Replace '91 NA brakes with TII brakes
Replace '91 NA brakes with TII brakes
I spent some time looking for this and found nothing so I see a lot of guys use stock turbo brakes for drifting and I was curious will the turbo brakes fit on my 1991 NA with out any conversion kits or fabrication? If not what will I need to do?
^^^^ HAHAHA. there is no fabrication needed they literally just bolt into place. you don't even have to get new bolts. you will need to bleed them and make sure you have them mounted with the bleeder nipple at the top of the caliper.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,837
Likes: 3,234
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
step 1 is to look at your car, as "turbo" brakes isn't completely correct. the turbo, gxl; or 91 Bpackage, convertible, and GTUs all got the same brake set. the base models got the single piston caliper set. so if you have the 4 piston brakes, job done!
if you do have the base model, single piston brakes, the upgrade is very easy. in the front they use the same rotor, so all you need is the caliper, and its little U shaped hard line, and pads, and then it bolts right on.
the rear uses a different rotor, so you need the vented rotor, and caliper, and pads. i think the brake hose is the same, although now would be the time to do stainless lines.
whatever wheels you have will still fit, FD front calipers will also work, as they are basically the same.
if you do have the base model, single piston brakes, the upgrade is very easy. in the front they use the same rotor, so all you need is the caliper, and its little U shaped hard line, and pads, and then it bolts right on.
the rear uses a different rotor, so you need the vented rotor, and caliper, and pads. i think the brake hose is the same, although now would be the time to do stainless lines.
whatever wheels you have will still fit, FD front calipers will also work, as they are basically the same.
step 1 is to look at your car, as "turbo" brakes isn't completely correct. the turbo, gxl; or 91 Bpackage, convertible, and GTUs all got the same brake set. the base models got the single piston caliper set. so if you have the 4 piston brakes, job done!
if you do have the base model, single piston brakes, the upgrade is very easy. in the front they use the same rotor, so all you need is the caliper, and its little U shaped hard line, and pads, and then it bolts right on.
the rear uses a different rotor, so you need the vented rotor, and caliper, and pads. i think the brake hose is the same, although now would be the time to do stainless lines.
whatever wheels you have will still fit, FD front calipers will also work, as they are basically the same.
if you do have the base model, single piston brakes, the upgrade is very easy. in the front they use the same rotor, so all you need is the caliper, and its little U shaped hard line, and pads, and then it bolts right on.
the rear uses a different rotor, so you need the vented rotor, and caliper, and pads. i think the brake hose is the same, although now would be the time to do stainless lines.
whatever wheels you have will still fit, FD front calipers will also work, as they are basically the same.
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,614
Likes: 31
From: Freeland, MI
Replace '91 NA brakes with TII brakes
if it doesn't have a GXL GTU or GTUs sticker on it, you have a base model (unless its been resprayed or the brakes have already been changed over
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Depending on your wheels, you may be able to see enough of the front caliper to tell.
The 4-piston caliper ("turbo") will have two round lumps visible on the body with MAZDA cast in raised letters.
The single piston caliper will just look stupid.
This is a 4 piston caliper:

Conveniently not pictured, the two distinguishing features I mentioned.
Swapping the front calipers can defensibly be considered an upgrade (caveats to follow), the rears are a less clearcut decision. The only difference between the base and the turbo rear brakes is the turbo gets vented rotors. Thus, the caliper body is wider to accept the thicker rotor, but in all other respects, they're identical...same pads, same rebuild kits, etc.
If your base rear rotors are OK, you gain no performance swapping to the turbo rear set up.
Oddly, the vented rear rotors are much cheaper/easier to find, so if you are getting rotors, that would be the time to upgrade the back. Otherwise don't bother.
If you do swap from single to 4-piston fronts (here come the caveats), there are two things that must be done.
-Already mentioned is that there are minor differences in the soft/hard lines in the wheelwell.
There a number of options, it's not a big deal.
-Your base level brake booster/master cylinder will now be undersized, your brake pedal will be softer and travel further. Basically, just the opposite of what you're going for.
Again, there are options- the simplest (and least effective IMO) is to install the turbo model booster/MC. There are multiple other/better setups for the more adventurous/mechanically adept.
The 4-piston caliper ("turbo") will have two round lumps visible on the body with MAZDA cast in raised letters.
The single piston caliper will just look stupid.
This is a 4 piston caliper:

