You know electrical is my strong spot, but I am thinking twice after the kid unloaded on Ted. You better say your sorry, for mouthing off like that, not sorry for (as you say) he was trying to help you and you were a jerk.

If you are still having the problem:

seventhgear Your description of the problem sucks, yes you need to be clearer... when you say all the electronics stay on, exactly what electronics?

Then you say the idiot lights stay on? is it just the idiot lights and the chime? or is it the cluster and the idiot lights? or the logicon/climate control? Or the radio? the dome lights? exactly what; down to the littlist detail.

And if I understood you, they turn off or work normal when the key is in the ACC position or the ON position or crank or what?

 

Sorry, I lost track of this post yesterday. It seems Sonic Rat has it figured to a point. Thats one reason I asked about the idiot light cluster. What turns them on is on the whole, a relay in the CPU that senses no output from the aternator. Lack of an output, puts a ground on a relay that in turn sends a signal to turn the idiot lights on. Not unless the key is on though. Its like the key switch is'nt going to full off, like Sonic says. Maybe later. Off to work we go now. Oh yeah, now what were the other lights besides the idiot light cluster, that stayed to the on position??

EDIT: Say, what happens if you disconnect the plug from the CPU? Everything ok then? This might give us a clue, especially if you can describe one of the other lights that stay on.

 

ok my idiot lights on the clock console thing are all lit up and the shift up light stays on also umm.. the a/c light above the button for a/c is on because it is pushed in but other than that nothing else is on ...
but i am having trouble with turning the car on .. might that have any relation to the prob at hand? it just clicks everytime until i get lucky and it finally turns over but ill try the ecu thing right now brb

 

ohh and the chime stays on with the idiot lights and the other thing i mentioned in the previous post when i put the room fuse in . but after like 5 to 10 seconds it cuts off.. well hope that helps and like i said Ted im sorry i was being an idiot !

 

The problem description in this post has changed dramatically from its beginning.

Your ignition switch is screwed.

Get another one and place your lock cylinder in the replacement.

You need to obtain the electro-mechanical part that the harness is attached to.

I have not replaced one myself, so i dont know the assembly, but thats your problem.

If what you describe is correct, then this has been your problem all along.

 

im trying to find the part in the fsm for where the ignition switch is and how to install and remove.. please can someone hyperlink it for me im in the process of lookin gright now n e thing will be appreciated
jack

 

i unplugged the cpu and then placed the fuse in the room fuse spot and all the idiot lights did not turn on n e more like they did only ebrake light whic it was engaged and the a/c light both being in the on position
this is all with the key not in

 

I think Sonic Rat is right about the ignition switch. The relay in the CPU thats called ALT WARNING LIGHT RELAY(in the cpu), is what causes the shift light and idiot lights to come on. For this relay to work, you need 12v from the ignition switch. If you'll look at your fuse box, count from the bottom and count up to the third row. Pull the third fuse over from your left. Does the light go out??? An apology here. I don't have a fuse cover so I don't know if this is the ROOM fuse you refer to. Anyway, if this fuse is pulled and the lights go out, then the ignition switch is bad or not to the off position.


Need to know if you have a digital volt meter??? Simple cheap 20buck one will do.

ICEMARK can step in anytime he wants. I'm tired and gotta get up real early tomorrow.

 

Sniper X - you have the patience of a saint, seventh gear - you are a lucky man and you owe somebody something somewhere! I can relate to your impatience and anger - be cool and remember no one owes you anything!

 

ah man you were doing just fine...

 

I DO NOT KNow what was goin on the other day wit me jus frustration and anger sorry to everyone i may have offended and especialy retd i think whom i went off on sorry i owe u forum members a great deal of apologies and thanks for the great support . yall do a great thing here
thanks again

 

im still not exactly sure where the switch is located... please help

 

yes agree with the general consensus so far, it sounds like a bad ignition switch, But...

On the series 4 it is pretty simple, the switch can be removed from the column without the key cyl. Looks like this:



Now the But... the thing that is throwing me a little is that the gauges are not powering up. If it really is the switch, (specificly the ignition 1 blu/wht) the gauges, Blower, back-up lights, all should be able to be turned on with the key not in the on position.

The no start could be caused from either a bad switch or the battery being low from everything being left on.

 

Its on the other side of where you put the key in.

Remove the lower steering column cover and you should see the wires. The plugs on a series 4 car are right at the base of where the column meets the dash.

 

i was in a bad mood guys, thanks for the cheer with that gay *** fight. BTW RETed won the fight.

 

AS LONG AS IM STILL ALIVE IM GOOD

 

On the internet, typing in capitals is the same as shouting. It’s really annoying and you sound like you getting stuck into someone. The kind of slang and abbreviations you use have no place on a technical forum like this one either. You might have noticed everyone just gets confused and/or annoyed! Your last few posts were much better.

On your problem, if you have the FSM (and you should) go to page 15-9 in the 88 FSM. If someone can post that page, please do!, it shows the ignition switch and all it’s plugs. I’m pretty sure the problem is related to the small 4-pin plug with its pins labelled K1, K2, L and E. Check the continuity between the pins as per the table.

 

sorry for the caps its just a habit and i type lookin at the key board so im really never looking
jack

 

Here are the pages out of the 87factory manual that show the checkout of the ignition switch. You would have to have a volt/ohm meter and disconnect the ignition switch harness's to ohm it out. Put the key in the ignition and ohm out to the table in the jpg that is attached.

ICEMARK has a good point. There's something odd going on here. Ted might have it right in his remark about the solder job on the CPU.

And an unrelated remark to NZCONVERTIBLE......I've got spare time today and I'm going to tap into my Port Air solenoid and go for a ride and see if the solenoid disengages when a load is put on the engine. I really like the schematics in the 87 manual over the other manuals, but the text in the 89 plus manuals is soooo much better. If I was right about the solenoid, you'll know right away. If I was wrong, welllllllllll, I'll let you know in my own good time, IF I don't forget about it.

OOPS. I forgot to post the jpg. Its on my next post below.

 

THE JPG I FORGOT:

 

I beleive it was Snipers comment about the solder job on the CPU, (ill ask next time i see him).

Unless this has changed too, 7thgear said this problem existed before the soldering of the cpu.

 

 

Sorry I did not give credit where credit was due. It was too tiresome to re-read this post from the beginning. If thats the case(problem exixted prior to soldering), then get a meter and ring out the wiring for the key switch. No meter? Buy a cheap Radio Shack one. No meter means you'll always be a victim when things happen to your car. Part swapping can be an expensive way to troubleshoot.

 

well thanks alot guys i appreciate it alot and will tell what happens
thanks again
jack

 

Hahaha, my guess was right then. Good luck