replacing Oil Injectors and lines
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adiabaticly inefficient
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: nw houston,TX or w. hollywood,CA
replacing Oil Injectors and lines
how difficult is it to swap out oil injectors and lines,mine were burned in a engine fire.will there be residual pressure in the lines? is there anything else i should look into replacing while im in the area?
thanx
aaron
thanx
aaron
WTB S5 N/A FC
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,778
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From: College Station, Tx
Get a Haynes manual, or the factory service manual at www.fc3s.org. As I understand it the injectors require you to get to the middle (dynamic) intake manifold. The lines also need the TB and upper mani off to get to I beleive. Shouldn't be too bad. ANd if you have to pull the manifolds, might as well port them for some free horses while you have em off
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 74
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From: Lincoln, NE
OMP lines are not hard to replace. I did it at the same time I was adding pineapple sleeves. I pulled the fan and air pump to get better access to the OMP, but that may not be necessary.
There shouldn't be any oil pressure. The only fluid I lost was the oil aready in the lines when disconnected from the OMP.
As long as you are that deep into the intake, I would replace the following:
1. All vacuum lines. The rubber in the existing ones is probably hard, and may not seal well when reconnected. Any vacuum leaks down here will drive you crazy, and may require pulling the manifold again to fix. Replaced mine with silicone & tie wrap, but there are other alternatives if you do a search.
2. Pull your fuel injectors and send them to RC Engineering to be cleaned and balanced. Cost is about $100. and they will service them in one day. Results are well worth it. They will come with new o-rings on top, but you need to get the insulators (fat o-rings) that mount at the bottom of the injectors. You should replace these even if you don't get the injectors serviced.
3. Primary fuel rail with pulsation damper attached. (89-91 N/A, don't know about s4 or turbo). Probably what caused the fire in the first place. But if not, don't leave that 10 year old time-bomb PD in your car.
4. Rubber Fuel lines from the firewall forward.
5. Any and all gaskets that are exposed during disassembely. Cheap, and not worth the trouble trying to reuse them. Remember to get the copper gaskets for the oil line fittings and the copper plate where the lines attach to the OMP. (may be overkill, but I never reuse seals or gaskets that aren't specifically designed for it.)
I view all of these items as good preventive maintenance. As long as you are this deep into the intake, it is all exposed and there won't be a better time.
I would spend quite a bit of time inspecting any parts of the wiring harness in the vicinity of the fire. Even if not burned through, the wires and insulation could be very brittle from the heat. I would run new wiring and connectors for anything that looked overheated, and continuity checks on EVERYTHING.
Again, some of this is overkill. But cutting corners may cost you considerably more time if you need to tear it all apart again to fix something that you skipped.
Good Luck
There shouldn't be any oil pressure. The only fluid I lost was the oil aready in the lines when disconnected from the OMP.
As long as you are that deep into the intake, I would replace the following:
1. All vacuum lines. The rubber in the existing ones is probably hard, and may not seal well when reconnected. Any vacuum leaks down here will drive you crazy, and may require pulling the manifold again to fix. Replaced mine with silicone & tie wrap, but there are other alternatives if you do a search.
2. Pull your fuel injectors and send them to RC Engineering to be cleaned and balanced. Cost is about $100. and they will service them in one day. Results are well worth it. They will come with new o-rings on top, but you need to get the insulators (fat o-rings) that mount at the bottom of the injectors. You should replace these even if you don't get the injectors serviced.
3. Primary fuel rail with pulsation damper attached. (89-91 N/A, don't know about s4 or turbo). Probably what caused the fire in the first place. But if not, don't leave that 10 year old time-bomb PD in your car.
4. Rubber Fuel lines from the firewall forward.
5. Any and all gaskets that are exposed during disassembely. Cheap, and not worth the trouble trying to reuse them. Remember to get the copper gaskets for the oil line fittings and the copper plate where the lines attach to the OMP. (may be overkill, but I never reuse seals or gaskets that aren't specifically designed for it.)
I view all of these items as good preventive maintenance. As long as you are this deep into the intake, it is all exposed and there won't be a better time.
I would spend quite a bit of time inspecting any parts of the wiring harness in the vicinity of the fire. Even if not burned through, the wires and insulation could be very brittle from the heat. I would run new wiring and connectors for anything that looked overheated, and continuity checks on EVERYTHING.
Again, some of this is overkill. But cutting corners may cost you considerably more time if you need to tear it all apart again to fix something that you skipped.
Good Luck
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