Rusty J-spec.. Will it still work?
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,252
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From: Spring Hill TN 37174
Rusty J-spec.. Will it still work?
I pulled the plugs on my j-spec (s5) and they were covered in rust!!! I looked in the motor and it had surface rust and what not on the rotors. It was locked up.. I then proceeded to pump some MMO into the spark plug holes and rotated the motor loose. It came loose very easily. Rusty water then poored out of the spark plug holes. I had very strong compression bursts from each port so it appears that the seals (apex) are good.
My question is will the Car still run with the motor like this? I sprayed some PB in there and rotated it until the fluid came out clear again. I know I should probably just rebuild it but It has to be at least IN the car for my brother-in-law's senior project that is due this month. A rebuild will be in the near future but I wonder will it run at all?
Thanks
My question is will the Car still run with the motor like this? I sprayed some PB in there and rotated it until the fluid came out clear again. I know I should probably just rebuild it but It has to be at least IN the car for my brother-in-law's senior project that is due this month. A rebuild will be in the near future but I wonder will it run at all?
Thanks
Last edited by RRTEC; Apr 5, 2006 at 01:53 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,252
Likes: 2
From: Spring Hill TN 37174
Oh I am going to try to start it. LOL.. But I wonder how hard the car will be to start PLUS the turbo is in great shape and I would hate to F that thing up with little rusty particles...lol.. Maybe i will slap an old s4 turbo on there while I try to start it up..
PB it couple more times, new oil/filer, run the bitch for a couple of hours, change the oil again
or
fill the engine with MMO and let it sit for a week, drain it, oil change, and I bet it'll run fine
or
fill the engine with MMO and let it sit for a week, drain it, oil change, and I bet it'll run fine
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,252
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From: Spring Hill TN 37174
It is pickled in MMo as we speak.. Oil change will come shorly after the wiring is done.. Thanks so much. It appears it was stored outside and water came in throuh the intake.. Because it wasn't coolant and the rust was only on one of the faces of the rotors...
It's been my experience that rotaries are robust little engines despite what the media would have you believe. The FD I bought literally sat for 3 years before I got my hands on it - all it needed to run was a new battery and som TLC to run well. People in general are stupid especially when it comes to cars and 7's just don't like stupid people.
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Originally Posted by niburu
People in general are stupid especially when it comes to cars and 7's just don't like stupid people.
I would not put that engine in unless you rebuild it. Chances are that the first time you go to crank it the housings are going to get pitted to no return. just my opinion
One thing.
Some Jspec importers pressure wash the engines to clean them.
This could be the reason why you had water in there.
Then there's the more common problem of bad engine.
Some Jspec importers pressure wash the engines to clean them.
This could be the reason why you had water in there.
Then there's the more common problem of bad engine.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,252
Likes: 2
From: Spring Hill TN 37174
I hope it works out, my brother in law is only 17 and has put virtually every dime he has into this car.. Here are his mods..
Rusty S5 j-spec
Racing Beat Springs and Sway Bars
Hks Intake
Hks BOV
Racing Beat Downpipe
K&N Filter
S4 wiring harness and S5 injectors wired in
S5 T2 wheels
Custom exhaust w/ Fart cans.
Hope all goes well.. If not another $600-$800 for a local rebuild....
Rusty S5 j-spec
Racing Beat Springs and Sway Bars
Hks Intake
Hks BOV
Racing Beat Downpipe
K&N Filter
S4 wiring harness and S5 injectors wired in
S5 T2 wheels
Custom exhaust w/ Fart cans.
Hope all goes well.. If not another $600-$800 for a local rebuild....
plus whatever is bad internally. That would be my only scare is that something else would mess up to where I would have to replace it (ie irons, housings etc...) I thought if the iron face was rusted the iron was bad? How can you tell if there is rust on the iron?
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