Conveniently not pictured, the two distinguishing features I mentioned.
Swapping the front calipers can defensibly be considered an upgrade (caveats to follow), the rears are a less clearcut decision. The only difference between the base and the turbo rear brakes is the turbo gets vented rotors. Thus, the caliper body is wider to accept the thicker rotor, but in all other respects, they're identical...same pads, same rebuild kits, etc.
If your base rear rotors are OK, you gain no performance swapping to the turbo rear set up.
Oddly, the vented rear rotors are much cheaper/easier to find, so if you are getting rotors, that would be the time to upgrade the back. Otherwise don't bother.
If you do swap from single to 4-piston fronts (here come the caveats), there are two things that must be done.
-Already mentioned is that there are minor differences in the soft/hard lines in the wheelwell.
There a number of options, it's not a big deal.
-Your base level brake booster/master cylinder will now be undersized, your brake pedal will be softer and travel further. Basically, just the opposite of what you're going for.
Again, there are options- the simplest (and least effective IMO) is to install the turbo model booster/MC. There are multiple other/better setups for the more adventurous/mechanically adept.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,837
Likes: 3,234
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
-Your base level brake booster/master cylinder will now be undersized, your brake pedal will be softer and travel further. Basically, just the opposite of what you're going for.
Again, there are options- the simplest (and least effective IMO) is to install the turbo model booster/MC. There are multiple other/better setups for the more adventurous/mechanically adept.
i think we decided there are 5 different ones?
the S5 turbo, uses a unique master, slightly larger piston, and the newer style mounting, so it has a different booster too.
S4 turbo uses an ABS master, but no AAS fitting.
the GXL uses a master with the AAS brake pressure fitting, but no ABS.
there is an AAS and ABS master, which is S4 GXL w/abs, as its the only car with both.
and then every other FC uses the same master.
there is actually a 6th one for the JDM FC's which have a non abs version of the S5 T2 master, as ABS didn't come in the GTR or GTX trim levels
Last edited by j9fd3s; May 29, 2015 at 10:24 AM.
holy monkey ... i was planning to make thread soon on my brake "issues".
meaning, there are 2 different calipers (parts-wise) for the 5-lug cars?
do you have a photo of the hard line that you and J9fd3s referenced?
do you have a photo of the hard line that you and J9fd3s referenced?
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,837
Likes: 3,234
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,837
Likes: 3,234
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
i just looked in the JDM parts catalog, and those were all 4 piston, so you might consider that standard, and then we got a downgrade in the US
well, i guess i was kinda hoping to hear that there were 3 calipers then. damn. looks like i will have to make a thread after all. thanks, J9.
Depending on your wheels, you may be able to see enough of the front caliper to tell.
The 4-piston caliper ("turbo") will have two round lumps visible on the body with MAZDA cast in raised letters.
The single piston caliper will just look stupid.
This is a 4 piston caliper:

Conveniently not pictured, the two distinguishing features I mentioned.
Swapping the front calipers can defensibly be considered an upgrade (caveats to follow), the rears are a less clearcut decision. The only difference between the base and the turbo rear brakes is the turbo gets vented rotors. Thus, the caliper body is wider to accept the thicker rotor, but in all other respects, they're identical...same pads, same rebuild kits, etc.
If your base rear rotors are OK, you gain no performance swapping to the turbo rear set up.
Oddly, the vented rear rotors are much cheaper/easier to find, so if you are getting rotors, that would be the time to upgrade the back. Otherwise don't bother.
If you do swap from single to 4-piston fronts (here come the caveats), there are two things that must be done.
-Already mentioned is that there are minor differences in the soft/hard lines in the wheelwell.
There a number of options, it's not a big deal.
-Your base level brake booster/master cylinder will now be undersized, your brake pedal will be softer and travel further. Basically, just the opposite of what you're going for.
Again, there are options- the simplest (and least effective IMO) is to install the turbo model booster/MC. There are multiple other/better setups for the more adventurous/mechanically adept.
The 4-piston caliper ("turbo") will have two round lumps visible on the body with MAZDA cast in raised letters.
The single piston caliper will just look stupid.
This is a 4 piston caliper:

