2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Replaced relay in wiper switch, no change

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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 03:44 PM
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From: KCMO
Replaced relay in wiper switch, no change

I purchased and replaced a new relay for my windshield wiper, thinking that would solve my "Only works on low" problem, but there was absolutely no change.
It will only work on 1, mist, int, and 2 do nothing.
Though if I leave it on int, every great once in a while the wipers will move a little, usually only about halfway up the window.

Also, I have to be good with my timing, if I turn the wipers off, they will not return to down, they will stay wherever they are.

Any suggestions?
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 07:07 PM
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change the wiper motor,or better yet,check the wiper motor connector on the firewall.
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 08:09 PM
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I don't think its the motor. I have the exact same symptoms, and i put in a new relay also. I haven't gotten around to doing any more troubleshooting on it yet, but i'm pretty sure its still a problem with the switch/relays.
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 09:05 PM
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Well, my 91 Vert is having the exact same issues with the wipers. I was going to attempt the relay swap but sounds like it might be something else then.

I plan to do some troubleshooting this weekend but it would be great to hear if anybody has had a solution to this issue.
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 09:09 PM
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My wipers will work on any settings, they just won't dock on their own. Makes INT pointless since they just move up 2 inches then stop. I always figured it was the relay, but if there's something else that could be wrong.....
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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 01:10 AM
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usually the relay is just a problem for the no ints/no fast switch problem. I redid the relay in one of mine and it just stayed the same. I said to hell with it and put in a different one.

Icemark could of fixed it but o well......(:
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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 11:55 AM
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From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
The motor is easy to check out.

Leave all plugs connected.

Go to the motor. Leave its plug on. Find the blue/white and blue/red wires. One at a time, put a ground on each of those wires. You can get a long piece of elec wire bare at each end. One end goes to a known gnd. There's one near the wiper motor. The other end of the new wire gets shoved up the backside of either the blue/white or the blue/red. When that is done with key to ON, the wipers should move, proving the motor is good.

That's basically all your wiper switch/relays do. Put a gnd on one of those two wires at the motor listed above.

Most likely the relay install got botched. It's a bit difficult to desolder a old realy and not ruin the traces or more likely the socket where a pin of the relay enters the board.

Instead of accidenlty screwing up the board, one could leave the old relay in place. Then get a brand new relay and attach six small gauge wires to each pin on that new relay. The OTHER end of those six wires get soldered to the board opposite where the old relay is located. You solder the new wires to match the pins on the old relay. Now you've got one old relay and one new relay in the circuit attached to the board at the same location, but the board should not have been ruined doing it this way. The new relay will have wires several inches long so you can stow the new relay wherever you want behind the cluster facing/wherever place.

It's for those of us who are not real great at desoldering and don't wanna buy a new/rebuilt wiper switch and this takes much less time and SKILL.
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 04:03 PM
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From: KCMO
I'm pretty sure the board wasn't damaged. I don't actually know much about schematics, but I've been soldering for 14 years, none of the pads came up, and the board has no physical damage.

I will check the motor, but I will say this.

I had a white 89 gtu that I wrecked, then bought this shell.

There was no dash, so this is the same wiper switch from the GTU, and both cars experienced the same issue, but I suppose a wiper motor is common enough to fail.

Anybody who has had issues with the motor itself care to speak up? Are these symptoms similar to what you experienced? Did replacing the motor resolve?
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Old May 1, 2010 | 07:38 PM
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I repair and sell these things left and right... Give me a ring, Jerry, and we can have a look-see at the switch.
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Old May 2, 2010 | 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by st1llet0
I'm pretty sure the board wasn't damaged. I don't actually know much about schematics, but I've been soldering for 14 years, none of the pads came up, and the board has no physical damage.
Even if the pads don't appear to come off, there is still a tiny copper tube that runs from the pads on the board to the opposite side (on 4 of the 6 pins). if this comes out, then there is no continuity to the trace on the underside. Check continuity on the locations in this thread. if there's no continuity, you can try a jumper wire. I was able to get two switches going that were still bad after relay replacement...

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...t=relay+jumper
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 05:43 PM
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I apologize to the OP if I hijacked this thread. When replacing the park relay one of the copper inserts may have come out of the board causing you to lose the auto-park. Take a look at this thread for an easy fix:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/wiper-switch-rebuild-disaster-833548/
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