00nothing

here it goes guys i may have finally gotten my first FC now heres the deal with it the car was parked for 2 years with 80000 km on a mazda reman and was running great and hasn't been cranked since what do i need to do first before i even try turning this thing over and what problems might i come across i know the first thing i have to do is get rid of any gas in the tank and give it new but what else can i do to hopefully help it out and oh yeah in case it matters 86 gxl

n4ji

iTrader: (1)

Whoa, take it easy on revving for a long while. Let it warm up before you atleast go over 4k rpms, then just take it out for a nice drive.

DC350

Yeah, i agree....

let it warm up... run the gas down... put in some new stuff, some injector cleaner....

then take it up to some 5k shifts... just have fun... should be good

DC350

btw: change the oil

scathcart

Is it just me or does Mephis post some of the most pointless, worthless garbage this sub-forum contains.
What the hell is stabli?


Here is exactly what to do:
- take out the lower spark plugs, and pour a capful of light oil(2-stroke oil would be a good, light oil) into the holes.
- Grab a 19mm socket, put it on the front pulley bolt, and turn it clockwise. Turn the engine over completely three times, and listen for 2 swooshes for every turn of the socket.
- If it has these swooshes, reinstall the plugs.
- Check the coolant hose just below the oil filter. When oil drips on this hose, it breaks down the rubber. This break-down takes time, and can happen easily when the car is started after having been sitting for a long time. If the hose is squishy and shiny where it enters the engine, replace it.
- Change the oil. Castrol GTX 10W30 is good here.
- Drain out the gas tank. There is a drain plug on the bottom of the gas tank.
- Add 4-5 gallons of gas from a jug. 86 octane is fine.
- Batteries don't like to sit, so grab a booster pack or some jumper cables.
- Turn the key to run. Go into the engine bay, and jumper the yellow connector on the passenger side shock tower with a bridge of wire. Leave the wire there for ~30 seconds. This is cycling the pump on and getting the old gas out of the fuel lines and fuel rails, and mixing this minute amount with the good gas.
- Remove the jumper.
- Start the engine.
- It might be hard to idle for the first 30 seconds, and will gush smoke, but should die down after a few minutes.
- Get out of the car and watch the engine, and check for leaks. Let the car idle until brought up to operating temperature.
-Go for a drive, around 20 minutes, keeping the car under 4000, then start to get on it. Rev the engine progressively higher, and for longer periods. This "Italian Tune-up" will attempt to burn out the carbon that has hardened around the seals during the period of the engine sitting.

If all goes to plan, do a complete tune-up: Brake fluid, clutch fluid, ethylene-glycol/water rad fluid change, diff fluid change, tranny fluid change, check battery electrolyte, replace spark plugs/spark plug wires, check operationg of thermowax, tighten any exhaust leaks, clean out throttle body, set idle, check timing.

88mazdarx7turbo

nicely said scathcart!

MtnRacer

Don't put 91 octane in it.

Steve

00nothing

thanx everyone for replying but scathcart thank you very much exactly the info i needed once i get my 7 home and running i'll be posting some pics its my first one and i'm really excited and i plan to do some interesting n/a mods that I havn't seen anyone with yet

$150FC

nice writeup scathcart

scathcart

Let us know if any of the stages give you problems.

asherwood

Hey Sean any additional tips for starting a rebuilt engine for the first time?

I thought I read somewhere that you pull one of the fuses and crank it over a few seconds at a time to circulate engine oil throughout the engine before starting it...

Thanks!

My88Se

iTrader: (10)

Your right, asherwood.

One a brand new rebuild, as in one that has NEVER been started, you pull the EGI fuse. I think its EGI INJ.

Pull that and crank the engine over for about 30 seconds or more. Never more than 10 seconds at a time though(you'll kill the starter)

The reason you must do this is to get all the oil, and gas, and coolant circulated through the engine. Your really looking to see if you get an oil pressure reading before you actually fire her up. Starting the engine when it is not being lubricated is a big no no.

scathcart

Can do. I normally prime the system manually when doing a rebuild, and there is no need to prime the syetm unless the oil lines have been removed.

Since you have a reman, simply prime the system as you describe above with the EGI fuse out, put the EGU fuse in, and start it. Mazda reman's already have starting lube in the combustion chambers.
It should start right up.

asherwood

Getting closer every day...

ditto

nice write-up