Osirus9

iTrader: (10)

So here is what I've got installed already:

Delrin Motor Mounts
Delrin Trans mounts

And here is what's sitting on my table ready to get installed:

HyperFlex Master Kit, as seen HERE
Delrin rear differential mounts
mazda competition front differential mount
pinion snubber (pinion snubber mod)

My question is... Is that everything? I don't want to get my car all taken apart only to find out I forgot something and then wait a week while it arrives. Any other work that should get done while the subframe is out?

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

might as well get new ball joints and tie rod ends if you havent already

Osirus9

iTrader: (10)

ok, add those to the list since I have no idea the last time those ever got changed...

Delrin Motor Mounts
Delrin Trans mounts
Energy Suspension HyperFlex Master Kit
Delrin rear differential mounts
mazda competition front differential mount
pinion snubber (pinion snubber mod)
Tie rod ends
Ball Joints

I was looking around and I saw subframe mounts as well, do those need to be replaced too?

Rx-7fetish

If your taking the whole thing apart why not go ahead and replace EVERYTHING, I would just for piece of mind, so everything wears evenly.

Osirus9

iTrader: (10)

That's what I'm trying to do

That's why I made this thread...

do you see something I left out?

also, I'm looking around online for ball joints and tie rod ends and what I'm finding confuses me...
The prices vary immensely and... retarded question but... I have 4 ball joints and 2 tie rods right?
Do I want to replace the inner or the outer tie rod? I want the Lower ball joints replaced right, and are all 4 ball joints the same? And... anybody know a site where I can get all that stuff for a good price?

Rx7Ridah

iTrader: (8)

Inner and outer tie rod ends, lower ball joints (2) are all you have. Hopefully you have a s4 (86-88) the ball joints bolt in then. Rockauto.com is a good place for replacement parts but consider not buying the cheapest possible because in my experience some of the really cheap stuff is just that cheap

Osirus9

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for the info. I'm slowly de-tardifying myself as I look up the parts on multiple websites.

Yes, I have an 87 Turbo, so the ball joints are replaceable

what I think I need is:

front left inner tie rod end
front right inner tie rod end
2x outer tie rod ends
2x front lower ball joints

I'm pretty sure that's right... But even at rockauto.com (very good website btw) all this stuff gets expensive very quickly. So I'm leaning towards not replacing the tie rods unless they actually need it. What's a sign of dead tie rods?
I will be ordering 2 new ball joints though, since I'm fairly certain mine have perished.

MIDNFauciUSN

iTrader: (8)

Same as ball joints... cracked boots, easy to pivot... etc.

fcs4manila

bump, this is a good thread. I might even do this myself.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

I would make sure that the bushings are set up for zerk lubing and would drill/tap for the fittings.
Plastic bushings can get real noisy, real fast and the ability to lube without disassembly is handy.

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

i would recommend OEM tie rod ends and ball joints. they are a little more expensive than others but the extra cost is worth the peace of mind IMO

HOZZMANRX7

iTrader: (43)

If it's just cracked boots but the pivot is still nice and tight, the Energy Suspension kit you gave link to has replacement boots. Always best to replace with new, but not always necesary.

Also, know that removing the rear pivot bushing is a PITA that can only be done with an impact chisel. You could get away with using the bushing from the kit, but many will advise you'd be better served replacing with bearings.

TonyD89

iTrader: (10)

Boots don't mean the end joints are bad but rather they will be shortly.

Play is the thing to look for in tie rods. Wiggle the wheel front to back with one side off the ground. Large play will be easy to see, slight wear, a little harder to see. You can grab around the outer joint with your hand to help feel the movement between the rod end and the knuckle.

You can kinda get the same feel grabbing the inner rod boot and either wiggling the wheel or having a friend wiggle the steering wheel. Have the back of your palm on the rack end and pinch through to the boot to the tie rod.



Or, you can wait for the alignment shop to tell you they"re bad.

Rx7Ridah

iTrader: (8)

also don't confuse the normal very minimal amount of play in your front wheel bearings with loose steering/ball joints. The type of bearings used in our vehicles will exhibit a very minor amount of free play when the weight if the car is off them. As others have stated, feeling the tie rods for give,as well as, observing them is best. Watch/feel for independent movement of the joints and their attached counterparts. Another trick I've learned on ball joints and tie rod ends (especially useful on non-rack and pinion types) is to use a large channel locks or oil filter pliers to squeeze the back of the joint and the end of the threaded bolt section to check.for.give on the cup and socket portion of the joint. If it squeezes in there's wear present.

Osirus9

iTrader: (10)

so with a bit more poking around on the internet I found that rockauto.com's prices are ridiculously cheaper than just about anywhere else I can find.
For the tie rods and ball joints, they sell a brand called Mevotech which is supposedly autozone/advance auto parts' in-house brand as well. This stuff is made in Canada and supposedly just as good as OEM so it looks legit to me.

Price for 2x ball joints, and both inner and outer tie rod ends from:
rockauto.com: $174.74
NAPA: $404.94
Autozone: $403.94

holy crap! less than half the cost?!
and yet, I can't find any horror stories about Mevotech... too good to be true?

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/projec...jun22010-2.htm
This page also has some helpful info in it about replacing suspension bushings, but unfortunately there wasn't a comprehensive list of the things replaced. As we all know, Aaron does things right and completely, so if there was a list of things to be done he would have it.

Thanks Rx7Ridah and TonyD89
I'll go and take a look at my tie rods and ball joints first before I go ordering replacements. What I'm getting from you is that you want to jack up the car and try to wiggle the wheel, and if it moves more than "normal" then the tie rods/ball joints are dead? what's "normal"
I'll also visually inspect them when I'm under there and see if the boots are torn or anything like that.

REAmemiya_fan

Try Raybestos, as soon as I have the money to do so, I'm completely redoing the ball joints/tie rods with their products. They look like they've been built and engineered with nothing but quality in mind.

AmT_T

iTrader: (11)

just an FYI with the hyperflex bushings, you will feel like your suspension is made out of bricks. you will feel everything just like the princess from "The Princess and the Pea" lol. I highly reccomend it, unless its your DD.

FC3S_nataku

iTrader: (3)

ok i was reading arrons sit from the link posted above. did anyone ever find if you can get the PS rack boots new? aaron said he couldnt find them anywhere

farberio

iTrader: (7)

+1, especially for the tie rod ends. They are, after all, what keeps your front wheels pointed the way you want them to be pointed.

HOZZMANRX7

iTrader: (43)

I got my replacement bellows from Autozone. They list as being only for the passenger side, but it fit drivers side just fine.

Duralast/Rack & Pinion Bellow

For your 1991 Mazda RX7 1.3L FI Turbo Rotary 0cyl
Price:$14.99


<SCRIPT type=text/javascript> function changeImage(filename) { document.getElementById("mainimage").src = filename + '2/'; document.getElementById("enlargedImage").value = filename; } </SCRIPT><INPUT id=enlargedImage value=http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/ksm/FA8046/image/ type=hidden>