Replace Wheel Bearings after Installing Rotors/Pads?
Replace Wheel Bearings after Installing Rotors/Pads?
Hey guys,
For this summer i will have completed all the purchases for my complete suspension/braking upgrade. I have currently purchased the following items, but are not installed:
Hawk Front and Rear HP Brake Pads
Powerslot Rotors (Coming Soon)
KYB AGX's
Eibach Springs
KYB Dust Boots (All 4)
Tociko Strut Mounts (All 4)
Energy Suspension Complete Bushing kit
Stuff Already installed
Greddy Strut Bar
Falken Ziex 512 Tires 205/60-15







My question is that after i get my powerslot rotors, i will install everything at once, which was always my original plan. So if im going to have the rotors taken off why not replace the wheel bearings while im in there. What do you guys think.
Thanks
Jason NYC
NYRA President
www.nyrotary.com
For this summer i will have completed all the purchases for my complete suspension/braking upgrade. I have currently purchased the following items, but are not installed:
Hawk Front and Rear HP Brake Pads
Powerslot Rotors (Coming Soon)
KYB AGX's
Eibach Springs
KYB Dust Boots (All 4)
Tociko Strut Mounts (All 4)
Energy Suspension Complete Bushing kit
Stuff Already installed
Greddy Strut Bar
Falken Ziex 512 Tires 205/60-15







My question is that after i get my powerslot rotors, i will install everything at once, which was always my original plan. So if im going to have the rotors taken off why not replace the wheel bearings while im in there. What do you guys think.
Thanks
Jason NYC
NYRA President
www.nyrotary.com
The wheel bearing are a pain in the *** to replace.
Good stuff though. I love the AGX shocks. I'm going with those and RB springs. Hawk pads are good, I have used EBC before, VERY dusty!!
Good stuff though. I love the AGX shocks. I'm going with those and RB springs. Hawk pads are good, I have used EBC before, VERY dusty!!
I havent had a problem with the tie rod ends or ball joints. I just figured the wheel bearings are old and might need to be replaced. IF thats my logical statement then i guess everything on the car is fair game. Thanks for the input
LOL
Jason NYC
LOL
Jason NYC
Similar suspension setup to me. Haha.
USUALLY the wheel bearings are toast, as no one repacks them regularly :P
Some people just tighten the nut on it a bit and call it a day.
I reccomend checking your outer tie rods.
USUALLY the wheel bearings are toast, as no one repacks them regularly :P
Some people just tighten the nut on it a bit and call it a day.
I reccomend checking your outer tie rods.
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Originally Posted by Tofuball
Well, it's kind of difficult to explain, but they're quite easy to test.
If you can move them by hand, they're usually toast :P
If you can move them by hand, they're usually toast :P
Grab it, and move it around. If they feel loose they're usually shot.
James
PS: Let me know if you need a hand with any of that stuff over the summer.
Originally Posted by Pinfield357
front wheel bearings are simple to install the rears can be a little more difficult
And I'll make sure the pool is ready for ya, Jay. And the beers.

James
Prothane has a polyurethane tie rod end bushing that replaces the usually shredded stock rubber bit, or a total suspension kit that includes these for less than $80 from Summit.
Sorry, just noticed you had the Energy Suspension kit - did it not come with new tie rod end bushings?
Sorry, just noticed you had the Energy Suspension kit - did it not come with new tie rod end bushings?
Originally Posted by spot_skater
I replaced my rears. Wound up having to take off the entire knuckle on one side cause the inner race was seized on. A torch and chisels had to be used to blast it off. PITA!
And I'll make sure the pool is ready for ya, Jay. And the beers.
James
And I'll make sure the pool is ready for ya, Jay. And the beers.

James
I've always taken the entire carrier off.....don't know that theres any other way considering the bearing is pressed in
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