RTEK 1.8, 4 x 750cc injectors, Apexi Neo MAXED - STILL LEAN UNDER WOT
05-12-12, 01:22 PM
#76
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UPDATE: with car idling i grounded each secondary injector at ECU... Front and rear both bogged engine down and killed it = they are working and i have already confirmed secondary injectors are getting signal while running (earlier post)...
Fuel pressure has been checked... According to gauge, at idle its sitting at 50-52 psi (i assume this may not be accurate, but i was checking for PRESSURE DROP)... Under load (no boost) it drops to 42-44 psi and raises up and HOLDS 52-ish psi at 8-9 psi boost. AFRs hit mid-12s under WOT... For the skeptics out there, here's proof: (at beginning of video, the needle is pointed at 50-52psi.. For referance)
So... All i got is either my wideband is **** (new sensor in mail), i need larger injectors and/or time for stage 2 RTEK
... Yup
Fuel pressure has been checked... According to gauge, at idle its sitting at 50-52 psi (i assume this may not be accurate, but i was checking for PRESSURE DROP)... Under load (no boost) it drops to 42-44 psi and raises up and HOLDS 52-ish psi at 8-9 psi boost. AFRs hit mid-12s under WOT... For the skeptics out there, here's proof: (at beginning of video, the needle is pointed at 50-52psi.. For referance)
So... All i got is either my wideband is **** (new sensor in mail), i need larger injectors and/or time for stage 2 RTEK
... Yup
05-12-12, 05:51 PM
#77
The walbro/stock fpr combo is probably inflating your idle pressure reading and throwing off your baseline. Once running, the fuel has somewhere to go instead of backing up at the regulator. Considering that, it seems alright to me.
Get rid of the SAFC and see what afr changes you see. You've looked at almost everything else.
Get rid of the SAFC and see what afr changes you see. You've looked at almost everything else.
05-12-12, 07:18 PM
#78
Senior Member
minimum FP occurs @ minimum manifold pressure (max vacuum) then rises along with the rise in manifold pressure. the drop you're experiencing under load simply should not be happening if the pump and FPR are working correctly. sure your FPR is a boost reference type? doesn't look like it.
05-13-12, 12:43 PM
#79
New wideband sensor installed and actually preheats!!!
.. But, still lean on WOT. *Its mid-11s up to WOT though.
... While i MAY not be maxing my current injectors i don't see why installing larger secondaries couldn't fix my situation >*http://www.injectordynamics.com/ID1000.html
.. But, still lean on WOT. *Its mid-11s up to WOT though.
... While i MAY not be maxing my current injectors i don't see why installing larger secondaries couldn't fix my situation >*http://www.injectordynamics.com/ID1000.html
05-13-12, 02:40 PM
#80
New wideband sensor installed and actually preheats!!!
.. But, still lean on WOT. *Its mid-11s up to WOT though.
... While i MAY not be maxing my current injectors i don't see why installing larger secondaries couldn't fix my situation >*http://www.injectordynamics.comD1000.html
.. But, still lean on WOT. *Its mid-11s up to WOT though.
... While i MAY not be maxing my current injectors i don't see why installing larger secondaries couldn't fix my situation >*http://www.injectordynamics.comD1000.html
What is so difficult for you to comprehend about the idea of finding the real problem and fixing it? If you had an oil leak, would u just keep dumping in more oil or try to fix why its leaking to begin with? (rhetorical, please dont answer).
Fix your fuel pressure issue and stop looking for ways to waste money on parts you dont need for workaround fixes that dont solve the real problem.
05-13-12, 04:21 PM
#83
Running that fuel pressure on an fd pump w/ 550/720's is enough to get you into 10's our even 9's with your setup so something doesnt add up.
Bear in mind that pressure =/= flow. The greater the restriction, the greater the pressure. As many have already suggested, an aftermarket fpr would be a very good idea.
Open your tank and examine it for sediment. If you find any flush the lines and check the baskets of the injectors for. The only time I've seen these symptoms was when crud got into the fuel system and clogged the secondary injectors. All the electronics tested fine, fuel pressure was good, ecu signal was verified, but the problem persisted. When the injectors were pulled to be swapped the baskets were almost completely filled with crap.
Also, just so were clear, you don't still have that carb filter in place pre pump do you?
Bear in mind that pressure =/= flow. The greater the restriction, the greater the pressure. As many have already suggested, an aftermarket fpr would be a very good idea.
