I want to rustproof my car... what do you guys recommend?

 

POR-15 if you can handle it.

Otherwise visit your local Krown dealer.

 

I prefer Silver-bullet or Zero-Rust rather than POR-15. I had a bad experience using POR15 on a Porshe 914-6 project.

http://www.rustbullet.com/Products/A...Automotive.htm

 

Does this stuff really work? Is it as simple as painting over rusted metal and your problems are solved? It just seems too good to be true, there has to be a downside.

 

I am not a big fan of POR-15 either. It seams to be really durable, but it is very dependent on good surface prep (which isn’t always easy to do). Unless you are going to strip your car to the bare chassis and then sand-blast, POR-15 may not be for you.

 

I would use a pretreat of a rust converter first, then the Por-15 or Rust Bullet; or use the converter and then epoxy primer, and then top coat w/ Por-15 or Rust Bullet, but I really hate rust.

 

mmm, beg to differ with you.that is where i had my problems with POR15, we stripped the inderbody of the 914-6 to bare netal, sandlased all rust, treated with ospho; then applied the por15. within 2 weeks it was coming off the car in big sheets.

those products are designed to go over rust, when i talked to POR15 tech support, the stated I had overprepped the maetal. Do figure.......

 

btw, i have some zero rust on hand. I laso have some rust bullet on order. I'll go ahead and order some POR15 also.

I have a 76 RX4 with lots of surface rust, I'll do some side by side applications for comparisons sake; if anyone is interested

 

POR-15 is designed to work on rusted but still structurally sound metal. It grips rust better than anything. I did the underside of my car and it turned out great.

The stuff is truly nasty though.

It actually needs mosture to dry. I have read this is sometimes the problem with people who use it and experience issues. They live in very dry climates and the stuff dosnt set properly.

 

when we applied it on the 914-6, humidity was >80% (Isle of Palms SC, Aug 1991)

 

That's also a problem. High humidity means moisture gets trapped underneath. The result is a poor bond and bubbles forming during the drying process.

 

I'm using zerorust right now in the restoration of a REPU. IF you follow the directions, that stuff is bulletproof and really easy to use. The key is to make sure that the surface has all loose rust removed, oil and dirt free, and DRY. I am really impressed so far.

 

the best way is rhino liner spray. its sticky and every rust spot never comes back. i have a old truck i used it on and its strong stuff. doesnt peel or nothing. trust me. u can also sand it down after it dries easily too.

 

I was getting read yto say that carl, I have a friend who shoots the liner not only will it stop rust in its tracks it will go over anything and works great as a sound deadener. I highly recomend do it on a lift, without the exaust on or paper it up VERY well.

 

one HUGE downside to the Spray on bedliners: WEIGHT

That stuff is heavy at the recommended application rates.

Plus, you have still sealed the moisture in, the rust will continue from within (albeit at a slower rate)