Whenever I start my car cold or shut it off and turn it back on after few minutes it runs just on 1 rotor for like 10-20 secs. I would rev it allittle and 2 rotor would kick in. I know I have a coolant seal leak inside engine, but could that be causing it. I also can't usually start it unless I pull fuel pump fuse. I have new injectors and they are not leaking. Car idles rought SOMETIMES, it varies between 900 and 400 rpm! I also occasionally get very nasty vibration when it's idling rought, but as I said not always. Last times I checkec comp it was good, so what could be the problem.

 

Time to check compression and spark. I think that a coolant inside the rotor housing could cause this problem. At this point i would say you need to start thinking about a rebuild.

Anyone else think so too, or am i completely off?

 

yeah sounds like rebuild time

 

 

thx for input.

I guess I'll have to brake my piggybank :p

 

that is exactly what happened to my engine before it wouldn't run at all anymore. The water seals blew.

 

Yeah, this is common. The water leaks in, preventing the rotor from firing until it can blow it all out and create some compression again.

 

ok so here's another question. Ever since I got the car it would do the symptoms described above. After starting it would spit white smoke for a while until it cleared. About two months ago I used some K&W stop leak shlt in my cooling system and it helped alot, but didn't fix the problem. Well funny thing is, couple days ago in 99% I stopped having this problem with one rotor being flooded with coolant. I still got to pull the fuse, but the car starts much easier and runs on both rotors and doesn't smoke. How could this have fixed itself? I have to check if I'm still loosing coolant in my reservoir. I probably do, but it makes me wonder if it's related to spark then. Could a coil be failing?

 

I think it's the indelible love for my car

 

You might have just put enough gunk in the cooling system to have temporarily plugged the leak for now. If you're not pressurizing the coolant system when running, then most likely the leak is in the upper half of the rotor housing that contains your "bad" rotor. As soon as you perform a startup, this coolant is being compressed and "steamed" against the plugs, hence you're running roughly for just a little bit. If you've "temporarily" fixed it for now, you may just yet have some time to save up all the money & parts you'll need for a nice rebuild...