Rotor bearing install
#1
resU deretsigeR
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Yep
Posts: 681
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rotor bearing install
Okay, a good friend of mine works at a place with an INSANE shop. (they build jet engines here) He can either press them in, or he can use the heat/cold process.
He's wondering if anyone knows what temps to use if he was to freeze the bearings and heat up the rotors?
Or would it just be better to press in the bearings?
He's wondering if anyone knows what temps to use if he was to freeze the bearings and heat up the rotors?
Or would it just be better to press in the bearings?
#4
What Subscription?
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Aiken SC USA
Posts: 5,926
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I personally use an arbor press instead of a hydraulic press; It gives me better control. I heat the rotor to 350ºF and place the bearing in the shop freezer for a couple hours prior to pressing them in.
#6
resU deretsigeR
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Yep
Posts: 681
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
He got the bearing out of rotor #1. It had apparently be spun quite a bit. He peformed a dimensional on it, and it's worn 0.002". Now, we're down to 3 options, the 1st 2 being free to me.
1. Epoxy the bearing in.
2. Grind it to clean it up. Chrome plate it, and re-grind it to spec...then put the bearing in.
3. Buy another rotor.
Anyone run into this? Or am I the main guy with the bad luck...
1. Epoxy the bearing in.
2. Grind it to clean it up. Chrome plate it, and re-grind it to spec...then put the bearing in.
3. Buy another rotor.
Anyone run into this? Or am I the main guy with the bad luck...
Trending Topics
#8
resU deretsigeR
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Yep
Posts: 681
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So, these guys are essentially just going to "have fun" with my rotor. Here are the before pics...The after pics will probably be coming sometime next week.
Bearing:
The damage caused by the spun bearing:
They're going to chrome plate and regrind to get rid of all of the scoring inside of the rotor...and to bring it back to spec. Something tells me this will be the 1st and only time someone goes this far to save a rotor.
Bearing:
The damage caused by the spun bearing:
They're going to chrome plate and regrind to get rid of all of the scoring inside of the rotor...and to bring it back to spec. Something tells me this will be the 1st and only time someone goes this far to save a rotor.
#9
resU deretsigeR
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Yep
Posts: 681
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just so you guys can see what we're doing, I'll keep this thread going.
Here's where they put it in the chrome tank to coat in inside of the rotor to build it up. They'll be machining it down today to get rid of all of the rough areas. I'll get pics up of that, along with the finished product soon.
Here's where they put it in the chrome tank to coat in inside of the rotor to build it up. They'll be machining it down today to get rid of all of the rough areas. I'll get pics up of that, along with the finished product soon.
#14
Red Pill Dealer
iTrader: (10)
How did you guys mask the areas you did not want to plate? Nice idea BTW.
#15
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 108 Likes
on
91 Posts
Originally Posted by Noel Caraballo
all that trouble id rather get a new rotor
#16
resU deretsigeR
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Yep
Posts: 681
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, this sucks...they forgot to take pictures after they machined it back down to spec. They just pressed the bearing back in.
To "mask" off all of the areas that didn't need chrome, they dipped the entire rotor in wax and put a real thick coat of it on there....then cleaned off the area that needed chrome.
As far as a "good idea", I wouldn't go that far...beacause of the time spent, this is no where near a cost effective way to go.
The rotor sat in the chrome tank for damn near 2 full days....and the rotor did NOT wanna take the chrome....so they re-nickeled it, and put it in the chrome tank and really put the amperage to it. It took that time.
Here's the final finished product. They glass beaded it to clean it up real nice, and to get all of the wax outta the really fine lines for the side seals, and whatnot. Looks good. I'll be putting everything back together, hopefully, this weekend.
Sorry for the crappy quality picture...it was done with my phone. You really can't hardly even make out the chrome in the picture.
To "mask" off all of the areas that didn't need chrome, they dipped the entire rotor in wax and put a real thick coat of it on there....then cleaned off the area that needed chrome.
As far as a "good idea", I wouldn't go that far...beacause of the time spent, this is no where near a cost effective way to go.
The rotor sat in the chrome tank for damn near 2 full days....and the rotor did NOT wanna take the chrome....so they re-nickeled it, and put it in the chrome tank and really put the amperage to it. It took that time.
Here's the final finished product. They glass beaded it to clean it up real nice, and to get all of the wax outta the really fine lines for the side seals, and whatnot. Looks good. I'll be putting everything back together, hopefully, this weekend.
Sorry for the crappy quality picture...it was done with my phone. You really can't hardly even make out the chrome in the picture.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
25
07-01-23 04:40 PM