a round of name that part
02-09-05, 08:18 PM
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a round of name that part
Whats the part right behind the passenger headlight. below the stock airbox. Looks like it has a shield of some sort then under is a box with many ribs on it. Could this piece be causing a weak spark?
02-09-05, 09:25 PM
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WHAT!!!! you still have your stock airbox! lol ... get that changed... even something cheap is better then that, noticable driving difference when you get that changed, when i did it i noticed my ride felt alot smoother 
spend the 20 bucks its well worth it
spend the 20 bucks its well worth it
02-09-05, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by astrochild7
thats the fuel system resister relay... piece of ****...
And BTW, stock airbox is long gone, it was just for a referance point.
02-10-05, 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by astrochild7
thats the fuel system resister relay... piece of ****...
lol, isn't that so the injectors can work? as in they are high impedence or whatever and the resistor pack changes it so that the ecu can use them?
Why is it a piece of ****?
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02-10-05, 01:49 AM
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He has an 86 NA, so it's not the fuel pump resistor/relay, it's the resistor for the low-impedance injectors.
All 86-87.5 FC's had the injector resisitor; S4 Turbos and all S5's and the fuel pump resistor/relay. Neither of these things is a piece of ****...
All 86-87.5 FC's had the injector resisitor; S4 Turbos and all S5's and the fuel pump resistor/relay. Neither of these things is a piece of ****...
02-10-05, 01:51 AM
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02-10-05, 11:50 PM
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Your user name has GXL, your profile says GXL, and your posts say nothing about the car (until now). How are we supposed to provide you with the right info when the info you provide us is wrong or non-existant?
A faultly resistor/relay will not cause low power or poor driveability.
A faultly resistor/relay will not cause low power or poor driveability.
02-11-05, 02:57 PM
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sorry for not posting the car, i thought that all of the fc's might have this part. But I'm still searching for the answer as to why my car is running terrible. I checked the injectors with a noid light, getting voltage, I assumed maybe low voltage so I hooked up the voltmeter and am reading 7 volts getting to each primary injector. and each injector reads right at 2.1 ohms resistance. Could this be a really weak spark and just a hell of a lot of misfires. I already replaced the leading coil and ignitor and nothing ran differently. tested the trailing coil's resistance's and both check out to be ok. I cleaned up my spark plugs already, so I am thinking now that it may be just my spark plug wires, but what gets me is that this driveability happened all at once. I swapped the injector o-rings since mine were leaking a little bit, then when I go to fire it up, it's like this. What do you think?
02-11-05, 05:29 PM
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The seven volts sounds odd if your at a idle speed and even worse if the key is to ON and the engine is not running. They should read battery voltage with the key ON and the engine off and not much less with the car idling.
I'd double check that volt meter someway. If it's a true reading, I'd check the battery voltage and if that is way above 7vdc, then I'd pull the plug off the solenoid resistor package and check the incoming voltage to the solenoid resistor package. If that does not compare favorably with the battery voltage I'd check the output of the main relay to the solenoid resistor. If that does not pan out, I'd go buy a XK-8 and be done with it.
I'd double check that volt meter someway. If it's a true reading, I'd check the battery voltage and if that is way above 7vdc, then I'd pull the plug off the solenoid resistor package and check the incoming voltage to the solenoid resistor package. If that does not compare favorably with the battery voltage I'd check the output of the main relay to the solenoid resistor. If that does not pan out, I'd go buy a XK-8 and be done with it.
02-11-05, 05:54 PM
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It was during engine cranking, it read 2 volts while the key was in the ON position. Voltmeter is good, read 12.4 at the battery and 14.6 with the car idling. How would I check votage to the injectors with the car idling?
02-11-05, 08:24 PM
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By backprobing the wires at the ECU (with the plug connected to the ECU). I assumed that was what you were doing.
The voltage for the injectors does not come FROM the ECU but FROM the Main Relay to the solenoid resistor then the injectors then to the ECU which then puts a GROUND on the circuit for a milisecond or so, all depending upon how hard your pushing the pedal and load.
At idle you'll get a voltage drop to about 11vdc ( Primarys). Step on the pedal and the voltage drop will be greater and if driving under a high load, it will drop down as low a five or so volts til the secondarys come online.
The voltage for the injectors does not come FROM the ECU but FROM the Main Relay to the solenoid resistor then the injectors then to the ECU which then puts a GROUND on the circuit for a milisecond or so, all depending upon how hard your pushing the pedal and load.
At idle you'll get a voltage drop to about 11vdc ( Primarys). Step on the pedal and the voltage drop will be greater and if driving under a high load, it will drop down as low a five or so volts til the secondarys come online.
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