tweaked

iTrader: (4)

I have been doing this for a couple of years now. every 6 months, and she is as good as new.
Don't try this throught the turbo. if you want to do the turbo take it off the ca and do it.
the "treatment" does increase temps inside a great deal. the best way to do it is to spray for about 20 seconds while throttling the engine. then keep throttleinguntil the car runns smooth again. then repeat until the can is empty. the increase in heat is worse on the cat than anything else. but just to be safe I would do it this way all the time.

91vert

With all of these "decarboning" attempts posted out here recently, most of which I do not trust do a damn thing, I found some stuff at Auto Zone that I thought would be safe to use.

It is some stuff called Regane by Pennzoil. I was looking for some fuel injector cleaner and it was in that section. It is a bottle of clear yellow liquid that is formulated to clean carbon deposits from the combustion chamber as well as clean fuel injectors etc..

It had a picture of two pistons on the front of the bottle, one before treatment and one after...of course the one shown after treatment was totally clean .

I just added it to the gas tank a couple of days ago and haven't really driven much yet, but I figured it was pretty safe...no more harmful than fuel injector cleaner. My OMP is working fine (I hope), but I have always premixed with Marvel Mystery Oil when I fill up so hopefully that has been keeping things clean inside.

Here is a link describing that Regane product. Those of you who are a little leary of the water, ATF, or carb cleaner trick might want to give this a try.

http://www.pennzoil.com/TechData/pds...pdf/regane.pdf

tesla042

To those concerned about it stripping the lubrication from your engine... Try ADDING lubricant at the same time! In much the same way that you do the water treatment (stick vacuum hose in water).

May be nice to have a friend help with this..

Pop off two vacuum lines.. One you will blast the CC thru.. The other, stick in MMO or premix or something. Just really throttle how much gets in--it doesn't take much at all.

actually..alternating between the two may be a better idea... 10 seconds of CC, 1 of premix, etc..

-Tesla

DomFD3S

You do realize that certain chemicals are not to be mixed together right? Also, some chemicals when mixed will render the resulting chemical to be useless or make it not as effective. Where did you get the idea to just arbitrarily add the chemicals together? Also, your specific instructions on how to add the chemicals into the engine absolutely amazes me.

Here is a specific question. What lubricant do you suggest we add in addition to the carb cleaner? You mentioned "MMO or premix or something". You do not know what exactly to put in.

Also, the water treatment. Who decided to put water in an engine? An engine obviously works due to combustion. Fuel + Fire = Explosion = Power. Why in the world would someone want to put H2O in there is way beyond me. Sure mechanics use water on an engine...when the engine is in pieces and the parts are being washed in a parts washing bin!

Let us believe that what you're saying works. You end up lubing the internals. Think about this. The apex seals are kept in place basically by friction. What happens when you lube something? It reduces friction. That is what the lubricant will do. Now, what does the carb cleaner do? It'll eat away or dissolve the carbon buildup, cleaning the surfaces all the internals. Now, what has happend. You have dissolved all carbon and reduced friction. You now have very clean and very slick surfaces everywhere. How can the apex seals stay in place?

Think about a Merry Go Round. Everyone is able to hang on when things are slow. What happens when you speed things up. It's harder to hang on. What happens when you reduce friction w/ the introduction of a lube (ex: sweat on the palms of your hands)? You lose your grip and subsequently fly off.

Amur_

Yowch! Somebody's in a bitch today! Are we talking about CC or abortion? Somebody should change the subject line...

Dumping in CC and a random oil sounds interesting. I would hope that pulling 2 vac lines at once doesn't snuff the engine.

If you dump both in at once, you may dilute the bolt of CC. Too little and... well... you're no worse off than A_D and BB7. One at a time? If the OMP is going all the time, then wouldn't putting oil in after CC be a waste of time (the OMP is already re-coating the surfaces...)

We need Superman to stand beside an engine and watch what's happening inside while somebody does this. Anybody got a spare x-ray or MRI kicking around in the back of a shop somewhere? Dump a barium milkshake in with the gas and away we go.

ttyl,
Amur_

mazdaspeed7

Have you ever even seen the inside of a rotary?!?! the rotor housing keeps the apex seals in place. The apex seals are ther to SEAL the gap between the rotor and rotor housing. No friction? The engine will run better. No friction losses, better sealing, especially at higher rpm, the list goes on. The apex seals cannot fall out of their slot unless they shatter.

