is it possible to make a middle of the road setup that can handle both road racing and drag racing?

the goal is to hit high 9's low 10's. in the 1/4 on a 150 shot.....

i also want to try out road racing so....

i dont want an extreme drag or extreme road racing set up...

so my question to you guys is.

what shocks, springs, coilovers, etc. swaybar, strut bars brakes, etc for the above setup...

Thanks

Chad

 

go take some driving class b4 u kill urself

 

uhhh i think high 9's is pretty extreme for a road racer... just that a car capable of doing that on the strip isnt going to handle well on the track imo

 

Do you see F1 cars competing with top fuelers?
Do you see top fuelers competing in F1?

....no


Could you build a car that handles like a F1 car but does a 1/4 in 4.5 sec?
Probably yes...
The ability to do so comes in the form of money.

 

wasn't there a 540 whp fc on here that didn't run below 10's yet? Of course he didn't have nitrous. And didn't volkswagen make a car that can drive on pavement then transform to a boat or something? That would be a cool project, floating X605. j/k

 

well....i guess my first post was expecting a bit much...obviously you cant have the best of both...

lemme rephrase the question.

i want to run at least a high 10 in the 1/4 which wont be to hard....but still maintain a good handling car.

i would say 90% street 5% 1/4 and 5% road racing if that makes sense....

i would rather have a better handling car then a faster 60ft....

so what are some good suspension brands for the compoents i listed? for my needs if there are any?

i hope thats more clear....

Thanks

Chad

 

I guess the point here is that the needs for drag suspension and circuit racing suspension are totally opposite.

10.xx in the 1/4 is very quick.
Power alone is not going to get you there..

If your not that serious about either aspect of motor racing keep the stock suspension and just change your tyres.. that'll save you alot of money until your serious about one or the other.

 

or just buy 2 cars and build one for each aspect...

 

i know this isnt the response you were looking for.. but i would bet its cheaper to do what cakalac karak said

 

I agree.

 

well i figured it sounded practical.. i have a monster upgraded S-10 4x4 and my FC. i didn't think it would be appropriate to have 33" tires on my FC with a blower sticking out of the hood.

 

How much experience do you have with Rotaries and even modifying cars?

 

Well the problem is really in the torque curves and the course layout, like my drag car does real well on long winding courses, but on a short tight course it just sucks ***.

 

Chad,

Get some really lightweight wheels and meaty slicks...this will be good for drag or road racing.

Upgrading the brakes, stiffening the springs (find the right balance for your driving style), and lowering the center of gravity will all help you get around the track, and probably not hurt your quarter mile times.

Like Sub9lulu said, taking driving classes is the most important thing you can do to lower your track times.

I can't imagine too much power hurting your lap times, as long as you find the most comfortable power band and stay there.

 

none when it comes to rotaries....reason im putting an ls1 and t-56 or A4 in there....

 

thanks....

ya i do plan on taking some driving classes....

thanks for the advice.

 

this fact alone will kill your track times.

a heavier V8 will offset the near perfect balance of the RX7, it would be a decent drag car but not so great of a tight course car.

 

On this subject, Hasport had a 450HP Civic that ran I beleive 11's (anyone correct me if I'm wrong), but when it came to doing lap times. It wasn't anything to special to check out. Just food for thought.

And Karak is right. RX-7's are built to accomodate the lighter engine, by moving in a larger and heavier engine its now thrown off making the car handle worse. Doesn't make alot of sense to do, does it?

 

87GTR's (Tony's old car) was set up for both road racing and drag racing. doing so will more just give you an awesome overall street-monster. god knows what class you'd be running with on a road course or on the quarter-mile, though. tony had stiff road racing suspension and a car that hit 11s (11.6 on slicks with just under 380whp i believe; never ran the car after it was ported more and given more boost (499whp); possibly a different turbo, too. i forget.). you just have to decide how you want the car setup. wheels and tires are easy to swap around whereas suspension takes more time and you have ways of changing specs. what size turbo and type of port you run may either favor drag or road course, or maybe compromise. and like i said, what you do to the car can put you in classes you may not want to be in if you're running competition.

 

the ls1 isnt a heavy v8....

check this out if you havnt seen it before.

http://www.hinsonsupercars.com

read the FAQ's.

 

i'm not one for dropping in a V8, but it wont always necessarily kill the car's handling. unless you have or know someone with firsthand experience and know all the variables, its hard to have an opinion. moreso, its a shot-in-the-dark guess. where/how the engine is located, the drivetrain, how heavy the engine is, etc, are all factors. rotaries are relatively light, but they're not feathers. hell, they're not even aluminum blocks and they have a lot of volume. do you know offhand the weight of a turbocharged rotary vs an all aluminum 350? do you know how each are mounted and how the car is affected? or do you just have a biased opinion towards the rotary and therefore everything rotary is okay?
i see more anti-v8 slander than i do anti-20b slander. why is this? anyone know how heavy a turbo 20b is and how much it affects front and rear and top to bottom weight? i guess its okay, though, because its a rotary.

 

i know about cars and engines, i have worked on them for 12 years... an LS1 is a heavy engine in relation to even a T2 rotary, the LS1 weighs a bit heavier than a turbo rotary even with smog components still on it. the car was built around the engine and has a near perfect balance ratio.

 

my longblock tII weighed in at 275 wet. The thing that changes is the v8 is generally mounted higher up raising the CoG., as for weight, it's been shown that sometimes it's as minimal as a 100-150lb increase.

 

running high tens on a street driven car is gonna be an interesting trick..

 

how so?

w/ a decent cam and bolt ons your putting down at 400ish to the wheels.


add a 150 shot and your at 550+ which would be good for 10's easy....main problem being traction.

and for the people who say the v8 will screw w/ the weight ratio...

How much will the car weigh?

The aluminum GM LS1 and LS6 engines are extremely light power plants. With the complete removal of the 13B and the sequential turbo assembly, the project car's final weight is less than the total gross vehicle weight of a stock Mazda RX7. The final weight of the car is listed below. The car weighed 2,831lbs with a full Touring interior, sunroof, complete Bose sound system including the "Sound Wave," and a 1/4 tank of gas.

LF: 746 RF: 677 Total Front: 1,423lbs
LR: 675 RR: 733 Total Rear: 1,408lbs

thats for an FD btw.

edit: and for an FC its even lighter.... since the curb weight is 2,626lbs stock...