In TonyTurboII's thread, you said that the timing being off could cause high-end hesitation or detonation. Recently, I added a whole new exhaust system from the manifold back, and reattached my auxillary port actuators (they're definitely working), and now when I hit 6000, the power seems to fall off almost altogether. It will still pull to 8000, but not nearly as hard as I thought it did before I got my new exhaust on there. Now I thought the new exhaust would give me more high-end power than low-end. Could it be my timing causing this?

It's an N/A, so I don't think it would be detonating, but the sound of the engine definitely changes at 6000 now, so maybe it is, but I really hope not.

If this is my timing, does it sound like it's too advanced or too retarded?

Everyone else is completely welcome to respond if you have an idea. All assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 

Just curious. What is your timing right now. To the book? On the marks?

 

That's a good question. It's wherever it was when I bought it about a year ago. I want to check and set it, but have not had the chance yet. Do you have any special tips for doing it? Do I need a certain kind of timing light?

So does my problem with my car sound timing related then? Thanks.

 

Try wiring the 6-ports open to see if that changes anything.
It could be possible that your 6-ports are not working properly.




-Ted

 

I tested the actuators before I re-installed them by hooking them up to a long hose and driving with the actuators inside the car beside me. I kept my finger on them to feel them work, so they are definitely working.

 

I've seen cases where the actuators themselves work perfectly fine, but does it work under actual running conditions?

You can try the grease trick, where you dab some grease (or something similar), drive around all the way to redline, and check to see if the actuators actually slid and opened.

You should be able to just rev the motor up the redline and see the actuators move under the hood though...



-Ted

 

So you're saying the actual sleeves could be stuck then?

I don't think the grease trick works on 89-91 because they slide out not pull in. Also, I don't think they'll open without load so I can't just look in the hood. Should I remove the sleeves and grease them up? Is this difficult? How would I do it? Thanks.

 

yea the sleeves are probably stuck, on my 86, dead engine now , they were stuck, my power would die at 6800rpms, i took apart the intake manifold and the sleeves were caked in carbon and stuck, so i just removed them completely and ran with them out of the engine. that sounds like the problem, also its an 89-91?? check to see if the VDI is working right also, shouldnt cause that much of a problem with power but its worth checking out

 

I don't know if Kevin Spoul is still on this forum, but we ran into his 6-ports not working on his GTUs.&nbsp The ports would actually slide, no problem, but due to some kinda malfunction they were not opening as designed.&nbsp I'm not too sure what he did to fix the problem, but I know he posted that he finally got everything fixed...

Sorry, I don't know NA's that well...




-Ted

 

Heya,



I wired my six ports open. Lost buttloads of low end, but gained it back up top. Pulls to the buzzer and beyond easily and eagerly. I think I have a vacuum leak to my ACV valve, or whatever provides the postive pressure to the actuators. So for now, I just have them nylon-tied open. Eventually I'll track down the vacuum leak and fix it, but not today! *grin*

Your friend at 8000rpm,


Kevin Sproul
1989 GTUs