Running Carb Cleaner DIRECTLY into engine, like H2o trick - MAN!! Read result!!!!!
04-20-02, 09:07 PM
#101
I came, I saw, I boosted.
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Just take any kind that explicitaly says that it lubricates!!
All CC's are petroluem distillates, and they all must use the same style of non-degrading lubricant- as long as it says it contains the lube- it'll work fine.
Very weird that three coolant lines went..... I have a theory- but it's scary.
CC temporarily makes the water seals unable to seal... incerasing pressure in the coolant system from blow-by???
I HIGHLY doubt it- but damn.....
Probably much more likely that it's a coincidence, and also more likely that the very rough, erractic running from running the CC through created surges in coolant pressure, causing any questionable hose to let go....
This is MUCH more probable.
I changed my coolant a week after my hose let go (didn't lose much) and it was pristine- so I doubt the seals were compromised, even for a minute or so.
All CC's are petroluem distillates, and they all must use the same style of non-degrading lubricant- as long as it says it contains the lube- it'll work fine.
Very weird that three coolant lines went..... I have a theory- but it's scary.
CC temporarily makes the water seals unable to seal... incerasing pressure in the coolant system from blow-by???
I HIGHLY doubt it- but damn.....
Probably much more likely that it's a coincidence, and also more likely that the very rough, erractic running from running the CC through created surges in coolant pressure, causing any questionable hose to let go....
This is MUCH more probable.
I changed my coolant a week after my hose let go (didn't lose much) and it was pristine- so I doubt the seals were compromised, even for a minute or so.
04-20-02, 10:46 PM
#102
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SO in saying that, which one lubes the best?
And the coolant hoses? That *is* funky.
I'm not aware of any direct connection/link/whatever between the vac line and the coolant sys. Is it possible that dumping CC in there is somehow briefly raising pressure in the sys? Raising it long enough to blow-out weak spots in the coolant hoses?
I replaced all 3 small coolant lines and their clamps after mine went. $70 for OEM from the dealer. I was planning on hitting it this summer anyway. The blow out just bumped up the schedule a little.
Last edited by Amur_; 04-20-02 at 10:54 PM.
04-22-02, 03:18 PM
#104
Must...scrub...parts...
Doing this without first removing the cat sounds like a really bad idea to me since inside it's mostly just a big honeycomb of charcoal which is mostly carbon. Anything that's going to remove carbon is going to degrade the cat. If you think you smell an exhaust leak a few months from now don't be suprised if you look under the car and find a glowing, flame-spitting converter.
04-26-02, 09:58 PM
#105
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OK I went to the parts store today and looked at the carb cleaners. On the back, EACH says DO NOT use with fuel injected motors!!! One, however, also said to use their "Throttle Body and Intake Cleaner" instead. Same stuff, but for fuel injected cars.
My friend with his 88 GTU and I with my 89 TII both did the treatment today, as written on the bottle. We also added some MMO to the gas to help keep it lubricated. Both of our cars idle noticebly better.
~Jeremy
My friend with his 88 GTU and I with my 89 TII both did the treatment today, as written on the bottle. We also added some MMO to the gas to help keep it lubricated. Both of our cars idle noticebly better.
~Jeremy
04-27-02, 06:46 AM
#106
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Doing this without first removing the cat sounds like a really bad idea to me since inside it's mostly just a big honeycomb of charcoal which is mostly carbon. Anything that's going to remove carbon is going to degrade the cat. If you think you smell an exhaust leak a few months from now don't be suprised if you look under the car and find a glowing, flame-spitting converter.
"Will not harm catalytic converter."
There is no mention on the can discouraging use with EFI engines... Maybe they ran out of ink.
ttyl,
Amur_
04-27-02, 01:41 PM
#108
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Marvel Mystery Oil. It gets mentioned a lot around here. Arguably the best stuff you can use for your rotary. Throw it in the tank for excellent results as a FI cleaner, and some (including me in my next change tomorrow) use it in their engine oil. It's not expensive, either, and widely available.
05-10-02, 01:56 AM
#109
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Well, here's me ressurecting a thread....
