running rich.....help haha
running rich.....help haha
ok well i was running rich and i just adjusted my tps with the resistince method i was wondering what else i could do to fix this problem thnks
its a s5 btw
its a s5 btw
n/a with 3mm seals?? hrmm... overkill?
first off, throwin any codes?
for it to run richer than normal, i would think a sensor should be out of spec a tad or the car throwing a code (in which case a sensor is definately out of spec or dead). also low compression can cause backfires which sort of "hint" at rich when it may just be fuel going unburned.
whats your mpg?
first off, throwin any codes?
for it to run richer than normal, i would think a sensor should be out of spec a tad or the car throwing a code (in which case a sensor is definately out of spec or dead). also low compression can cause backfires which sort of "hint" at rich when it may just be fuel going unburned.
whats your mpg?
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un-tunned car or fauled up injectors.......if its the injectors, then best thing to do is send them off to be cleaned..if its un-tunned car, then best thing to do is get a SAFC and tune it or have someone tune it for you.
didnt know cars untuned themselves. my damn car is an evil transformer that eats gas!
if something's wrong, fixing it may be wiser than buying and installing a piggyback computer/airflow converter to "coverup" the problem.
afm "broken"? doubtful. depending on your definition of broken. when i hear broke, i think something physically busted. it could be out of spec, sure. i'm not sure how often this happens. you can volt-test it. i dont know the spec volts, though.
i also again want to ask what your mpg are. i ran "rich" when my engine was dying. the low compression of the dying motor was dumping a bit more unburned fuel out the exhaust. i doubt the car ran any richer, but it wasnt burning all its fuel causing a rich effect.
also, again, does your check engine light work? is your computer giving you any codes?
if your mileage is near 20mpg, youre likely worrying too much. if its 13 or 14mpg and youre not making gobs of power or driving like a 'bat outta hell,' then something is wrong.
have you tested your tps? i know you said you did the resistance method (i'm not sure exactly how it works), but have you tested its volts at idle and engine off/key on?
Throttle Sensor Narrow Range (pin 2F): Ign Switch ON (idle position) - approx 1.0v
Ign Switch ON (full open) - 5.0v
Idle - 1.0v
Throttle Sensor Full Range (pin 2G): Ign Switch ON (idle position) - approx 0.8v
Ign Switch ON (full open) - 4.3v
Idle - 0.8v
also check for a smooth transition in voltage (though this would be more common for hesitations, etc, i believe). you can check for smooth transition testing ohms (resistance) as well. UNHOOK the TPS checking OHMs.
if something's wrong, fixing it may be wiser than buying and installing a piggyback computer/airflow converter to "coverup" the problem.
afm "broken"? doubtful. depending on your definition of broken. when i hear broke, i think something physically busted. it could be out of spec, sure. i'm not sure how often this happens. you can volt-test it. i dont know the spec volts, though.
i also again want to ask what your mpg are. i ran "rich" when my engine was dying. the low compression of the dying motor was dumping a bit more unburned fuel out the exhaust. i doubt the car ran any richer, but it wasnt burning all its fuel causing a rich effect.
also, again, does your check engine light work? is your computer giving you any codes?
if your mileage is near 20mpg, youre likely worrying too much. if its 13 or 14mpg and youre not making gobs of power or driving like a 'bat outta hell,' then something is wrong.
have you tested your tps? i know you said you did the resistance method (i'm not sure exactly how it works), but have you tested its volts at idle and engine off/key on?
Throttle Sensor Narrow Range (pin 2F): Ign Switch ON (idle position) - approx 1.0v
Ign Switch ON (full open) - 5.0v
Idle - 1.0v
Throttle Sensor Full Range (pin 2G): Ign Switch ON (idle position) - approx 0.8v
Ign Switch ON (full open) - 4.3v
Idle - 0.8v
also check for a smooth transition in voltage (though this would be more common for hesitations, etc, i believe). you can check for smooth transition testing ohms (resistance) as well. UNHOOK the TPS checking OHMs.
out of spec = untunned for me....guess i should be more specific next time :-p..and i don't think they "un-tune" themselves, rather old worn out parts need to be replaced..like 02 sensor, and the rest of the wonderful things we enjoy spending money to change....
of course. untuned to me is something that is actually tune-able (though some things like a TPS can be adjusted, thats not "tuning" in my book; but 'my book' is not the only book, so i should play nice
).
Originally Posted by apreludem
mine is at an amazing 6.5 =) ....
that's low, can't beat the low 4mpg i was getting
i've gotten it up to 12 mpg now and still working on it. i know the gasoline companies love us right about now, sucks to be us. stay strong BROTHA!!!!!
I think you need a full tuneup. New sparkplugs/wires, new O2 sensor, change the oil, grounds, etc.
If that doesn't help you might consider purchasing a SAFC-II and leaning it out.
3MM apex seals are WAY overkill for anything not running 20+psi on some form of forced induction.
If that doesn't help you might consider purchasing a SAFC-II and leaning it out.
3MM apex seals are WAY overkill for anything not running 20+psi on some form of forced induction.
when i got the car it was really messed the afm had a crack in it and it wouldnt even idle it would start and die. i patched it with duck tape ...... haha and it would hold a idle but its still rich thats why i was thinking the afm could be the culprit
but as casio said it would be better to fix it instead of doing a cover up lol
if i were to get somthing to tune my air/fuel ratio would that take the smell away and fix everything haha
but as casio said it would be better to fix it instead of doing a cover up lol
if i were to get somthing to tune my air/fuel ratio would that take the smell away and fix everything haha
Originally Posted by casio
if its 13 or 14mpg and youre not making gobs of power or driving like a 'bat outta hell,' then something is wrong.
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