Ok guys im getting ready to reseal the oil pan... again. I did this last year with just a gasket. it didnt leak for like a week but it started leaking again and ive been to lazy to fix it. (last time took me 7 hours). Im trying to sell it this spring so i really want to make it look good for the auction block so to speak. So after some research heres what im going to do. I was going to use a gasket again but i was also going to use rtv sealer as well. Ive found that most of you use just rtv sealer so i want you input. should i use both or just rtv. If i use rtv how much should i use. I found a post that said not to be librial with it so my question is how how much is just enough. My other question is should i let it set before i put it back on the engine and for how long. i heard an hour but some people seem to just put it on right away. Along with letting it set before putting it on the engine, how long should i let it set once i bolt it back up before putting oil in it again. an hour? Plus should i us lock tight on the bolts. My proplem was that the botls came loose when i did it the first time. Someone told me i should use lock tight and another person told me that lock tight wasnt necessary. he said, "let the engine run untill it hit full operating temp then let it cool and retighten the bolts again."

Any advise or input on how i should go about this would be great. i want to do this right, the only problem with this car is that it bleeds oil right now. Thanks guys

PS should i use rtv on the sensor on the driver side of the pan.

 

I wouldn't let it sit. It needs to still be pliable when you put it on so that it can seal little imperfections. Apply it, and it will skin over a bit before you get it on, which is good, but an hour is too long IMO.

 

I have always put on RTV then quickly installed the part and only hand tightened the fasteners. Then I let it sit for 15-20 minutes to let it set up a bit then tighten the rest of the way.

 

From what I've heard from a very reliable engine builder, and I quote:

"Do not use just any RTV, use the bottle called 'The Right Stuff', the black kind, the 18 dollar stuff. I repeat, use only that kind.... once again, USE ONLY THAT KIND"

 

^^^its true. its the only kind i use.

 

thx for the info guys i get the right stuff. 18 dollars is worth not having to do this again.

 

Another good product I have had luck with is Honda bond. Its a sealant you can buy direct from a Honda dealer. I dont remember what the cost is though.

 

Honda bond is pretty pro. It's not that expensive. But yeah, i'd put the sealant on, and just hand tight it for 10-15 minutes. Then tighten all the way down.

 

This stuff is awesome.
We had a Permatex representative come to my vocational school to teach us how, when, and where to use their sealers/threadlockers and he said that for any kind of oil pan or other high clearance parts (diffs, trans, etc.) to use The Right Stuff.
I have used it multiple times myself and have found it to be superior to regular rtv's.
It is a thicker rtv that you apply (1/8") then put the pieces back together and torque down. no waiting for the rtv to "gloss over" only to have to wait again to torque the fasteners down.
Oh, and after you torque it down (Right Stuff) fill the crankcase and you are good to go, no waiting until it can be put back into service. (I am usually extra careful though and wait about 1 hour before I fill any fluid)
Hope this helps
-Pat

 

I agree with the right stuff, I have used it in probably 10 engine builds in the last 6 years, works great. Most of the rtv type sealants work well just need to follow the directions for each brand and type. Some require "skinning" to occur prior to assembly some dont. Anytime I need to seal anything that the gasket is easily available for I use right stuff. Cost is about the same as replacement gasket or two but you can usually get quite a few uses out of each bottle if stored properly. Another thing to be aware/careful of is our oil pans are mad of stamped steel and any prying to seperate from the engine block with bend or warp the pan usually more than what the "make-a-gasket" will be able to reliably fill and seal. Find a good straight edge (i use and aluminum yard stick cut down a little) and check for bends/gaps all the way around the pan and correct them with some gentle persuation, or purchase banzai racings oil pan brace (http://www.banzai-racing.com/) (click products, 2nd gen, oil pan brace). It re-squares the pan as you tighten.

 

hondabond costs about 12 bucks from the dealer, at least in new york. i prefer hondabond just because regular silicone just doesn't work consistently for me. the right stuff is ok.

 

my story: Did this 4 months ago with black rtv, installed let sit for hour and torqued. Began leaking after I drove it a few miles. I redid it last weekend with the "Right Stuff" and it does not seep at all. Granted its only been driven an hour but I think I would know if it was going to seep in the first hour of running.

 

I have to have my oil pan resealed as well. I read in a similar thread that adding washers and/or longer bolts may help keep the oil pan sealed better. Any truth to that? If so, about how long are the stock bolts?

 

http://www.banzai-racing.com/product..._pan_brace.htm

 

Do you recommend thread locker on the studs?

 

Honda Bond

 

Mine leaks like hell too. I'm only getting 30psi under load.

Changing or resealing must be a pita. Wish i could do it without pulling the engine.

 

The engine does not need to be pulled to reseal the pan.

 

Ultra Grey RTV is also good. I sealed my oil pan, and to take it off required a good bit of effort.

 

Really? Do you have any tips? I was about to purchase the brace kit for the stock oil pan, but taking out the engine is out of the question at the moment.

 

Drain the oil. Hold the engine up by jacking up the trans, so that you can remove the motor mounts. Unbolt the pan. Clean all the surfaces. Then follow the instructions for resealing and installation of the brace and pan.

You should really look under your car so you can see just how easy it is. If you do not have basic hand tools and a jack with jack stands then do not attempt this.

 

In addition to the above, I found it necessary to unbolt the exhaust so I could raise the engine high enough to get good access to the bolts at the front of the pan.
Not really a big deal.

I used Hondabond BTW, and it worked great.

 

wow jacking the engine up via the trans is a great idea. last time i used an engine hoist to hold the motor. Thx everyone the information on resealing the oil pan now i can go into this again with alittle bit more confidences. im going to try the right stuff and ill let you know what happens.

Andrew

 

it is also alot easier if you remove the clutch fan shroud and fan. Give a little more room and alot more light

 

I've installed the banzai oil pan brace without removing the engine. It totally do-able, but a bit harder than doing it with the engine out. Get them guns ready to work!