Anyway, just wanted to add a somewhat unsuccesful attempt at this (CC directly in the engine). Because I didnt have the tools or the time, I just removed the K&N, and started spraying CC in the intake. I could only do it in 1sec bursts, because the engine would almost stall right away (with the throttle at 3K). After almost 1/3 of the can, I decided it was time to call it quits. Took the Rex for a spin, and......nothing. No difference whatsoever. I think it has to do with the fact that my engine should be relatively clean already, but I didnt even get the smoother idle that some of you guys claimed. My idle is still somewhat jerky (not much, just 50-100rpm up and down, now and then...)
Anyway, just though I should share...
Anyone knows where I can find MMO here in Greece/Europe ? (or where can I order it and have it shipped to Greece)
Anyway, just wanted to add a somewhat unsuccesful attempt at this (CC directly in the engine). Because I didnt have the tools or the time, I just removed the K&N, and started spraying CC in the intake. I could only do it in 1sec bursts, because the engine would almost stall right away (with the throttle at 3K). After almost 1/3 of the can, I decided it was time to call it quits. Took the Rex for a spin, and......nothing. No difference whatsoever. I think it has to do with the fact that my engine should be relatively clean already, but I didnt even get the smoother idle that some of you guys claimed. My idle is still somewhat jerky (not much, just 50-100rpm up and down, now and then...)
Anyway, just though I should share...
Anyone knows where I can find MMO here in Greece/Europe ?
(or where can I order it and have it shipped to Greece)
05-10-02, 08:26 PM
#110
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I know exactly SFA about turbos. But I think that everyone that has done this trick so far drives NAs. I don't know what to make of the way your TII reacted...
AFA your engine already being clean, the fact that it's a rotary means that there will be *some* carbon in there. Unless maybe you're using a gasoline that's loaded with so-called cleaners. Over here, Petro-Canada is marketing something they call Tactrol which supposedly 'cleans as you drive.' The higher the octane you purchase, the more Tactrol they've supposedly added. Whatever. Still, our rotaries are designed to burn oil, and thus the continuing presence of carbon in the chambers.
Have you considered firing the CC through a vacuum line next time, as we have done?
And the jerky idle may be a vacuum leak.
Like you probably already haven't seen that a thousand times.
---
A brief write-up about MMO...
http://mmd.foxtail.com/Archives/Dige....08.18.20.html
---
These guys carry MMO and will ship orders internationally. Click on 'HELP' for shipping info. I have NOT done business with them b4, and so am not recommending them, per se...
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...html?E+scstore
I found them by searching for "marvel mystery oil" on Yahoo. There were no European distributors on the first page of results... I'd encourage you to look for someone over there who carries it, as a North American shop will surely nail you on shipping charges.
ttyl,
Amur_
But I think that everyone that has done this trick so far drives NAs. I don't know what to make of the way your TII reacted...AFA your engine already being clean, the fact that it's a rotary means that there will be *some* carbon in there. Unless maybe you're using a gasoline that's loaded with so-called cleaners. Over here, Petro-Canada is marketing something they call Tactrol which supposedly 'cleans as you drive.' The higher the octane you purchase, the more Tactrol they've supposedly added. Whatever. Still, our rotaries are designed to burn oil, and thus the continuing presence of carbon in the chambers.
Have you considered firing the CC through a vacuum line next time, as we have done?
And the jerky idle may be a vacuum leak.
Like you probably already haven't seen that a thousand times. ---
A brief write-up about MMO...
http://mmd.foxtail.com/Archives/Dige....08.18.20.html
---
These guys carry MMO and will ship orders internationally. Click on 'HELP' for shipping info. I have NOT done business with them b4, and so am not recommending them, per se...
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...html?E+scstore
I found them by searching for "marvel mystery oil" on Yahoo. There were no European distributors on the first page of results... I'd encourage you to look for someone over there who carries it, as a North American shop will surely nail you on shipping charges.
ttyl,
Amur_
05-11-02, 10:57 AM
#111
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Originally posted by Amur_
I know exactly SFA about turbos. But I think that everyone that has done this trick so far drives NAs. I don't know what to make of the way your TII reacted...
