After staring to get into the engine bay and under the car, am I the only one who want's to strip it to the bone and paint EVERY SINGLE SURFACE?

Plus:

- replace every #@*~ 10mm bolt & nut
- replace the plastic push-screws
- repair every plastic inner-nose piece, quarter panel piece, etc..
- sand every little bit of rust
- clean every wire
- cover every exposed connector & wire
- replace all wire covers & vaccum lines with slicon ones
- replace every plastic harness manager in the engine
- repair every creak inside
- clean EVERYTHING
- polish & seal every exposed aluminum engine component
- polish & seal every brass & aluminum holder & clamp
- re-seal every faded plastic piece
- restich the hood's heat shield

any other ones you can think of?

BTW - FINALLY!!! figured out why the nose wasn't lineing up. The thin metal link between the lower corner panel & middle frame was twisted pulling the corner panel in - DOH.

I will say this - DON'T HIT A TRAINTRACK OR SPEEDBUMP at high speeds. I am still cussing out the previous owner for doing that. To repair it I've replaced supsension links, shocks, strut tops, replaced the fog lamps from salvage, unbent several thin body panel connectors, replaced the nose, etc..

I probably still need to replace the front shocks as NTB couldn't get the to line up 100%.

I wonder if this is causing the vibration in the steering wheel and at lower rpms?

 

When I changed the color of my convertible from red to cobalt blue pearl I stripped the car completely, except for the suspension. I'm glad that I did it.

 

The total-strip routine is standard procedure for an ITS car. I've watched the process unfold a couple of times at MazCare (Marietta, GA). Seems like the trick is to have enough space to keep all the parts nearby, and separated. Of course, in an ITS car, many of those parts aren't going back in.

Also, MazCare just restored a 'vert - I mean TOTAL restoration. Looks like it just rolled off the showroom floor. $25,000.

If we're honest, with a 12 year old car, we're nearing restoration age. We're already past it with the bushings, springs, paint, body trim, and some seals.

If you own a 10AE car, a total-strip is the only way to repaint - turns out the problem is bad primer, so everything has to come off, down to the metal.

L8r,
Steve C.

 

Well, that would esaplain a few tings......

Greg O.

 

Here's a good example of what you guys are talking about:

Check out http://www.mariahmotorsports.com/motorsports_eprod.htm for the rest of the pictures.

 

Well I figured out the corner panels ARE NOT!!! re-inforced.

Basically the front corners panels interlock for strength.

That means if you ever run over a curb all those "tin can strength" inner bodypanel connectors will bend like crazy. What REALLY sucks is you'll get "bends" at the stress points on the wheel well panels.

Ended up taking off the front side panel to discover the front side sub-frame was bent (no big woop, it just holds the bodypanels on). Just like with a soda-can, once it's bent it will never be as strong again. Maby I should re-inforce it somehow.

Well at least the plastic underpanel screw holes line up now that I straightened it (YEAH!!!!!)

Now I gotta drill out those screw's I broke out of the frame to get the engine scrach guard back on (it's 4' x 4').

13BAce,

I love that Mariah nose. No need for a "fresh air headlight scoop" when you've got one across the engine bumper

 

like this:




believe me, its a HUGE amount of work. I still have alot to go...

 

I saw it in person on a car that had the Mode 5 kit, and it looked very nice. What's also nice is that it bolts right in. You don't have to worry about a crappy fit.

 

its a huge abount of work to properly restore an fc, there are so many little things that need to be put back right and in a certain order

mike

 

Yep... golden used car Mazda rule, never buy a FC or FD with the front subframe damaged, or the front end not perfect because of an accident. No matter of work will it ever be straight again.