Hey all I just got my RP pullies in the mail today. It looks like I am supposed to remove the "hub" for the stock pully. I guess its 19mm socket time I also got the alt pully along with the main pully. My impact wrench is going to have fun tonight. Other than hold the clutch pedal down while I remove the nut and replace the pully what should I watch out for?


Santiago

 

NOOOOOO what ever you do!!! do not remove that 19mm nut unless you have done it b4, you can remove the stock pully front the hub by removing those 4 10mm bolts, it won't just slid off the hub its gonna need some coaxing

 

edit

The pully that I got doesn't look like the stock pully when you remove it. It has an integrated hub on it non-removable either. Thats why I think I need to remove the 19mm nut to take off the part that is left AFTER you remove the stock pully by form of the 4 10mm bolts.

 

Lol, that was a disaster narrowly avoided.

Steve

P.S. BlackRX7, why is your seven white?

 

http://rx7.com/cgi-local/2catalog.cgi?cat=3&part=1


check them out. look at the pic on that page. It isn't just the outer part like the stock one. I have removed the stock pully before. But this one doesn't separate from the middle section.

 

Okay I understand now, looks like you have the right idea, just make sure not to jerk the engine around with the 19mm nut off, personally I have taken my front cover off 3 or 4 times with the motor still in the car... so just beaware, and if it starts acting funny afterwards, messed up idle, low on power, then you know the problem.

I like to throw people off, I reserved that name about 4 years ago when I got my first rx7 a Black GTU that was back when this site was still a fun small rotary community, never changed it becasue it is so original

 

Read it, know it, love it....

http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm

 

your going to underdrive your alt by 35%? that seems a bit much to me

 

Yea I am going to use it with an FD alt. Max my friend has it on his FD alt(he had it machined) and 15% UD is ok. I will probably try out the main pully first. If that still holds voltage ok I will try the alt pully. If it is too much for it then I will use the alt pully on my N/a and the main pully on the TII.

 

You shoulda asked... I have an RP main pully sitting on my shelf that I could have made you a good deal on.

Not trying to hijack your thread but if anyone else reads this and wants it, PM me.

-Chris

 

I payed 60 for the pair shipped. Can you top that?

 

Sure I could have... I'd have done the pair for less than that, but I only have the main pulley left at this point...

-Chris

 

I laugh when I hear this ****. If you upgrade the alternator, and then underdrive it, you end up right back where you started! Simple maths.

Why do you even think you need these pulleys? Is a reduction in cooling and charging capacity worth a few hp?

 

Lets see: This is going to be mainly a track car that sees high rpms often. running high rpms is how I blew my first and second alternators. The regulators messed up after redlining. Underdriving it will make it less likely to mess up my regulator. I am using the FD alt because I will roughly end up with the same power as the stock alternator AND less drag on the engine. Do you get that? I don't run a huge stereo system and for that matter ANY radio. The car won't have a heater or AC. The only things electrical will be the engine systems and the stock lights on the car. The reason I bought my FD alt in the fisrt place was because it is cheaper than buying a new FC alt. The extra amperage is just a bonus.


Santiago

 

It's pretty obvious that you don't. Do you think that extra output comes for free? The higher the alternator's output, the harder it is to turn and the more power it draws from the engine. So if you underdrive an upgraded alternator you're going to end up with the same power as the stock alternator and the same drag on the engine, i.e. no change from stock. Do you get that?

If you want to run that combo, that's cool. Just don't kid yourself that it's better than it is.