Now, lack of lubrication. Do you realize that cold starting your car is much worse as far as abnormal wear goes? There is NO oil on the moving parts when you cold start. Its bad for the engine, but how many engines blow up after just a few cold starts? I cnat think of any. And the apex seals can last hours without lubrication. Its really bad for them, but they can.

Say the CC dissolved ALL of the lubricating oil for the apex seals. Running this way for 5 seconds will be about the same as one cold start. You stop for a few seconds, letting the lubricants build back up, and do it again. You just had the same effect as 2 cold starts.

Now how many cold starts does it take to blow an engine? More than I can or want to count.

DomFD3S

Yes I have seen the internals of a rotary. As a matter of fact, a 13B-REW is sitting in pieces in my friend's garage. I do agree w/ you that the apex seals WILL NOT arbitrarily just fall out. My example was the best that I could come up with at the moment.

However, to stay pertinent to the topic, I would say that the use of carb cleaner has not been verified by a reputable rotary tuner or Mazda. Since this has yet to be verified, I would still stand by the position to avoid using carb cleaner.

87jap951

I also wouldn't use it, but I am looking forward to hearing what the people who have used it say after hours/days/weeks/years after using it...same with the ATF and MMO...Anyone ever do a dyno before & after?

Bambam7

This explains why every new engine, which is new and clean, falls apart immediately, and it's only untill the internals have been blasted with diesel truck exhaust for a few days that they'll run right! That's why there are engine carboning shops on every block.

Sorry DomFD3S- I know you already took that back, but I had already thought of this reply before you did that....

About dynoing results-
It's pretty hard to to a proper experiment on this- since every engine is different, and has been subjected to different conditions, and has different dirty and clean conditions.

There are just too many control groups to worry about- but you could get a general idea about cleaning as a whole. I think a comparison between methods would be impossible, because the diffeneces between them all wouldn't be too much, and induvidual engine variants would be greater than that, masking the results.

And back a bit- how can a product degrease and lube at the same time??
Well, CC is an emulsifier- it breaks up the structural properties of hard grease and carbon- defeating the molucularity polarity and hydrophobic properties that don't allow it to be dissolved by H20. A very lightweight oil, made with different properties than the types that the CC degrades, can very well lubricate enough to protect the damn engine for 5 minutes!!!
Gees, it's not like I'm running sand through it. (Though I did with an old 4.2L AMC in a jeep that I used to off road with- and it knocked about 20 HP off of it.)

I hope by now we have cleared up the concerns about lube and others though.
Look- if you don't like it, don't do it, but you are a little too concerned.
Anyways.....
Wow, this has gotten pretty adversarial.
Man, did I open a can of worms with this post!

Hey- I'm thinking about putting a V-8 in my RX-7, What do you think about that??

bcty

i have a question.. i am helping my buddy with his turbo daytona.. i was think about spraying some of this stuff into his engine to help with his turbo and help clean and polish the inside of his engine... would i be able to spray in into the intercooler since it feeds the turbo and the car or would i have to spray it into air filter part to get it sucked up by there?? what would work best and what carb cleaner should i use? what should i look for on the label? thanks!!!!!

adamlewis

BamBam knows his ****!!! Thats fo sho!

execelon1

normally i don't post a response to if's and maybe's but i sure would like to try some of the weasel ****. where can i find a weasel that will give me enough to use ?last time i saw one they looked pretty small to me . i wonder how many you would have to have to get 12 oz of urine from them and could i just get him to pee straight into the the vacum line, and if he does this is it at all possible that he might just get his ***** stuck or even worse sucked into the engine ? now i can see this as being a very serious problem for both of us; the doner loosing his ****** and me being charged with animal cruelty , not to mention that now i have a non piston engine with a rod in it. i think that i'm just going to stick with the MMO it really does work. all kidding aside the MMO is a great product, it won't hurt your engine and it WILL remove ALL the sludge. i have a 2.9 bronco ll that had a sticking lifter from lack of proper maintance from the previous owner and it freed it up and ended the valve clicking noises by removing the old crap that had built up over the years and opened up the oil galleies to let the oil travel freely. PEACE , ex...

mazdaspeed7

MMO is the greatest thing ever. I use it in my rebuilt motor(14K miles now) every other oil change, keeps everything spotlessly clean.

peejay

Bingo!

