Running Carb Cleaner DIRECTLY into engine, like H2o trick - MAN!! Read result!!!!!
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
Carb cleaner is very corrosive to aluminium (in most cases). There is exposed aluminium around your exhaust ports, spark plug holes and metering oil nozzles. So theoretically, this could have happened.
Yet another reason why the only thing that should go into an engine is fuel, oil and coolant.
Yet another reason why the only thing that should go into an engine is fuel, oil and coolant.
I'm your huckleberry..
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 736
Likes: 0
From: Tucson, AZ
There is a carbon cleaner system. My advanced engine teacher is going to hook it up to my car to clean out the carbon; it uses a special liquid to soften the carbon into a gel...almost liquid, and then it gets burned/ thrown out the exhaust. He say's that it does pretty damn good at cleaning the cat. too.
Last edited by Steel; Sep 24, 2004 at 01:47 PM.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
Also great at causing large chunks of carbon to fall off the rotors and jam against the seals and housing...There will be parts of that hard carbon that the stuff will not penetrate.
People put WAY too much thought into "engine cleaning" and "decarbonizing". If you don't want carbon buildup:
1. Don't use cheap gas
2. Use the proper grade of gas
3. Keep the car in GOOD TUNE
4. Don't make a lot of short trips
5. Drive the car hard once and a while
Probably in that order too....
People put WAY too much thought into "engine cleaning" and "decarbonizing". If you don't want carbon buildup:
1. Don't use cheap gas
2. Use the proper grade of gas
3. Keep the car in GOOD TUNE
4. Don't make a lot of short trips
5. Drive the car hard once and a while
Probably in that order too....
So what's a good gas for my 88 na? besides 87 octane. is there a specific brand I should be using? Also does anyone have a writeup on the water injection thing? any negative effects on that?
-Andrew
-Andrew
Refined Valley Dude
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,283
Likes: 2
From: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Carb cleaner is very corrosive to aluminium (in most cases).
11. With the carb completely disassembled, and all grinding completed, start the cleaning. This is the most important part of the rebuild because it is the varnish and grime in the passages that causes a poor running carb. We found that the carb body was too big to fit into the carb dip, so we used spray solvent to clean it. We let the metering blocks and bowls soak in the dip over night. A word of caution: Most carb dips and solvents will corrode aluminum, so use only spray cleaner to clean the base plate.
Be sure to follow the label's time schedule for keeping the carburetor in the solvent because it can destroy the metal parts if you leave them in the dip for too long. If the dip needs additional time to remove deposits completely, remove and clean the parts and then repeat the process rather than exceed the recommended time limits in a single dip. I have seen some cases where aluminum parts were pitted so badly from excessive dip times that they required replacement.
Both items caution to avoid prolonged exposure. Unfortunately, no one will say what a typical soak time is, although "over night" sounds like at least 8 hours to me. The first one recommends using spray cleaner, which is what we've all used. Why spray cleaner? Because it's not on the aluminum very long before it evaporates. Other pages comment on using compressed air to blast the parts after using cc, but without any comments/cautions about damage from prolonged exposure.
Running cc through a vac line doesn't put very much into the engine. miller said he ran the engine for a time after spraying. There would not have been enough cc left in the keg to do any harm to the housings.
Also great at causing large chunks of carbon to fall off the rotors and jam against the seals and housing...
1st time owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
From: Airdrie, Alberta
Just wanted to say that after reading this thread from start to finish that this is one helluva thread. Great comments, points, questions, and testimonials. Although it's not exactly scientific, it certainly appears to have a 'real life' appeal to it.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 311
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From: Parkersburg, West Virginia
I'm going to try this as soon as I have my engine to where it'll do more than 4K RPM anyway, as I'm fairly sure that my engine has seen more than it's fair share of carbon (176K miles). I'm hoping maybe this'll give it back some of the power it had when I first bought it as well.
It's Whatever
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: Ft Laud, FL
Originally Posted by Amur_
You use the line I've circled and traced in red. This one line will deliver the CC to both rotors. It goes to all four of your OMP injectors.
edit: nevermind, i see the other pic on page 11. That's good enough.
Last edited by Prowla RX7; Nov 27, 2004 at 12:40 AM.
resurrection:
I think im the first to perform this on an FD. I just ran abou half a can through both rotors, there are two nipples on the FD upper intake manifold thaty appear to go to either rotor, one is the BOV and the other is the auxiliary nipple ewhich ive used for a boost guage. Anyways i put some MMO in my gas tank and my oil tank and brought my car to my buddies house and ran about half a can through the manifold trying to half it to each rotor and it definitely smoothed out my idle. Ill post more results tomorrow when ill run the other half of the can but im pretty content for now. It smoked and sputtered a lot as i expected but it worked. I used sea foam deep clean. i let it idle for about 20 10-15minutes afterwards to clean it out.
/barban
I think im the first to perform this on an FD. I just ran abou half a can through both rotors, there are two nipples on the FD upper intake manifold thaty appear to go to either rotor, one is the BOV and the other is the auxiliary nipple ewhich ive used for a boost guage. Anyways i put some MMO in my gas tank and my oil tank and brought my car to my buddies house and ran about half a can through the manifold trying to half it to each rotor and it definitely smoothed out my idle. Ill post more results tomorrow when ill run the other half of the can but im pretty content for now. It smoked and sputtered a lot as i expected but it worked. I used sea foam deep clean. i let it idle for about 20 10-15minutes afterwards to clean it out.