Open your tank and examine it for sediment. If you find any flush the lines and check the baskets of the injectors for. The only time I've seen these symptoms was when crud got into the fuel system and clogged the secondary injectors. All the electronics tested fine, fuel pressure was good, ecu signal was verified, but the problem persisted. When the injectors were pulled to be swapped the baskets were almost completely filled with crap.
Also, just so were clear, you don't still have that carb filter in place pre pump do you?
05-13-12, 08:45 PM
#85
How fast should it take to kill/flood out the engine IDLING after grounding (forcing 100% duty cycle) on one secondary injector? I already tested this while idling to confirm the injectors were actually working.. I was suprised it took a few seconds
05-13-12, 09:26 PM
#86
Senior Member
i know i'm wasting my time cause i don't think u give a s$!t to truly think about the advice u're getting. grounding the injectors as u have while idling only proves the injectors responds when grounded. it doesn't prove the ecu is cycling them when supposed to. wish the best of luck in solving your issue. p.s., you have a sweet engine assembly w/400+ whp potential why in the world did you limit yourself to the 1.8?
05-13-12, 09:31 PM
#87
i know i'm wasting my time cause i don't think u give a s$!t to truly think about the advice u're getting. grounding the injectors as u have while idling only proves the injectors responds when grounded. it doesn't prove the ecu is cycling them when supposed to. wish the best of luck in solving your issue. p.s., you have a sweet engine assembly w/400+ whp potential why in the world did you limit yourself to the 1.8?
Last edited by RW-7; 05-13-12 at 10:13 PM. Reason: Removed the name calling. Infraction given.
05-14-12, 11:47 AM
#88
i know i'm wasting my time cause i don't think u give a s$!t to truly think about the advice u're getting. grounding the injectors as u have while idling only proves the injectors responds when grounded. it doesn't prove the ecu is cycling them when supposed to. wish the best of luck in solving your issue. p.s., you have a sweet engine assembly w/400+ whp potential why in the world did you limit yourself to the 1.8?
Don't know where you got that silly grounding "test" but that doesn't tell you very much. Check the tank and remove/inspect your injectors. Nothing you post will have any value until you do this.
05-14-12, 01:02 PM
#90
My wiring and ECU were originally installed with a stock turbo2. When it popped I built this one and still run old ECU. RTEK has told me I need their stage 2 ECU to work with my porting and tune my fuel curve.... That's actually a reasonable $$ as I just have to pay to upgrade my 1.8
Definitely look into a physical obstruction as suggested above.
Is the SAFC removed and still acting the same way?
Are all your electronics N370 or N374?
An rtek 1.8 should be able to handle a stock turbo on a streetport. Definitely not optimized, but it shouldn't run lean like you are seeing.
05-14-12, 06:40 PM
#91
Well, RTEK is saying the 1.8 can not compinsate for the ported engine and that he has seen this before on ported engines. He recommends the stage 2 RTEK due to sensor and injector duty cycle data logging and ability to add more fuel where i need it without "teasing" the ECU into thinking it's just flowing more air with AFC
05-14-12, 08:07 PM
#93
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Why did you even bother starting a thread and asking opinions about your problem if you're not going to take anyone's advice? You've been told multiple times that the RTEK can run your engine and something else is the culprit.
05-14-12, 08:18 PM
#95
the rtek 1.x series are crap. they compensate for larger injectors, so what have you gained by running larger injectors?? it will run lean every time. has anyone really logged decent AFRs with the 1.8? even rtek says some sort of fuel control is needed with the 1.x series. either rtek 2.1 or full standalone is the only way to go
05-14-12, 08:20 PM
#96
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Just saying, the Rtek can handle your ported engine...just like everyone has told you. The fuel injectors are big enough.....just like everyone has told you. Take everybody's advice and pull the injectors and check the screens.
05-17-12, 06:49 PM
#98
The good: RCs were within 1% of 750cc and only 0.5% difference between the two
The bad: Injector Dynamics injectors failed... One was only flowing 651cc... Here's a pic of their paperwork
soooo.... Replace with 750cc injectors or go bigger and lean out with Neo? Hmmmm.....
The bad: Injector Dynamics injectors failed... One was only flowing 651cc... Here's a pic of their paperwork
soooo.... Replace with 750cc injectors or go bigger and lean out with Neo? Hmmmm.....
05-17-12, 07:07 PM
#99
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i had an FD with a stuck secondary and it would idle with that much fuel, big clouds of smoke, but it would stay running