The rotary Gods have struck...
The rotary Gods have struck...
Hi...
A few of you might remember me, I was the one asking for help on installing a new door a day or 2 ago. Well...guess what happened? I got the new door on, but now my car won't start?
The thing would crank and crank and crank but it won't start. At first the check light came on, but after switching off and on a few times ALL the lights came on, with the exception of the seat belt and airbag light, which goes off after a second or 2.
Anybody has any idea what the problem is? I am a newbie, and I did search but I couldn't find any similar cases.
Thanks for your help!!!!
A few of you might remember me, I was the one asking for help on installing a new door a day or 2 ago. Well...guess what happened? I got the new door on, but now my car won't start?
The thing would crank and crank and crank but it won't start. At first the check light came on, but after switching off and on a few times ALL the lights came on, with the exception of the seat belt and airbag light, which goes off after a second or 2.
Anybody has any idea what the problem is? I am a newbie, and I did search but I couldn't find any similar cases.
Thanks for your help!!!!
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I wish I was driving!
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,241
Likes: 84
From: BC, Canada
Originally posted by Rotary Dawg
Where is the EGI fuse on a 1990 convertible?
Where is the EGI fuse on a 1990 convertible?
Sean
Anything over 10 seconds starts to burn out the starter....well from what i have learned, maybe so 2 indertvals. of like 8 seconds? I dunno scath is a pretty smart guy. So he probably knows best, try 10 seconds
If it's flooded, this will work:
Take out both upper spark plugs.. Squirt in a little (an ounce or two) of ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) or MMO (Marvel's Mystery Oil) into the plug holes. Put the plugs back in. Now try to start it up.
It may be a little hard to start, but the fluid in there will rebuild the compression that was lost from the flooding. The gasoline "washes away" the oil from the housings and apex seals, so you get no compression when you flood a rotary.
Doesn't matter if you wait a month, it will NOT unflood itself. Usually, the ole' fuse trick will unflood it. With the fuse out, no gasoline gets injected--only oil from the metering pump. This does essentially the same thing as the trick above, but on a smaller scale.
Note, this is a bit different from the "ATF Trick" you always hear people talking about. The goal of this procedure is NOT to clean your engine out--it is only to unflood it. You have to leave it in for at least 24 hours, and try to get it on all three rotor faces in order to do the clensing.
After unflooded, it's a good idea to change your spark plugs and oil...tho it will still be driveable.
Oh, and it will smoke like crazy when you start it...
-Tesla
Take out both upper spark plugs.. Squirt in a little (an ounce or two) of ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) or MMO (Marvel's Mystery Oil) into the plug holes. Put the plugs back in. Now try to start it up.
It may be a little hard to start, but the fluid in there will rebuild the compression that was lost from the flooding. The gasoline "washes away" the oil from the housings and apex seals, so you get no compression when you flood a rotary.
Doesn't matter if you wait a month, it will NOT unflood itself. Usually, the ole' fuse trick will unflood it. With the fuse out, no gasoline gets injected--only oil from the metering pump. This does essentially the same thing as the trick above, but on a smaller scale.
Note, this is a bit different from the "ATF Trick" you always hear people talking about. The goal of this procedure is NOT to clean your engine out--it is only to unflood it. You have to leave it in for at least 24 hours, and try to get it on all three rotor faces in order to do the clensing.
After unflooded, it's a good idea to change your spark plugs and oil...tho it will still be driveable.
Oh, and it will smoke like crazy when you start it...

-Tesla
oh, yeah.. there are two main causes for flooding on the rotary. I bet you did (b)...prolly moved your car outside to put the door on, and turned it off cold..or something:
(a) Your injectors are old and leaking.. Running injector cleaner thru your gas tank may or may not have any effect on this. The "proper" solution is to pull your injectors and get them professionally cleaned. This costs ~25$ per injector, and of course, your car will be down for a few days while they're in the mail. A fuel cut switch is a temporary solution.
(b)Turning your car off cold. A bug in the 2nd gen rx7 computer confuses it when you turn it off while not warmed up...sometimes. When you try to start it (doesn't matter if it's 5 minutes later, or 5 months later), it still thinks it's in running-warmup mode, and injects a lot of gas--flooding it. just don't do it!
Instead, turn it off with a fuel cut switch when cold..
a search for "fuel cut switch" will tell you how to install one... takes like 5 minutes, and costs like 2 dollars. doubles as a security device.
-Tesla
(a) Your injectors are old and leaking.. Running injector cleaner thru your gas tank may or may not have any effect on this. The "proper" solution is to pull your injectors and get them professionally cleaned. This costs ~25$ per injector, and of course, your car will be down for a few days while they're in the mail. A fuel cut switch is a temporary solution.
(b)Turning your car off cold. A bug in the 2nd gen rx7 computer confuses it when you turn it off while not warmed up...sometimes. When you try to start it (doesn't matter if it's 5 minutes later, or 5 months later), it still thinks it's in running-warmup mode, and injects a lot of gas--flooding it. just don't do it!

Instead, turn it off with a fuel cut switch when cold..
a search for "fuel cut switch" will tell you how to install one... takes like 5 minutes, and costs like 2 dollars. doubles as a security device.

-Tesla
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