AFA your engine already being clean, the fact that it's a rotary means that there will be *some* carbon in there. Unless maybe you're using a gasoline that's loaded with so-called cleaners. Over here, Petro-Canada is marketing something they call Tactrol which supposedly 'cleans as you drive.' The higher the octane you purchase, the more Tactrol they've supposedly added. Whatever. Still, our rotaries are designed to burn oil, and thus the continuing presence of carbon in the chambers.
Have you considered firing the CC through a vacuum line next time, as we have done?
And the jerky idle may be a vacuum leak. Like you probably already haven't seen that a thousand times.
---
A brief write-up about MMO...
http://mmd.foxtail.com/Archives/Dige....08.18.20.html
---
These guys carry MMO and will ship orders internationally. Click on 'HELP' for shipping info. I have NOT done business with them b4, and so am not recommending them, per se...
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...html?E+scstore
I found them by searching for "marvel mystery oil" on Yahoo. There were no European distributors on the first page of results... I'd encourage you to look for someone over there who carries it, as a North American shop will surely nail you on shipping charges.
ttyl,
Amur_
I know exactly SFA about turbos.
But I think that everyone that has done this trick so far drives NAs. I don't know what to make of the way your TII reacted...AFA your engine already being clean, the fact that it's a rotary means that there will be *some* carbon in there. Unless maybe you're using a gasoline that's loaded with so-called cleaners. Over here, Petro-Canada is marketing something they call Tactrol which supposedly 'cleans as you drive.' The higher the octane you purchase, the more Tactrol they've supposedly added. Whatever. Still, our rotaries are designed to burn oil, and thus the continuing presence of carbon in the chambers.
Have you considered firing the CC through a vacuum line next time, as we have done?
And the jerky idle may be a vacuum leak.
Like you probably already haven't seen that a thousand times. ---
A brief write-up about MMO...
http://mmd.foxtail.com/Archives/Dige....08.18.20.html
---
These guys carry MMO and will ship orders internationally. Click on 'HELP' for shipping info. I have NOT done business with them b4, and so am not recommending them, per se...
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...html?E+scstore
I found them by searching for "marvel mystery oil" on Yahoo. There were no European distributors on the first page of results... I'd encourage you to look for someone over there who carries it, as a North American shop will surely nail you on shipping charges.
ttyl,
Amur_
We do have the Shell V-Power, which right now is only 95Oct, which is supposedly very effective. I used it for one tank, but I dont know if it made any difference. I think I'll wait until they come out with the 98Oct version
And you are right about the shipping cost from US to Europe (and in Greece). i.e because the BUR9EQ plugs are very expensive here (almost 120 euros), I tried to order them from the US (where I found them for 7,5 bucks a-piece). The plugs would set me back 4*7,5=30 bucks, and the shipping was a whopping 45 bucks more
So of course, I didnt order them...
07-10-03, 07:20 PM
#113
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After reading this whole thread a couple of times, I picked up some Sea Foam Deep Creep because it said it got rid of carbon AND lubricated. (I actually bought it to clean up some parts on my motorcycle but in the back of my mind was this thread.)
So, I whipped off a vacuum hose, revved her up a little and in successive long bursts, put about 1/3 to 1/2 of the can into my engine.
Then, since it was running roughly even after a several hig revs, I tried the ECU reset thing. Still running roughly and idling worse, not better. On the way to the freeway to open it up for a while, the idle still sucked - thought I'd hosed my car - not happy.
Anyhow, after about 20 miles of revving and redlining, it is purring like a kitten. This may not be objective, but it seems to accelerate much smoother and get up to the redline relatively quicker now. when I got off the freeway, the idle was much smoother than before.
When I got home, I dropped the idle from 1,000 to 800 and it's idling much smoother now at 800 than it did at 1,000 or so before this.
I'm converted. (Unless my car blows up next week.)
So, I whipped off a vacuum hose, revved her up a little and in successive long bursts, put about 1/3 to 1/2 of the can into my engine.
