I asked befor about running two oil coolers hooked end on end but everyone told me it would drop the pressure too much. How about parallel oil coolers? with Y fittings to the block? Would that work?

 

Why are you wanting to do this? One oil cooler should be more than enough for most applications.

Also, the stock oil cooler is very efficient. The aftermarket ones are no better than ours. The best bet if you really feel you need to do this would be to have the oil coolers mounted one above another and have the oil enter the lower cooler, then exit and enter the upper cooler, then exit and return to the oil pan.

 

Well when ever I race my temp shoots up like a ****. I want to be able to race and not blow the engine.

 

That would be more of a coolant cooling issue rather than oil!! Don't get me wrong, but the oil does help cool the engine; the stock oil cooler is plenty enough!! upgrade your cooling system...larger radiator, electric fan, Water Wetter...Check to see if you have any coolant leaks!! even a pin size hole will have an effect on the cooling capacity of the coolant!

 

yeah that is something I plan to do

 

Make sure your cooling system is in working order before you upgrade, flush, and change the thermostate that could be your problem also using more water than antifreeze will reduce temps also....you don't really need very much antifreeze if any down here in Tejas...

 

all I am missing is the thermo all other things have been done.

 

you could run an underdrive on the water pump, it's probably getting cavitation if the temp shoots up that much.
Face it though, engines get hot when being raced. Cooling the oil doesn't cool the engine nearly as much as the water.
Get a bigger radiator if you want to stay cooler.

 

I was just looking at the fluydine and K2RD ones. they are so damn expensive though. like 400. What is the better radiator? does anyone have these??

 

That is incorrect. You should maintain at least a 60/40 and preferably 50/50 due to the corrosion inhibiters that prevent your motor from rusting out from the inside.

You should never ever ever run less than 40% coolant in a rotary unless you are racing and rebuilding more than a couple times a season.

 

factory owners manual suggests a minimum antifreeze percentage of 35% for conditions above 3 degrees F.

 

That was back in the '80s where the water didn't have as much phospate as it does now.

But even so, I was only off by 5%.

 

what if the winter here is about 40F at most. I am dealing with daily temps of 90's and above even 100's will be normal on a daily basis here.

 

ALSO, the coolant /water solution boils at a higher temp. So yeah, 50-70%water + anti-freeze = no rust, no boil, no problems
Ever have a good flush? not in the john man, in your radiator..could be all clogged with goo...

 

In your sig it says airpump removed...

Are you running a dual alternator pulley so that the waterpump gets properly driven?

This is a very common cause of overheating- one belt to the waterpump is not enough and slips at higher rpm!

As for the dual parallel oil cooler mod-

Probably not necessary on an NA as they don't put nearly as much heat into the oil as a TII because they are not cooling/lubricating a turbo and are not cooling nearly as much combustion energy (HP) from the rotors. But, even on an NA it won't hurt anything if done correctly.

I am looking to do this mod on my horizontal mount IC TII- just have to find a straight 2nd stock oil cooler. Not easy.

Rob Golden built my engine w/ a new oil cooler outlet tapped into the oil galley in the front side housing- a better location than stock. I was going to run the 2nd oil cooler off the stock oil cooler outlet on the front cover w/ AN fittings and "Y" into the stock return location on the rear side housing.

I have already front mounted my primary stock oil cooler when I re-arranged everything under my hood.

 

Your temps shoot up because something isnt working correctly with your cooling system. Even if you upgraded your cooling system your problem would still probably continue.

 

This is BS, my car only has one waterpump belt and it never overheats. This might be true on TII, but not on street-driven N/as.

 

Have the rad professionally flushed by a shop.

 

I am buying a new thermostat soon. I have flushed the system once already with the zerex flush bottle. I am running about 70-30 water-cooliant. Should I try to flush it again?

 

even in the distilled water? I hope no one is using tap water in there rad....distilled is very close to pure H2O

 

wait I am using purified/bottled water in mine. Is that ok or is it not distilled?

 

Griffin's seem to be fairly reasonable -- even check the generic Summit racing ones. You can find the Griffins at Summit too. Seems like less than $200 for either -- and I remember a recent thread on this or the other forum about a successful and happy Griffin install.

 

They're going fast...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...&category=6770
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=33602

 

Quote-
This is BS, my car only has one waterpump belt and it never overheats. This might be true on TII, but not on street-driven N/as.

I experienced this myself on my '86 base NA. When driving at redline for long durations it would begin to heat up. I could REALLY tighten up the 1 belt, but that will put much more wear on the waterpump.

I'm not talking about "street driving" and neither was the original poster-

Quote- "Well when ever I race my temp shoots up like a ****. "

See

-EDIT-
Oh, thanks Trav. Those do look pretty good. I bought one off E-bay before and wouldn't you know the side not shown in the picture didn't look so good.

 

Okay I guess I'm the only one that's gonna answer the question . Yes it's possible to run 2 oil coolers in parallel instead of series and it's recommended for that reason (pressure drop). I'll see if I can find a write up for you somewhere, I remember Grassroots having some guy (when they were doing their "tribute to the FC") who was speaking about the dual oil coolers in parallel. Check out the Grassroots Motorsports website and see if they can help you out.