Corbit

where would be the spot to inject it on a turbo

flubyux2

you know what just "Donned" on me? Nitrous cleans out your system VERY VERY well.

my friend has a 02 cavalier w/ a completely built motor and a 125 shot... runs low 13's in w/ an automatic. its got over 30,000 on the rebuild. he just tore the head off and it looked brand freakin new inside... like someone started it up once and turned it off. no carbon buildup anywhere.

maybe we should all run 75 wet shots...

Nitrous; the tiny scrubbing bubbles!

Drifter101

@ tiny scrubbing bubbles

ponykiller

I am assuming you disconnect this line from the manifold, and stick it in water?

Or (just to make sure) do you disconnect the line from the manifold, hook a new line to the manifold and feed water through the new line into the manifold?

andrew lohaus

i just did the CC rick and dint notice much of a difference. however, my engine was probobly already pretty clean from doing the water trick with 3 gallons of distilled about a month ago and running prexif since then too i realy did notice a difference after doing the water. i lost almost all ability to engine brake, which i assume means i have much less internall friction now.

Leigh Adams

Amur_ here - borrowed computer.



Ideally, you would tee another hose to that one. That's 6mm hose there. So what I did (before I yanked the OMP) take a PVC tee, put a 2" length of 6mm on one side (which would then plug into the manifold nipple,) plug the opposite side into the hose going to the OMP injectors, and then put 2 or 3 feet of hose onto the remaining tee nipple. This way you can do the trick without losing vacuum.

GTUser

To follow up on this, I found a web site for RXP,http://www.rxp.com/overview.htm For those wanting to pass emissions and clean their engines you might want to check out this product at its website. Sounds like some interesting information.

Amur_

From that website:




Sounds like industry bafflegab to me.

lnlycrpr

I sat hear and read damn near every single thread and decided to give it a try. i didnt know which vaccum lines you guys were talking about (i have an S5) so i just picked a line at a time felt which one was sucking the most and decided to spraye it in and waited. i do notice it idles better. I used gumout and it worked great! there are two hoses just behind the TB and the lower seems to have the most vaccum. just my 2 cents

Dcrasta

After reading all this, and considering the mileage (176k) and considering my 1/4 mile times were slower this spring session than last year (17.2 vs 16.5 (although the conditions were better last winter). I figured what the heck. I got 2 pints of SeaFoam intake cleaner(in a white can its a blue chemical) (at Advanced auto 4.98 per pint). I put 1/2 pint in the crankcase (oil) 1/2 pint in the gas tank (tank as 1/2 full) and pulled the upper hose (of the row of 3) and as soon as I did the idle started the bouncing thing. I placed a long vacuum line on that port and placed the other end in the can. By using the Throttle to keep the car from stalling I was able to get it to injest the can . I made so much smoke in the parking lot some snitchy yuppie was calling the police on me. Anyway after about 3 miles of driving (leaving an EPA hazard behind me) the car pulls much strong and feels much more lively. I think this is a good thing to do. I changed the oil last night after driving about 10-15 miles and it seems much quieter (now if I replace my loud throw out bearing it will be great!) Im gonna try it in my Starion to see if I can get the compression back in one of the cylinders that a little low (stuck rings I think from sitting for so long). Just be mindful of the huge cloud of smoke it creates!



gsl-se 174k miles Air/pump removed, 5-6 ports wired open, cold air intake, rb header, custom 2.5 inch exhaust.

OneRotor

iTrader: (3)

has anyone tried this with a FD? (i read every post, if you put it down, sorry i missed it, but after 8 pages it gets kind of jumbled up there)

sXeVegan

Can i use the bigger vaccum hose here? That is on an s5 (not my car...i stole this from another post). I want to try it but i don't want to mess anything up.

Hollywood56

I have a 1988 gxl and I also use to have back in the day a 1991 turbo and I always use lucas fuel treatment mixed in with fuel in a pressurized can in the same way and I never had any problems what so ever.My father is a rotary mech for about nearly 28 years.Just as long as there is lubricants in the mix there should no problem.Did it every oil change.My 88 has 146k on the original and it still runs like new.Just my two cents.

flubyux2

thts the hose i used on my S. i actually pulled that hose off, cuz i think it goes to the VDI actuator in the intake. i connected a hose directly to the nipple on the manifold, then stuffed a smaller hose into the big hose, so it was stepped down. and i ran the hose over the side of the car and into a bucket w/ a few gallons of water. the hose was like 5 feet long. so when i started the car, the vaccum pulled the air out of the line and started up like normal. but after it ran for a second, it started pulling watter into the engine and begain to bog and sputter.

