as a couple of my other threads have said my friend and i are working on a carbed 13b swap. I plan to have this engine rev into the 10-11k range. Are the stock igniters/coils able to handle this kind of RPM? what do they max out at?

 

carbed 13b swap? so are you keeping the stock ECU for ignition only or getting a seperate computer for the ignition.

 

i am actually going to go DLIDFIS but am using the stock coils and a 12a distributer to do so

 

Is this a built motor?
Or is he trying to do this just to prove the engine can rev that high?


-Ted

 

good luck. I use the stock ignition for spark on my carb setup. It runs good but alot of people on here say it makes the timing wrong by not having a tps signal. So.. i added tps and got some kind of tapping noise and disconnected and left it out. I was gonna do the dlidfis thing but my boys car goes through ignitors every few weeks with that setup and I cant afford to get stuck anywhere. I have a FC1000 on my car and Ive been wondering if you can split the Leading input like the DLIDFIS and use 2 FC1000s for each leading plug by using 2 coils instead of the stock one. I think you should try the stock ignition after the carb conversion and see if you like it. Mine has been like that for around 2 years with no problem other than some people saying my timing is wrong

 

its a built motor...carbed 13b with 91 rotors and carbon apex seals

i just wanted to make sure that the stock coil setup can hold up to the rpm before i decide to rewire for use with the DLIDFIS. I wont have an igniter problem since i am using the stock coil/igniter

 

And I assume you got a certified clutch / flywheel behind all of that?


You're running some big bucks parts but messing with stock OEM ignition stuff?
Why not go full MSD or something?


-Ted

 

+1, why go that far to stick with stock ignition? if its money savings thats not a good place to go cheap, nor is any place really when you have goals set like yours

 

Using the stock ecu wouldnt it be impossible to rev past what rpm the stock ecu sets the rev limiter at ?

 

i am not running the stock ecu...i am taking it out along with the entire wiring harness. I am trying to eliminate as much as possible.

And yes we have a lightened flywheel, heavy duty clutch, and hardened trans gears behind all of it so i am not too worried. Figure we will see how long the drive shaft and rear end hold up until we need a solution.

As far as MSD why spend the money on it when most everything i have seen has said the DLIDFIS method works just as well. I am not going to throw pointless money away when i can put it into the suspension and use what i have

 

Since you're using a 1st gen ignition, you really should ask the 1st gen people. I'll bet that going to a dizzy ignition will make noticable power loss.

The stock ignition is limited first by the computer, IMHO, as a personal observation of a few cars:

1) Spark breakup _can_ be pretty bad, especially under high boost and\or over 6800RPM.
2) I've seen it go away when the ECU was replaced with an aftermarket unit with adjustable dwell.

IMHO: MSD isnt worth it unless you're going CDI. (Then the Crane Cams unit seems to be the nice one for a decent price)

 

i'll probably go talk to the first gen guys then to see what they recomend. I just really dont want an expensive computer setup if all i need it to do is control spark. But then again i need something that is going to keep up with the engine spinning that fast

 

That's a really scary thing to say...
*sigh*


-Ted

 

there is no rev limiter on an FC, or if there is mine doesnt work.

 

just get a megasquirt to controle spark then you fool.

 

why complicate things...part of the reason we are going carb. I am putting mega squirt on my other car and going to have to deal with all the tuning involved there something i would like to avoid on the FC

 

only if you wanna shell out the $250 for the kit

 

i hate to be another guy not answering you questions but i hope you have hardened staionarys and stuff... you cant just rev any engine up that high

 

to tell you the truth i am not sure what exactly the engine has in it just got a killer deal on it with the trans and other stuff. The only thing i do know about the engine is what the previous owner was told it had and he didnt build it either

 

then be ready for anything after all your hard work

 

Because...
Ignition control is the most important point to engine control.
Ignition timing is even more important than fuel control.
Fuel can be a little off and still be okay.
If ignition timing is a little off, it could mean a blown motor.


-Ted

 

y would u wanna rev that high when it drops off around 8000rpm?

 

Yeah, I hope you have some serious port work to actually make power up there.

 

You definitely need to find out if the motor is ported to handle the extra airflow required to make power at ~11k rpms. The stock ports will have a noticeable power drop off at 7k rpms. I don't really hear of street ports making power that high either. There's no cheap solution to making power at ~11k rpms. You need the porting, the reinforcement and the tuning, even if you're running carb. Sorry to burst your "budget" dream.

If you're going to spend the money to make it run right, then at least switch to EFI. If you want to continue on the route that you're going on, I quote one of the previous posters, "Be ready for anything after all of your hard work."

 

the only way your gona make power to 11k+ is with a monster J port or a PP.
dont even bother if you dont as you just wasting you time. and will run out of puff at 8k.