/barban
rotor withdrawal
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 571
Likes: 0
From: Alvordton, OH 43501
Originally Posted by Bambam7
Well, it's pretty hard to spray any sort of carb cleaner or anything into the engine, since the AFM is so far away... and a PITA...
So I thought about the water trick with the vacuum line, and tried it.. whatever, no difference.
Anyways, I decided to try running carb cleaner through a vaccuum line.
I popped a vacuum line off the intake manifold, and stuck the little red spray tube (you know the ones, comes with all spray lubes) into the vac line, stuck the throttle at about 2000 rpms, and pressed the valve on the carb cleaner- letting it all get sucked in
I emptied the entire can into the vacuum line!!! (Took a few minutes) and of course the car ran like crap while it was going through....
The car runs much smoother... and TO MY AMAZEMENT... I looked at my exhaust tips, and the insides were clean!!!!! A lot of the carbon in the exhaust was actually cleaned out!!!.
I am guessing by this evidence that the inside of the engine probably looks like a mirror.
I'll do this probably a couple time a year.... anyone think of any drawbacks??? It can probably clean up cats too!! (not the 4 legged kind)
Geez, it's common sense that a chemical like this, which dissolves carbon on contact, and lubricates too would work better than water!
Dan.
So I thought about the water trick with the vacuum line, and tried it.. whatever, no difference.
Anyways, I decided to try running carb cleaner through a vaccuum line.
I popped a vacuum line off the intake manifold, and stuck the little red spray tube (you know the ones, comes with all spray lubes) into the vac line, stuck the throttle at about 2000 rpms, and pressed the valve on the carb cleaner- letting it all get sucked in
I emptied the entire can into the vacuum line!!! (Took a few minutes) and of course the car ran like crap while it was going through....
The car runs much smoother... and TO MY AMAZEMENT... I looked at my exhaust tips, and the insides were clean!!!!! A lot of the carbon in the exhaust was actually cleaned out!!!.
I am guessing by this evidence that the inside of the engine probably looks like a mirror.
I'll do this probably a couple time a year.... anyone think of any drawbacks??? It can probably clean up cats too!! (not the 4 legged kind)
Geez, it's common sense that a chemical like this, which dissolves carbon on contact, and lubricates too would work better than water!
Dan.
Whip it good
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 229
Likes: 0
From: Calgary
wow, that took me 1 1/2 hour to read. General concencus is that it works great. How are you guys running after this long? I'll probably end up doing this soon, maybe I'll put an airfilter on my exhaust tips to check what ends up coming out.
(the pics are all gone now)
(the pics are all gone now)
Hobby or mental illness?
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 478
Likes: 0
From: SW Washington
Originally Posted by SUPEROTARYPOWER
I was always led to believe anything made of Rubber will dry up and crack from Carbuerator Cleaner!!! Has anyone experienced Oil Seal problems after attempting this cleaning process
Refined Valley Dude
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,283
Likes: 2
From: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
Originally Posted by C-Murder
awsome, how long have you been doing it? how often do you do it?
Juts posting to show that doing the cc trick at all does not kill engines...
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: St Andrews, Fife
I used to have a non turbo 12A engine. Used "Wynn's" Carburetter and Fuel injector cleaner on it once. I found that it really helped throttle responce, and my car seemed to regain that little "x" factor it had when I had first had it. Then it blew an oil seal, swiftly followed by a coolant seal when it ran out of oil. (Damn thing used lost a good 4 litres in 7 odd miles) But with 120,000 miles on an original engine, I don't suspect the cleaner. Since reading this thread last week I got the can out again, and stuffed the cleaner down the recommended vacuum lines. Good results - the car idles again smoothly, with much less "brap brap brap"than it used to. And no coolant lines have died either.
Incidentally, engine is on 9,500 miles since Rotechnics rebuild. Has made it feel as smooth as it was when it was a 500 mile rebuild.
Incidentally, engine is on 9,500 miles since Rotechnics rebuild. Has made it feel as smooth as it was when it was a 500 mile rebuild.
commit(rnd()&sense-acts)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 378
Likes: 0
From: Lutherville MD
I've read this entire thread. Lots of opinions, some facts, nice to know that some of the folks ( and their cars! ) are still around after so many years!
One of the things that I thought recently is that what is going on inside the engine is probably that you're cleaning out the vac system with this technique, not that any thing is happening to any of the seals on the rotors. This would seem to be corroborated by the changes people are seeing in idle oscillation (this seems to correct it). Other reading shows this is almost always a vac problem.
Thoughts?
One of the things that I thought recently is that what is going on inside the engine is probably that you're cleaning out the vac system with this technique, not that any thing is happening to any of the seals on the rotors. This would seem to be corroborated by the changes people are seeing in idle oscillation (this seems to correct it). Other reading shows this is almost always a vac problem.
Thoughts?
Recovering Rotaryist
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
From: West TX
That is a very similar process to the one I used to do at the autoshop I used to work at. Although im not too sure bout trying it on my 7 though. The instructions for the process clearly stated that it shouldnt be done on deisels or rotorys.