Conveniently not pictured, the two distinguishing features I mentioned.
Swapping the front calipers can defensibly be considered an upgrade (caveats to follow), the rears are a less clearcut decision. The only difference between the base and the turbo rear brakes is the turbo gets vented rotors. Thus, the caliper body is wider to accept the thicker rotor, but in all other respects, they're identical...same pads, same rebuild kits, etc.
If your base rear rotors are OK, you gain no performance swapping to the turbo rear set up.
Oddly, the vented rear rotors are much cheaper/easier to find, so if you are getting rotors, that would be the time to upgrade the back. Otherwise don't bother.
If you do swap from single to 4-piston fronts (here come the caveats), there are two things that must be done.
-Already mentioned is that there are minor differences in the soft/hard lines in the wheelwell.
There a number of options, it's not a big deal.
-Your base level brake booster/master cylinder will now be undersized, your brake pedal will be softer and travel further. Basically, just the opposite of what you're going for.
Again, there are options- the simplest (and least effective IMO) is to install the turbo model booster/MC. There are multiple other/better setups for the more adventurous/mechanically adept.
Last edited by Xepez; Jul 19, 2015 at 11:35 AM.
Depending on your wheels, you may be able to see enough of the front caliper to tell.
The 4-piston caliper ("turbo") will have two round lumps visible on the body with MAZDA cast in raised letters.
The single piston caliper will just look stupid.
This is a 4 piston caliper:

Conveniently not pictured, the two distinguishing features I mentioned.
Swapping the front calipers can defensibly be considered an upgrade (caveats to follow), the rears are a less clearcut decision. The only difference between the base and the turbo rear brakes is the turbo gets vented rotors. Thus, the caliper body is wider to accept the thicker rotor, but in all other respects, they're identical...same pads, same rebuild kits, etc.
If your base rear rotors are OK, you gain no performance swapping to the turbo rear set up.
Oddly, the vented rear rotors are much cheaper/easier to find, so if you are getting rotors, that would be the time to upgrade the back. Otherwise don't bother.
If you do swap from single to 4-piston fronts (here come the caveats), there are two things that must be done.
-Already mentioned is that there are minor differences in the soft/hard lines in the wheelwell.
There a number of options, it's not a big deal.
-Your base level brake booster/master cylinder will now be undersized, your brake pedal will be softer and travel further. Basically, just the opposite of what you're going for.
Again, there are options- the simplest (and least effective IMO) is to install the turbo model booster/MC. There are multiple other/better setups for the more adventurous/mechanically adept.
The 4-piston caliper ("turbo") will have two round lumps visible on the body with MAZDA cast in raised letters.
The single piston caliper will just look stupid.
This is a 4 piston caliper:

Conveniently not pictured, the two distinguishing features I mentioned.
Swapping the front calipers can defensibly be considered an upgrade (caveats to follow), the rears are a less clearcut decision. The only difference between the base and the turbo rear brakes is the turbo gets vented rotors. Thus, the caliper body is wider to accept the thicker rotor, but in all other respects, they're identical...same pads, same rebuild kits, etc.
If your base rear rotors are OK, you gain no performance swapping to the turbo rear set up.
Oddly, the vented rear rotors are much cheaper/easier to find, so if you are getting rotors, that would be the time to upgrade the back. Otherwise don't bother.
If you do swap from single to 4-piston fronts (here come the caveats), there are two things that must be done.
-Already mentioned is that there are minor differences in the soft/hard lines in the wheelwell.
There a number of options, it's not a big deal.
-Your base level brake booster/master cylinder will now be undersized, your brake pedal will be softer and travel further. Basically, just the opposite of what you're going for.
Again, there are options- the simplest (and least effective IMO) is to install the turbo model booster/MC. There are multiple other/better setups for the more adventurous/mechanically adept.
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