so, keep the throttle down, i kept around 3000. not sure if revving it is better than a steady RPM or not. but i pumped like 2 gallons thru that one nipple. the exhaust that comes out is absolutely rancid... ALOT sicker than your normal exhaust. there is so much unburnt fuel coming out your pipes, it WILL burn your eyes and nose and make your clothes smell. My car didnt blow any steam or smoke during this time. i think it did shoot out specks of carbon on my Talon; it was parked directly behind the FC. anyways, i think a steady RPM IS better. when you hold high RPM's w/ a touch of throttle, your vaccum is really high. steady vaccum will pull in a steady flow of water. when you rev it, you get high vaccum and then low. everytime you open the throttle, the vaccum gets weak. when you let off the throttle, the vaccum gets strong... but theres no air flowing thru the engine. so the engine might bog out cuz when you let off the throttle, it wants to suck in alot of water, but no air to carry it to the engine. i think maybe a steady RPM is the best choice. i kept it under 3800 so the secondary injectors didnt come online, just in case.

when i was done w/ that bucket, i reconnected the hose, and then ran just the small hose to the nipple on the front side of the intake manifold, like right behind the VDI flange. youll see it.

i dont know if i ran enough water into the engine though. i wanna do it some more, but i live in such a quiet neighborhood, that im sure my neighbors would get mad at me sitting in my car, w/ my motor at 3500 for like 2 minutes straight.

sa22c_Drifter

Will using the CRC Throttle Body cleaner be better than carb&chocke. The can says lubrication but does it clean just as good?. Also, will running premix and still keeping the OMP be good for the engine, or will that be too much lubrication?....or is there no such thing as "too much lubrication".

GtoRx7

iTrader: (5)

anybody have a dyno chart of a before and after horsepower? Seat of the pants is decieving, but what the hell, the rotary sound like its a garbage dispose-ALL
Lets dump some old carrots and napkins down there! That should free up some power, and end the pain in the *** of recycling! Woe, that could be goood for mazda reps...........

tong53

hey after reading ten pages of this i am gonna do it when i get my car back form the mechnic...i was just wondering if anyone else experianced one of there coolant hoses cracking like 3 others did(sorry dont remembver who, its late and took a while to read all 10 pages)...just want to knwo if i should get a spair set of hoses or if ill be alright

Kenteth

lol funny story, I was doing the ATF trick using this vac line.. stuck one end of the hose int he atf bottle, started car. I only let it run for about seconds before she sputters and dies. I get out... The entire bottle was emptied.

I worried and after I started the car again, I had to let it sit at idle for about two hours to get the smoke from rolling out of the exhaust. When I removed the exhaust about 4 months later, the inside still had residue atf fluid... was nasty as heck

sa22c_Drifter

Man, this thread is awesome, im gonna do this trick today but I got a question, I still have my three cats in threre, and i'm wondering should I do it with all the cats in there or should I do it when I get my exhaust done?, will it really clog them up really really fast?

sXeVegan

I posted in another thread how i just did this with "sea foam" and it seemed to work well. I ran it through my stock brake booster line because i have some of my vac lines rerouted (had other brake issues). It smopked like a **** for while i was doing it but it calmed down after. the vaccuum in that hose was almost non existant and it was quite powerful after all was said and done. I didn't notice much power gain though.

millerh1life

well...... i did this carb cleaner trick with some lubricating carb cleaner and after i was done i let it run for a minute and turned it off... but when i turned it back on one of my apex seals broke... so i guess i am the first negative experience.

rs_1101

oh god!!! lol... you shoulda left it running.. the carb cleaner corroded your housings and duh you broke a seal!! ur sure its just not flooded? maybe you removed so much carbon you lost compression?

millerh1life

no it doesnt run at all anymore and right after it started it started sounding real funny and i bet i had 10 horsepower because i couldnt even move the car

millerh1life

so anyone want a 91 dark blue convertable than needs a rebuid?

Amur_

miller - that's awful!

About the only thing I can say, and it's not very helpful, is that I have trouble believing that the cc is responsible for the seal going. Not being able to see into your engine kinda makes the comment worthless, but I wanted to say *something*...

If you have the motor rebuilt, hopefully the rebuilder can clarify exactly what happened in there.