that's your problem. the fuel pressure should be changing with the boost gauge. either its hooked to the wrong place, or the regulator is bad...

 

The walbro/stock fpr combo is probably inflating your idle pressure reading and throwing off your baseline. Once running, the fuel has somewhere to go instead of backing up at the regulator. Considering that, it seems alright to me.

Get rid of the SAFC and see what afr changes you see. You've looked at almost everything else.

 

minimum FP occurs @ minimum manifold pressure (max vacuum) then rises along with the rise in manifold pressure. the drop you're experiencing under load simply should not be happening if the pump and FPR are working correctly. sure your FPR is a boost reference type? doesn't look like it.

 

New wideband sensor installed and actually preheats!!!
.. But, still lean on WOT. *Its mid-11s up to WOT though.
... While i MAY not be maxing my current injectors i don't see why installing larger secondaries couldn't fix my situation >*http://www.injectordynamics.com/ID1000.html

 

BECAUSE YOUR INJECTORS AREN'T YOUR PROBLEM.

What is so difficult for you to comprehend about the idea of finding the real problem and fixing it? If you had an oil leak, would u just keep dumping in more oil or try to fix why its leaking to begin with? (rhetorical, please dont answer).

Fix your fuel pressure issue and stop looking for ways to waste money on parts you dont need for workaround fixes that dont solve the real problem.

 

How is 52 psi at boost insuficient? If i ran FSM spec pressure it would be ~39 psi at idle and 49 psi at 10 lbs of boost...

 

in the video you posted, your fuel pressure is all over the place.. and it appears like it drops as you get closer to redline too

 

Running that fuel pressure on an fd pump w/ 550/720's is enough to get you into 10's our even 9's with your setup so something doesnt add up.

Bear in mind that pressure =/= flow. The greater the restriction, the greater the pressure. As many have already suggested, an aftermarket fpr would be a very good idea.

Open your tank and examine it for sediment. If you find any flush the lines and check the baskets of the injectors for. The only time I've seen these symptoms was when crud got into the fuel system and clogged the secondary injectors. All the electronics tested fine, fuel pressure was good, ecu signal was verified, but the problem persisted. When the injectors were pulled to be swapped the baskets were almost completely filled with crap.

Also, just so were clear, you don't still have that carb filter in place pre pump do you?

 

... Yeah.. I'm about at the point of removing secondaries and having them cleaned and flowed... Again... Lol

.. No more prefilter.. Just turbo2 filter AFTER pump.

 

How fast should it take to kill/flood out the engine IDLING after grounding (forcing 100% duty cycle) on one secondary injector? I already tested this while idling to confirm the injectors were actually working.. I was suprised it took a few seconds

 

i know i'm wasting my time cause i don't think u give a s$!t to truly think about the advice u're getting. grounding the injectors as u have while idling only proves the injectors responds when grounded. it doesn't prove the ecu is cycling them when supposed to. wish the best of luck in solving your issue. p.s., you have a sweet engine assembly w/400+ whp potential why in the world did you limit yourself to the 1.8?

 

My wiring and ECU were originally installed with a stock turbo2. When it popped I built this one and still run old ECU. RTEK has told me I need their stage 2 ECU to work with my porting and tune my fuel curve.... That's actually a reasonable $$ as I just have to pay to upgrade my 1.8

 

+1
Don't know where you got that silly grounding "test" but that doesn't tell you very much. Check the tank and remove/inspect your injectors. Nothing you post will have any value until you do this.

 

Dump the rtek. Dump the SAFC. Replace them with something capable of doing the job. End of story.

 

So this entire setup has worked on a previous engine without the rising AFR's?

Definitely look into a physical obstruction as suggested above.

Is the SAFC removed and still acting the same way?
Are all your electronics N370 or N374?

An rtek 1.8 should be able to handle a stock turbo on a streetport. Definitely not optimized, but it shouldn't run lean like you are seeing.

 

Well, RTEK is saying the 1.8 can not compinsate for the ported engine and that he has seen this before on ported engines. He recommends the stage 2 RTEK due to sensor and injector duty cycle data logging and ability to add more fuel where i need it without "teasing" the ECU into thinking it's just flowing more air with AFC

 

.. Another note... When it's still running on the cold map it runs rich as $#!T.. Usually pegging my wideband full rich.. even 11s under WOT (have only tested when car was warm but JUST before the thermostat opens)

 

Why did you even bother starting a thread and asking opinions about your problem if you're not going to take anyone's advice? You've been told multiple times that the RTEK can run your engine and something else is the culprit.

 

Ease up... I'm trying to figure this out too

 

the rtek 1.x series are crap. they compensate for larger injectors, so what have you gained by running larger injectors?? it will run lean every time. has anyone really logged decent AFRs with the 1.8? even rtek says some sort of fuel control is needed with the 1.x series. either rtek 2.1 or full standalone is the only way to go

 

Just saying, the Rtek can handle your ported engine...just like everyone has told you. The fuel injectors are big enough.....just like everyone has told you. Take everybody's advice and pull the injectors and check the screens.

 

... Taking them in tomorrow...

 

The good: RCs were within 1% of 750cc and only 0.5% difference between the two

The bad: Injector Dynamics injectors failed... One was only flowing 651cc... Here's a pic of their paperwork

soooo.... Replace with 750cc injectors or go bigger and lean out with Neo? Hmmmm.....

 

i had an FD with a stuck secondary and it would idle with that much fuel, big clouds of smoke, but it would stay running

 

interesting.. where the ID injectors brand new?