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Rusted bolts on brake calipers...any thoughts?

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Old 08-11-07, 11:50 AM
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Rusted bolts on brake calipers...any thoughts?

I just broke a ratchet trying to undo the bolts on my calipers, which are rusted to hell. Any thoughts, or should I just hand it over to the garage and let them deal with it?
Old 08-11-07, 11:52 AM
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is in a boosted honda
 
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run to the nearest autoparts store and pick up a can of penetrating lube. spay it on the bolts and let them soak for a lil bit, the try and break them loose. if it dont work, spray some more and let it sit longer....
Old 08-11-07, 11:55 AM
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No danger with it mixing with the brake fluid or getting it all over the place?
Old 08-11-07, 12:30 PM
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pb blaster ftw. i used it fine just spray it on the bolts and let penetrate for reccomended time.
Old 08-11-07, 12:40 PM
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dont break em, hub removal sucks.
use the rusty bolt lube, and get a 1lb hammer.
Make sure you lube the bolt head and the hole inbetween the caliper and the disc rotor, many forget they can lube both ends, that will help you out a ton.
Once its soaked, attach your wrench and tap it with the 1lb hammer gently, sheer force/torque will bust that bolt and your knuckles.
If you break a stud, hub removal is the next step
Old 08-11-07, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by mxd
dont break em, hub removal sucks.
use the rusty bolt lube, and get a 1lb hammer.
Make sure you lube the bolt head and the hole inbetween the caliper and the disc rotor, many forget they can lube both ends, that will help you out a ton.
Once its soaked, attach your wrench and tap it with the 1lb hammer gently, sheer force/torque will bust that bolt and your knuckles.
If you break a stud, hub removal is the next step
i thought of doing this method after i broke the f'in bolt. so yeah more work for me.
Old 08-11-07, 01:16 PM
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I ended up using a cut-off wheel. If they're bad enough, you'll have to end up replacing your caliper and bracket. That's what I had to do. (the penetrating catalist didn't do the trick.) It sucked, because what was going to be a pad replacment ended up being a $100 job.
Old 08-11-07, 06:56 PM
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hmm. Would heating the bolt up with a propane torch work or would that damage something there? that's always helped me with exhaust manifold studs
Old 08-11-07, 07:12 PM
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Propane may not get it hot enough.

I'd suggest using a wrench, or two wrenches.

OR a six point socket and a large breaker bar.

Use lots of PBlaster, too.

I actually jut ran into this replacing my rear caliper today... PBlaster, some wrenches, and a large hammer did the trick for me.

But then again I'm not a *****... JK.

Good luck.

James
Old 08-11-07, 07:45 PM
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Propane will get it hot Enough..set the flame on the Torch so that it is On the Nut and the metal around it.You have to get it Fairly Hot..like almost Cherry(it most likely Get that hot but you know what I mean!)..six point socket and Breaker Bar?..YES!..If the Bolt Does Break,It is most likely Due to the bolt Going through the spindle,and then attaching to the Back Bracket(corrosion from conflicting metals Sets in)..the Bolt at the bracket,you may still be able to get that piece out,and then all you need is another Bolt.Good luck.
Old 08-11-07, 08:19 PM
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Step 1 should be to get replacement bolts. When you finally get yours loose, you don't want to re-use them. Especially if you apply heat, etc. to them.
Old 08-11-07, 09:36 PM
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Lots of rotors

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A buddy and I were doing the front pads and rotors in his GXL FC,
and I had to get on the ground, push against another car with my arms, and push the wrench with my feet. And a week after we did his brakes, I had to do the exact same thing on my FC using another car and all. I dont know why they tend to act like a woman...
Old 08-12-07, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by pimpdaddy7835
I dont know why they tend to act like a woman...
They do it because there is heat, water and dissimilar metals involved- pretty much ideal conditions for galvanic reaction/frozen bolts.
Hopefully you put some anti-seize on the bolts when you replaced them so the next time will be easier.
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