revs up freely while in gear
revs up freely while in gear
basically as the title says. Only does it when its hot and doesn't do it very often. Car goes fine up until 4th and 5th gear but if you put your foot down the car will rev almost freely with very little acceleration but will climb up about 1.5 k then come back down and act fine.
I'm guessing a dieing tranny?
I'm guessing a dieing tranny?
no problem. i JUST got done doing this today. Took me over a month as i did a ton of other stuff while I was at it, but my clutch started slipping in 4th and 5th gear, when trying to pass people on the interstate and whatnot. lower gears its much easier to get up to speed, at higher gears you have to go harder on the throttle to accel and the clutch has more stress on it, or at least you can tell it has more stress on it cause the rpm's arent allowed to climb so fast, which is why you dont sense any slippage at low rpm's
I'm glad this got a good reply. I had to order the parts last week because mine was on its way out. :-( I belive that its recomended to replace the Pilot bearing and throw-out bearing too. but what do I know......
Try to go up a hill. My car would do the same thing when the clutch was going out.
It got to the point where I was afraid of hills because I wasn't sure if I could make it up.
I think the last time I went to Westbay Autoparts, a new stock clutch and PP was $129.
Way cheaper then going high perf. I got PP and disc for $300.
If you aren't a DIY person. Get ready for some insane labor charges.
While I was at it, I replaced the seals on the transmission. The rear one that the driveshaft goes into, and I think another one.
. Also, why not get a shift bushing kit while your at it? Not too expensive and will make the shifts more solid.
Yes, do replace pilot bearing and throwout. Use lots of lube on the throwout. White lithium I think is what I used. Packed it all over the inside of the bearing, where the ***** are.....
It got to the point where I was afraid of hills because I wasn't sure if I could make it up.

I think the last time I went to Westbay Autoparts, a new stock clutch and PP was $129.
Way cheaper then going high perf. I got PP and disc for $300.

If you aren't a DIY person. Get ready for some insane labor charges.
While I was at it, I replaced the seals on the transmission. The rear one that the driveshaft goes into, and I think another one.
. Also, why not get a shift bushing kit while your at it? Not too expensive and will make the shifts more solid.Yes, do replace pilot bearing and throwout. Use lots of lube on the throwout. White lithium I think is what I used. Packed it all over the inside of the bearing, where the ***** are.....
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Just an explicit reminder:
Dont just do the clutch, do the pressure plate, throwout bearing, and gland nut bearing (with seal) all at the same time. Also, now is a great time for the install of a lightweight flywheel (A mod I really reccomend)
If it's a street driven car, stick with a street clutch (Not pucked or unsprung).
Personally, I like the ACT street/strip clutch.
I've had friends that reccomend the Centerforce (Apparently it is more suseptable to preforming badly if broken in improperly)
- Jason
EDIT: Don't forget to read the FSM before you start the project, so you'll have a remote idea of what you are getting into. If you decide to do this project yourself, remember to torque everything down (especially the pressure plate retaining bolts) to the _proper_ torque spec, using the proper order (as described in the FSM).
Sometimes aftermarket parts will define a different torque spec, follow the aftermarket reccomendations in that case.
Dont just do the clutch, do the pressure plate, throwout bearing, and gland nut bearing (with seal) all at the same time. Also, now is a great time for the install of a lightweight flywheel (A mod I really reccomend)
If it's a street driven car, stick with a street clutch (Not pucked or unsprung).
Personally, I like the ACT street/strip clutch.
I've had friends that reccomend the Centerforce (Apparently it is more suseptable to preforming badly if broken in improperly)
- Jason
EDIT: Don't forget to read the FSM before you start the project, so you'll have a remote idea of what you are getting into. If you decide to do this project yourself, remember to torque everything down (especially the pressure plate retaining bolts) to the _proper_ torque spec, using the proper order (as described in the FSM).
Sometimes aftermarket parts will define a different torque spec, follow the aftermarket reccomendations in that case.
Last edited by Tofuball; Mar 7, 2007 at 08:06 AM. Reason: Added FSM comment
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