I am seriously considering rebuilding my 90 JDM Turbo engine. I have the Mazda shop manual from an 89 RX7. Are there any differences at all between the American, Canadian and Japanises engines in terms of rebuilding. Or are the differences between these engines only related to emission laws ?

And has anyone ever rebuilt their own rotary engine using Atkins rotary rebuild DVD and or Atkins Rotary Master Rebuild kit ?

 

Only difference as far as I know is how the fuel rails face on a JDM.

 

there is a few small differences like how the brake booster line hooks to the manifold since JDM engines are LHD and the rotor housings have slightly different spark plug timing so you have to be careful when replacing the rotor housings.

as ^ said, the fuel flows through the secondary rail first and then through the primary rail but iirc the positioning of the fuel inlet/outlet hoses is the same.

 

And that's it you guys are shure there's nothing else. Like compression ratios are the same, installation is the same, etc.

Also has anyone rebuilt their own rotary with Atkins Rotary rebuild kit and or DVD.

 

first video i watched was the Atkins one, though it just gives you the basics and i mainly use their parts in my rebuilds.

yes the compression ratios are the same, the only differences are minor ones.

 

just make sure you match the rotating assembly parts. rotors and counterweights.

are turbo lower intake manifolds different between s4/s5 as the n/a's are? if so, consider the intake manifold set you'll be using and match the irons accordingly. i had to do this when i built my s5 block and was using a s4 intake set.

 

Alright thanks guys. And what about in terms of cleaning the internal parts ? What's good for cleaning ? Brake cleaner, varsol, what's a good cleaning solvent ?

I heard that to clean and rebuild a rotor it has to be soaked into some kind of acid based chemical and stuff. I dont know exacly.

Also when a dead engine has 00 compression on the first rotor and 120 on the second. Should I replace only the rotor housing or also the intermediate housing ? How do I check for side seal wear ? And what's the limit ?

 

Berryman Chem-Dip is what I like to use for rotors. It's safe for bearings, and you can get it at your local auto parts store.

 

or if you don't feel like springing for a full can of chem dip, you can just brush parts in one pan with carb cleaner, spray them off in another and fine clean them in a last pan.

 

Remember, keep any serious chemicals off the rotor bearings and main bearings unless you plan on replacing them...

The Bruce T. video from Rotary Aviation is worlds better then the Atkins video. Also, I have a thread in the Archives which covers engine assembly...