I just saw this on teamfc3s.org so I will post it here

http://www.royalpurple.com/techa/faqsa.html#re0

It is a Rotary FAQ at Royal Purples website. It has good info on uding synthetics, and their 2 stroke (they even include suggestions for bridgeport and periphrial port)

Might be old news, but I tried.

 

nice try.

royal purple is not worth the extra money IMHO.

 

TOTAL BULLSHIT.
I've seen Amsoil 20W50 cause significant deposits flanking the spark plugs holes.
This causes the apex seal to chatter - markings are obvious.
I dunno why Royal Purple would make such a blanket statement.
I've talked to David Canitz personally, as he was on the old RX-7 mailing list years ago, and I find him a very compotent technician.


-Ted

 

Ted, I'm curious to your statement on Amsoil. I've been using Amsoil Series 2000 20W-50 for the last several thousand miles (exact mileage I have to check). I have not pulled the plugs to check for deposits yet, but I have ran with Royal Purple Racing 51 for the past 10,000 miles with no ill-effects.

If what you said is true, I would certainly like to check it out. Please let me know what I should look for.

 

Stamp

 

Well, thanks for clearing that up. I would figure a corporation such as Royal Purple might do a little research and developement. But I know who to listen to, and I wont take chances, thanks.

 

This is not a farking oil website. I don't know how many times I gotta say this. If you have an oil question go to www.bobistheoilguy.com where you'll get real oil experst to chime and offer advice and answer questions.

Based on used oil analysis Royal Purple oils have a tendency to shear and as a result, lose viscosity the longer it is left in your engine. I personally would not use it since there are better synthetics out there.

I'm still thinking that dino oil is the say to with with a rotary. All of Mobil 1's oils have an ash content between 1.3-1.5% which is about 75% greater than Castrol 20w-50 oils.

If you really insist on a synthetic oil, the new low SAPs oils from Europe are incredible. I just dumped 4 liters of ELF Solaris LLX 5W30 into another vehicle and has increased my fuel economy by 7% over using 5W-40 previously. This new oil can really stand up to the abuse of high revving engines and has a very low ash content. Bad news is that it is 11 bucks a liter.
http://www.turbofrogperformance.com/...isLLX5W301.pdf

Elf's ELF Excellium 10W50 is not a shabby oil either and will be put into my Vert next summer when weather warms up again.

 

ELF is one of the best posible oils to purchas out there. Come to think about it ELF is used in F1.

I stand by RL, MOTUL, ELF, RP.

 

Iceblue,

Yep, redline and motul are pretty awesome too and have gotten very many favorable used oil analyis in real life usage. For some odd reason, some engines seem to tear royal purple and shear it down to a lower viscosity. Given this occurence (not in all engines), I would take my chances with another oil.

BTW, I'm a Castrol 20w-50 naysayer but have 20W-50 in my vert right now. I haven't noticed any difference with this oil over my previous 10w-40. Fuel economy is not statistically different so I'll leave it in for a while until I decide to go with the ELF 10w-50. Oh, SAP stands for (low) sulfer, ash, and phosphorus oil.

 

royal purple is same price as mobil 1.

besides...don't get hung up on which brand to use, there are more important things you should worry about. Every rotary owner should send in their spent oil for analysis at least once a year. It's only $20/analysis and it will tell you a whole lot more about the condition of your engine than your mechanic can ever tell you.

 

You can do this? How and where???

 

www.Blackstone-Labs.com

 

if money is not an issue use Amsoil>redline>royal purple>elf>motul. Don't question my response, just do it and relax.. I personally know racers that use the first three and you know how it goes.. and I ain't gonna explain it...harhar

 

Try and get in touch with boosted1205 and ask him for the details.
This happened quite a while ago, and some of it is hazy.
I'll try and remember as much as I can...

boosted1205 bought an FC turbo that had under 30,000 miles on it.
Yes, thirty thousand miles.
He quickly switched to Amsoil 20W50.
Going with the Racing Beat 3" full exhaust, he blew the motor like most newbies did.
The car had around an additional 10,000 miles when it blew.
Upon tear-down of the engine, there was significant deposits flanking the spark plug holes.
Now, these "ears" are typical of most 13B's, but his were a LOT larger.
Most of the time, you can cover each "ear" with your thumb; we could not cover these deposits with our thumbs!
IME, they were at least twice the area of what other 13B's I've seen taken apart - we're talking motors with 100,000+ miles versus this virtually brand new engine!
The only explanation is the Amsoil 20W50.

In theory, synths have higher flash points, so it's possible the larger deposits was the Amsoil not being to burn away totally.
There were chatter marks on these deposits, so we knew the apex seals did not like running over them!

I really don't understand the hang-up on synths.
Running a good, quality, name-brand mineral oil is perfectly fine when you stick to a strict oil change schedule.
I've never seen a 13B that had oil lubrication problems that was using a good, name-brand mineral oil.
I've used mineral oil (first Castrol GTX 20W50 and now Shell Rotella-T 15W40) in my engine, and there were no signs of oil lubrication problems anywhere, even though this motor was running with low oil pressure at one time!
I think synths is a waste of money for most of the street, daily driven FC's out there.
Synths don't give you any real advantage, and it just sucks money out of your wallet.

I really don't recommend running synths with the stock oil injection unless the manufacturer EXPLICITLY states it's okay to do so - i.e. Royal Purple.


-Ted

 

On that note, engine oils are marketed much like otc drugs. Whatever is left over from brand name production, generic brands get it.