I am rebuilding my engine now, bad compression in the rear rotor. I am probally goign to get some hardend stationary gears. I am going to auto-x the car and pounce some ricers, I have a 89GXL BTW. Now I was looking into race rotors, I like high rpm's Now in auto-x ing I am goign to be "reving it up" and beating on the car good, but I want to keep the engine in one piece. This is why I am looking into getting the stationary gears. Now I was looking more into it. Should I get race rotors or will my stock ones with mazda factory race bearing suffice. Or do I need to do anything at all to it? I am confused on this one. Can anyone help me out. Also should I get anything else hardened while everything is apart? Clearanceing???

 

use your stock S5 rotors and get the Type 2 stat gears.. while rebuilding try and give yourself some more clearence.. that should be good.. the race rotors are a waste of money that could be spent elsewhere..

 

Any recomendations on rebuild kits? Also will this increase my redline any, or will it just give me more protection up there?

 

The stock apex seals are the best seals out there.

Do you still want to borrow the FS electrical diagrams? I got your message, but I did not check my mailbox until a few days later.

 

i would say just keep it safer up there.. i would think 9,000 is a nice number to be around.. no need for higher unless you are gonna do a big port while your in there..

i would say stick to a medium sized street port and it should be good to go and the rebuild it is up to you there all pretty much the same unless you dish out the money for the Ianteii seals or however you spell it

Tyler

 

ianteii seals?? never heard of them...ill never buy them but i atleast want to check them out....what are they made of, how expensive are they?any links?

 

[I think I am goign with atkins for the seals and racing beat for the gears thanks guys. Can I mildly port a 6-port engine? Guy at racing beat told me it wasnt worth trying...

 

This is a very detailed question. So my initial answer is going to be a question so I can narrow down the options that are floating around in my head. This is going to be a street driven Auto-X car? What class are you running or do you want to be in? Are you going to run the stock fuel injection system with the stock CPU? Or are you going stand alone, carbs, etc? Do you have to deal with smog/emissions, or do you have a “hook up”? These questions should limit what you need to buy for parts (minus the standard rebuild stuff).

- Dana

 

Street/auto most likely. I dont want to do a race port or anything like that. Something mild if I could do anything(porting wise) . I was told that really the onlything that is going to make any difference is a big port on the 6-port engines. I probally want to stay in stock class. Although STX or EP would not be out of the question. I dont really have to worry about emissions, this is why prepared class was an option. I would perfer stock for now, till I get used to the car. I dont have any real plans with the engine as of yet in terms of building it up but would liek to make it faster.

 

O as far as building up the engine, im not sure of all my options either so thats why im not sure what I want to do. I am going to need to rebuild the engine so I wanted to get stuff in there done right and do crap I might want to do later. I dont want to tear it apart again!

 

If you do any porting you no longer qualify for the stock class. But with that aside for a moment. If you don’t plan on doing a large/aggressive port then there is no need for those parts. Those parts are needed for motors with a very high redline. With a stock or even street port you will not be pulling enough air into the motor to breath up that high. Here is a good little thought I wrote up a while ago: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=153873 it is a little ways down the page.

 

I was thinking of useing them more as a safety net type deal. Now the 13b 6-port engines already have hardended stationary gears, would I need typeII from racing beat? Are they stronger? Jim, I believe, was also who I talked to when I called. I was talking about keeping the engine in high rpms in 1st or 2nd and said the stationary gears would help with reliability as far as not rounding them off. Atkins told me I dont need them the s5 engines already have them....

 

Lets look at the facts.
- The Type II gears are meant to keep from bending/warping under extreme load, 8,500-9,000 RPM’s and above for extended periods of time. When my N/A motor was still in the GTUs I would only hear the buzzer twice on most SCCA Auto-X tracks. Plus the S5 gears are already hardened from factory.

- The Super race rotors are 1lb lighter, the gear is snapped ringed, and balanced. The snapped ringed gear again is there for safety just like the Type II gears. The lighter and balanced rotors would be the advantage, but are they worth the ton of money you would spend on them?

I know Jim would agree with me that if you don’t need to spend the money you shouldn’t. Spend it on something else to make the over all package better. For example go Microtech stand alone EMS, light weight flywheel and new clutch, rebuild or even upgrade your transmission, change to 4.30 GTUs gears and a Kazz LSD, the list goes on.

S5 motors are pretty stout from the factory. In my opinion you should do a standard street port, full rebuild kit, new needle bearings, oil pump chain, thermal pellet, Webber jet mod, etc. You could even ad some TII rotor housings, and a TII intermediate housing for a little bigger of a port. Have fun, spend the cash to make the whole package sweet , not just the motor.

- Dana “If it aint’ broken don’t fix it”

 

Sweet deal, ill preobally do a search on the TII housing idea. Been a lot of help, nice to know I dont need to spend money on things I dont need!