I tried this at the track, because I didn't have enough time between runs to wait for the engine to cool down so I could pull the plugs and clean the carbon off of them. Ended up spraying a whole can of carb cleaner into the engine.

On the way to the gas station after racing, the engine started running like total crap. Would not idle at ALL, made very little power, sounded funny. Filled up with gas, tried to drive away... no starty! Went back in, bought a bottle of ATF, dumped a teaspoonful into each rotor, and VAROOM! Fired right up and idled beautifully. (The gas station attendant was not amused with the smoke show )

Never had a problem again after that day. I'm convinced that it was the car cleaner's fault.

Samps

I sprayed a lil carb cleaner in a vacuum hose this weekend and the car started running like crap. Then I got a pressure sensor code on the idiot lights. Apparently some carb cleaner got to the pressure sensor and clogged it up. I sprayed some electrical contact cleaner into the nipple on the pressure sensor and it seemed to fix it. I am not getting the code anymore and the car idles and runs perfectly. I will never spray carb cleaner into the intake again. ATF worked wonders though.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

I use MMO & carb cleaner to clean out my 5.7l truck, works like a charm. Took my valve ticks away almost instantly, and the performance increase was more than noticable.

turboGXL

I'd like to set up a thread in about six months polling to see how many of your engines are still running after this.
Not just because of putting carb cleaner in your engine, but just for the fact you all are so willing to take these risks w/out actually knowing the consequences.


LMFAO weasel ****!!!!
Makes me wonder what else you do to your engines...

Felix Wankel

If you don't, I will.

Samps

I'll be the first to reply to your thread.

I used ATF in my motor about 1 year ago, and the car is still running beautifully.

Vroomaster

I am using this cc called deep creep, made by sea foam. I tested it for both cleaning ability, flamability, and lubrication quality (nothing scientific mind you). I found it to be a good cleaner, it left a decent lube residue, and burned ok. It also specifically tells you how to use it on you motor. Check it out, It was recomended to me by a bud who works at NAPA.

Vroomaster

bump

Fingers

I tried the Motomaster carb clean yesterday... My motor was rebuilt a week and a half ago. The performance was noticeable, and the car definitely starts alot faster than it did, and floods less easily. I used half the can (staying on the safe side). Today I'd like to apply Marvel Mystery Oil, but I don't know how much to add to the gas/oil. Has anyone used this product? The directions on the back are very stupid. They don't even say to use it in your oil. Oh well
Thanks
-Ross

Amur_

Okay, I took the plunge today. Picked up a can of Gunk Carb Medic (price was okay and was the nearest stuff that wasn't Motomaster.) Also got a thing of MMO - saving it for my next oil change in about 6 weeks. Gonna dump a bit in the tank with my next fill up, too.

I pulled the top vac line off the plenum and gave 'er ****. Bad move. One second of spraying and it started spewing back out at me, and onto the windshield and the fender. Doesn't take much to fill the line.

I used a little less than half the can. And the smell coming out of the exhaust during this was a tad harsh. I hit the engine in short bursts, about 10 seconds of bursts of spray, wait ten while she catches her breath, lather, rinse, repeat, etc. Less than an hour after this I was delivering pizza (i.e. driving like a crazy bastard.) And y'know...

It made a difference. She had snap that I've been missing for a while. I wouldn't care to speculate on HP gains cuz I wouldn't know wtf I was talking about. She's definitely come out of this with more of the Verve. I'd recommend this to anyone.

That having been said, I have a coupla questions.

- BB7 recommended resetting the ECU. Isn't the FD ECU the only one that can be reset? I did the reset anyway, and nothing happened/changed.

- BB7 also mentions using a pressure sensor line to get CC to the rear rotor. Would this be the vac line from the boost sensor (behind the air cleaner)? Otherwise, I'm kinda lost without a specific description for where to find the hose.

ttyl,
Amur_, who, while delivering tonight, saw a white Sunbird with black racing stripes and lettering spelling out NEWFIE in the back window. Rice knows no bounds...

Agent_D

iTrader: (2)

my car is still running strong, i still redline it more than i can count every day, with ~180k miles id say my engine is doing alright but i still have my damn high rpm hesitation, gotta fix that or im gonna kick something lol, i think ill put some MMO in my oil and gas tomorrow

Taranis

I would also like to know what you guys recommend for MMO. i.e. how much in oil/how much per tankfull how often?

I'm at 194,00 on the OD and reckon I'm due for a carbon cleaning.

Anyone?

- JB