sometimes it doesn't work properly and sticks.

epp_b

Oh, I'll check that then - thanks.

Also good to know, thanks.

Icemark

-30 C is the same thing as 0F. Most people do use different oil for different seasons, but again 10W30 would be fine for temps between 0F and 85F.

The list of abreveations can be found in the FAQ for FC sticky thread, (which you should read before posting), but the short of it, is:

FC = the 2nd gen RX-7

SF is the quality rating of the motor oil. All motor oil sold has a quality rating. Motor oil for use in the 2nd gen RX-7 (FC) needs to be a SF or better grade (SG, SH, SJ, SM etc).

The quality/purity of the oil is just as important as the weight.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

This is so true. An Rx-7 was my first car (and I still have it but no longer daily drive it, just garage it for weekends) and I only knew how to change oil. I've owned it for two years and the only things I really needed to replace were a thermostat, alternator, and (not super necessary) shocks. The thing is, I bought one that was clean for 139k on the clock. The previous owner had just rebuilt the motor (he is on here) and knew what he was doing. I didn't buy one of those damn FUBAR'd ones you hear about all the time with a billion things wrong with it.

Don't be a cheapass. I would spend at least 3500-4000 US dollars on a really nice one that's been well taken care of and preferably has a rebuilt or low mileage original motor. Half the people who bitch abour Rx-7s being unreliable either have a car that was poorly maintained or they are modding the **** out of their car and breaking stuff all the time.

cdaleracer669

iTrader: (1)

ive daily driven mine and its proven plenty reliable. i drive it in the snow but from a stoplight you wont move until you hit 3rd (with brand new all season tires). and a "sub-par" driver would wreck it in snow. you have to be ReALLY careful lol. well worth it tho.