Then, since it was running roughly even after a several hig revs, I tried the ECU reset thing. Still running roughly and idling worse, not better. On the way to the freeway to open it up for a while, the idle still sucked - thought I'd hosed my car - not happy.
Anyhow, after about 20 miles of revving and redlining, it is purring like a kitten. This may not be objective, but it seems to accelerate much smoother and get up to the redline relatively quicker now. when I got off the freeway, the idle was much smoother than before.
When I got home, I dropped the idle from 1,000 to 800 and it's idling much smoother now at 800 than it did at 1,000 or so before this.
I'm converted. (Unless my car blows up next week.)
07-10-03, 07:48 PM
#114
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Way to bring this back from the dead! Sounds good. Post how it turns out in a couple of months/years.
How about anyone else that did this last year? Is it still running?
How about anyone else that did this last year? Is it still running?
07-10-03, 11:23 PM
#116
dear baby jesus...
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Anyone try using this stuff??
I used alot of it this week doing an intake manifold overhaul on my SVT Contour. Does a pretty damn good job of removing carbon and such...not as good as their Brakleen, but it's alot less harsh. I could tell it left a film behind that lucricated the surface. This may be more suitable for this application than standard Carb Cleaner. Just a thought.
Not much on their website, but it says this:
•Removes gum and varnish from throttle valves and body •Lubricates butterfly and all moving parts •Leaves behind a corrosion-resistant film
I used alot of it this week doing an intake manifold overhaul on my SVT Contour. Does a pretty damn good job of removing carbon and such...not as good as their Brakleen, but it's alot less harsh. I could tell it left a film behind that lucricated the surface. This may be more suitable for this application than standard Carb Cleaner. Just a thought.
Not much on their website, but it says this:
•Removes gum and varnish from throttle valves and body •Lubricates butterfly and all moving parts •Leaves behind a corrosion-resistant film
Last edited by Brad; 07-10-03 at 11:28 PM.
07-11-03, 12:04 AM
#117
Finally I have LSD
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My teacher said
I am still learning about rotory engines. According to my auto teacher you will notice that your piston will become really really clean. That is because the water in the combustion chamber become steam breaking down the carbon. so water can clean the insides of an engine. My teacher also said that when he use to work at a shop they would just spary water down the carb. But too much water will cause hydro lock up because water is not compresible and could blow a seal if too much water is in the combustion chamber.
07-11-03, 12:24 AM
#118
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Still no blown engines? 
I am thinking of doing this but just want to check back in and see that everyone that did it doesn't have any major problems. I know I must have a ton of carbon built up(even though I did the ATF trick not too long ago) since I am running hella rich until I hit the dyno up. I would love to get it all out if possible. Now does smoke come from the exhaust like the ATF trick or no?
I am thinking of doing this but just want to check back in and see that everyone that did it doesn't have any major problems. I know I must have a ton of carbon built up(even though I did the ATF trick not too long ago) since I am running hella rich until I hit the dyno up. I would love to get it all out if possible. Now does smoke come from the exhaust like the ATF trick or no?
07-11-03, 10:07 AM
#120
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Originally posted by SureShot
Has anyone tried weasel ****?
Has anyone tried weasel ****?
Weasel **** is midwest slang for naptha (AKA cigarette lighter fluid)
07-11-03, 11:23 AM
#121
REINCARNATED
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SO this thread came back from the dead huh... any blown engines? how's everyone's engine running so one ect..ect..
I am acctually going to try this this weekend... we'll see how it goes
any recommendations for a certain Carb cleaner?
-Markus
"I can't believe i'm going to try this.. but it sounds so good, lol"
I am acctually going to try this this weekend... we'll see how it goes
any recommendations for a certain Carb cleaner?
-Markus
"I can't believe i'm going to try this.. but it sounds so good, lol"
07-11-03, 01:21 PM
#123
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sorry I don't have time to read this whole thread but here is my two cents. DO NOT DO THIS WITH OUT DISCONNECTING YOUR CAT. THIS IS HOW CATS GET CLOGGED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If that happens then kiss power good bye. I used to work at a dealership and we did this all the time but never without diconnecting the cats. hold the rpms about 3k and make sure the car is warm for best results.