elfking

I have a 1988 Turbo II and it rev's very slow in comparison to my friends 87NA and I can't even bring it to Redline without the car bucking once or twice... (his car is definately pulling harder and faster then mine is right now.)

Im note entirely sure what detonation feels like but im thinking maybe thats what it is.

1. I wanted to check the voltage getting to the fuel pump, but theres caps on the wires so I can't get access to use a volt meter on them while its running. Is there another spot im missing? I replaced both filters, intank is mazda but inline is some cheapie brand. (could this be it??? I read some posts about mazda oem only...)

Also: Im thinking I might do the fuel pump rewire but id like to see the voltage first.. and see where thats at.

2. I drove the car to work today and when I parked and opened my door. Smoke came into the cabin. But no smoke was coming out the back. I look under the car and I see it coming off of the CAT. (it looks whiteish? but no smoke coming out the back) When I put the downpipe on last weekend the turbo blades were white, and when I moved them they seemed ok and didnt have any play in it....

3. I have an EGT gauge installed it crusing at 65 it sits at about 10 and when I try and boost to redline it will go up to about 12-13. Picture of the gauge im talking about:

The EGT probe is installed in the middle of the bonez downpipe I installed.

4. I have a muffler with a pretty good size hole in it, im not sure if that would cause it to rev slow or buck like that, but I wanted to mention it. (passanger side muffler, one of the sidewalls gave out once i put the downpipe in.)

5. I was thinking it might be the injectors are dirty. I replaced the pulse dampaner but made the mistake of not sending in the injectors to be cleaned.

6. My alternator is having troubles keeping up at night, im trying to get a custom alternator from a guy but he's taking a while. In the day I get 13.5v to 13.9 and at night its usually 13v and if I hit the brakes it drops to 12.6v (lowest ive seen it) until im done with the brakes. Maybe that has something to do with it also.... (Im thinking about just getting the FD alternator that silverrotor has going...)

Things ive replaced/done:
Full tune up. New plugs, wires, coolent, oil, diff fluid, trans fluid, ps fluid, belts, timing and tps are set perfectly. New vac lines, new pulse dampaner, new injector o-rings. New coolant hoses. New air filter. Bonez Downpipe, Bonez superflo cat. New transmissions mount, shifter bushings...
New fuel filters. (in tank and inline) Car idles pereftly at 750.

If anyone can contribute to any of these questions that would be great. Thanks for all the help.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Hows your boost acting? It could be that your turbo's on it's last leg. Also check the pressure sensor to make sure it's not leaking air and that it still has the restrictor pill in the end nearest the manifold.

elfking

Now that you mention it my boost with my manual boost gauge tapped at the boost sensor. Foot to the floor boost only reaches 5psi. Ive since removed this and hooked the boost sensor back up directly to the car Just in case.

I don't really know what you mean by a restrictor pill... Any pictures or can I find a pic in the FSM?

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

Check to see if your thermosensor is plugged up and making a good connection, also make sure it is still in good working order, I had very similar symptoms and it turned out that the plug wasn't making a good connection on the sensor and was giving inconsistant readings to the ecu causing abnormal fuel cut outs and "bucking" at various rpm's, as well as slow 3k+ acceleration. I sudjest making a code reader if your car is an 86-88 it will tell you exactly what is wrong. It is the green connector on the back of the coolant filler neck. Good luck.

trevor

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

I second that, the first thing to always do is check for codes. In the vacuum line if you pull it off, about an inch or two up from the end of it you should see a white dot, if you squeeze that area you should feel a hard plastic peice inside, (don't squeeze too hard, just gently squeeze the end then move up and you'll notice if you find it) Sometimes you can look up the end and see it. But do this after checking for errors.

elfking

Alright I will take a look, I thought the car wouldn't be throwing any codes at me unless the check engine light was on?

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

Did they have a check engine light in 88? i'm really not sure, my 87 doesn't, i thought they started that in 89 i may be wrong. I don't know much about the differences in the 2nd gen models, i could tell you what colors were availible on the 1st gens what years..lol, Anyways, someone chime in here and let him know.

elfking

Nope they don't I just ran outside (at work) to check. Sorry for the confusion. Ill definately make a checker and check....

elfking

Nope, I have no restricter pill in that vac line for the boost sensor, while outside checking for check engine light, I took off the line and looked. Normal vac line, nothing in there.

Where do I get this restrictor pill?

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

This is allegedly the part # from mazda: 8931-13-986

should be fairly cheap to buy, it can cause hesitations and other annoying nuances.

elfking

Ok and I take it that it is just the pill I am ordering or the whole vac line for the boost sensor? How would I get it in there, just shove it down the line?

Also it took me a little bit to locate a place on how to make the error checker for the 86-88 models I found a very good writeup here:
http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/main.html

Also a mirror is on RETed's page which is here:
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/ZERROR/zerror.html

I will make a checker and mount it in the dash tonight or tomorrow and try and figure out what is going on before its too late.

If anyone has any other tips/checks I should take a look at this weekend feel free to keep them coming...

Thanks for all the help.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

That's just for the pill, it's sold seperately. You have to install it in a specific direction, which I believe is etched on the side to indicate. You basically just push it up the hose about 1". The FSM should have some more information on the exact location.

elfking

Alright thank you so much for the help ill go out and get the part from mazda at lunch.

elfking

I made a checker, installed it to where my gauges are, I get no codes. The lights only come on for 3 seconds when you first turn it on. Then go out, sot thats checking out.

1. It didn't hesatate on me today during the day but it did at night, so I think it might be a voltage problem since my alternator is having troubles keeping up.

2. I have some smoke coming from the ouside of the downpipe I just installed it looks from around the spot from the lower gasket. Im thinking it may just be the gasket setting down.

3. It still revs slow, I might make a video of it, maybe its Normal for a TII, but my friends N/A rev's a hell of a lot faster.

Thanks for the help.... Ill see about that video.